ASTM A193/A193M B7M All Threaded Stud Bolts
Alloy steel bolting for pressure vessels, valves, flanges, and fittings for high temperature or high pressure service, or other special purpose applications.
Standard: IFI-136, ASME B16.5, DIN976
Inch Size: 1/4”-4” with various lengths
Metric Size: M6-M100 with various lengths
Other Available Grade:
ASTM A193/A193M B7, B7M, B16 B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2,
ASTM A320/A320M L7, L7M, L43, B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2, and so on.
Finish: Plain, Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, Zinc Nickel Plated, Cadmium Plated, PTFE etc.
Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet
Advantage: High Quality and Strict Quality Control, Competitive Price,Timely Delivery; Technical Support, Supply Test Reports
Please feel free to contact us for more details.
rahhidemustang@gmail.com for all inquiries
This 1965 Mustang Fastback is a ground-up (“frame off” if there were a frame) nut and bolt restoration that was completed in 2015. It started out life as a C-code with and fourspeed, but more power and reliability is now on tap. It’s barely broken in at 3800 miles and is powered by a fox body 5.0 H.O. EFI mated to a Tremec 5-speed manual transmission. No trades.
1965 Ford Mustang C-Code Fastback
Bead blasted bare-shell, ground-up restoration, no bolt left untouched
Truck Bed liner coated underside and interior
Grade-8 Armorcoat hardware on critical underbody fasteners
15×7 American Racing Torque Thrust-Ds with 6061 machined center caps
4-wheel disc brakes
SN95 disc/disc master cylinder
Adjustable proportioning valve
4 piston Kelsey Hayes calipers in front
SN95 rear calipers and discs with custom CNC machined 1020 steel caliper mounts
8-inch Currie Trac Lok 3rd member with 3.80 gears
Calvert Racing CalTrac Bars
1-1/8 inch front sway bar
Shelby drop front upper control arm relocation
3.5 inch Aluminum driveshaft, balanced and loaded with Spicer U-joints
T5 World Class 5 speed manual transmission
RAM HDX 10.5 in clutch
Custom hydraulic clutch master and slave
Custom mandrel-bent steel shock tower brace
Fox body EFI 5.0
ARP hardware throughout
Air Flow Research 165 Aluminum Heads – CNC ported intake, exhaust & chambers, A356 aluminum castings
8mm Bead Lock Intake Valve, 1.900″ x 4.900″ O.A.L
8mm Bead Lock Exhaust Valve, 1.600″ x 4.950″ O.A.L
PAC Racing Spring 1.290″ OD Hydraulic Roller Dual Valve Spring, 140 lbs on seat, .600″ maximum lift
ARP 3/8″ Rocker Studs
Comp Cams High Energy 1:6 Roller Rocker Arms
Comp Cams Magnum double roller timing set
Comp Cams Xtreme energy XE270HR cam 270/276 duration .512 valve lift, 114 deg LSA, 110 deg intake centerline
Speedpro forged pistons
24lb ford motorsport injectors
Ford motorsport 9mm spark plug wires
Explorer upper and lower intake
Cobra large bore fuel rails
130A high output alternator
BBK 8004 76mm MAF sensor
70mm throttle body
Remote mounted TFI module with heatsink
Custom machined 6061 serpentine accessory drive brackets
Custom-tuned EEC-IV ECU with live data logging Moates quarterhorse and glovebox mounted USB interface
JBA Stainless mid-length mandrel bent headers held down by ARP 12 pt header bolts
2.5 inch custom bent stainless steel dual exhaust
22-gal fuel tank modified with AN-fittings and baffle for EFI
Walbro high flow 190 lph in-tank fuel pump
Trunk mounted inertia cut-off switch
Wide oversized aluminum Northern radiator
Spal 16-inch low profile electric cooling fan
Classic interior with TMI upholstery and lateral bolsters for the front buckets
Grant Wood steering wheel
Retrosound Model 2 Bluetooth enabled stereo with kick panel speakers
Front and rear aircraft style seat belts
Hump mounted SN95 handbrake with custom console
Scott Drake Three bulb sequential taillights
Mustang, Aerostar, Bronco, Crown Victoria, Ford E150, E250, E350, E450, E550, Econoline, Lincoln Town Car, Continental, Navigator, Mercury Cougar, Grand Marquis, Mountaineer, Excursion, Expedition, Explorers, Ford F150, F250, F350, F450
(((Example vehicles based model year and part number search)))
PLEASE REMEMBER TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE DOING THIS REPAIR! Haynes manual says one minute, most people I talk to say 30 minutes, I say the longer the better
Parts needed to fix this problem “Ignition Actuator (upper) F2DZ-3E723-A and (lower) FODZ-3E715-A”
The steering column I’m repairing is in a 2000 Mustang GT. If your column is different but you use the same part numbers as above then the install will be very similar.
(Personal Note) The upper actuator pin broke because it could not push the lower actuator through the column. To replace just the upper will probably mean you have to do this job again in the future
www.steeringcolumnservices.com states that “This white plastic ignition actuator gear with teeth often breaks preventing you from starting or shutting off the vehicle with the ignition key. The ignition rack actuator failure is often misdiagnosed as a bad lock or ignition switch problem. The steel pin falls out of place and will not pull the lower rack and switch. Reinserting the pin only delays the inevitable — the need to replace the rack gear (it will fall out again)”
( ( ( SHORTCUTS: ) ) )
Quick check to see if this is your problem. Remove covers from around steering column and remove the ignition box from under steering column. Then check lower actuator connection to upper actuator 00:18
How to get it home without a tow truck
Removing Lower Plastic Dash Cover 01:23
Removing Lower Steel Dash Cover 03:08
Removing Steering Column Covers 03:55
Removing Ignition Switch Tumbler 04:47
Removing The Tilt Steering Lever 06:13
Removing the RFID Anti-theft Device 06:40
Removing the Ignition Box Under the Steering Column 07:50
Removing ? ? Buzzer/Chime Wire ? ? 08:40
Unpluging Clock Spring / Air Bag / …. 08:50
Removing Air Bag 11:08
Removing Turn Signal Switch 12:54
Removing Steering Wheel Screw 14:23
Unpluging Cruise Control & Horn from Clock Spring 15:04
Pulling the Steering Wheel 15:37
((Repairing Stripped Threads)) https://youtu.be/YUrNBFkFAYE
Removing Clock Spring 21:20
Removing Cancel Cam and Upper Steering Column Retainer 22:56
Removing Upper Housing Pivot Bolts, Shift Tube Spring and Steering Column Tolerance Bearing Ring 25:17
Removing the Upper Lock Cylinder Housing 29:20
Removing Ignition/Shifter Interlock Cable 30:34
Removing Lower Coupler and Bearing Retainer 31:29
Removing Lower Steering Housing 32:39
Removing Lower Bearing Retainer 33:22
Removing Lower Actuator 33:59
Making Tool to Remove Upper Lock Cylinder Retainer (GREEN) 34:23
Removing Upper Lock Cylinder Retainer (GREEN) and Actuator 35:02
Lubricating with Lithium Grease and Upper Actuator Install 36:10
Thrush Washer Alignment and (GREEN) Retainer Install 37:37
Installing Lower Actuator and Lubricating 39:38
(((Note: DON’T FORGET TO GREASE THE PIVOT BOLT HOLES TOO!)))
Installing Lower Bearing Retainer 42:26
Assembling Upper and Lower Housings Together 42:58
Aligning Upper Actuator with the Key Tumbler 49:15
Column Install in Car 52:24
BE SURE TO UNLOCK THE IGNITION SWITCH! 54:31
Installing Lower Coupler and Bearing Spring 55:10
Installing Ignition/Shifter Interlock Cable 56:24
Proper Location of Turn Signal Harness 57:24
Arranging Harness Plugs and Hand Tighten Rear Nuts 58:15
Installing Tilt Steering Spring 58:54
Install of Tilt Steering Pivot Bolts 1:00:57
Tightening All Column Mounting Nuts 1:04:31
Installing Upper Housing Bearing Retainer and Lubricating 1:05:37
HOW I GOT THE RETAINING RING ON ! 1:08:36
Installing Cancel Cam / Clock Spring / Harness Plugs / RFID / Blinkers 1:09:49
Installing Ignition Box 1:14:05
Installing Column Covers 1:16:15
Lubricate Install Key Tumbler 1:18:23
Install Steering Wheel / Airbag / Tilt Steering Arm 1:18:54
Connected Battery Testing 1:22:23
Installing Lower Dash Covers 1:24:43
Helpful Links:
https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/exploded-views.php
https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/92ford.php
https://www.justanswer.com/ford/1jy38-turning-key-95-crown-vic-will-push-ignition-switch.html