Roadkill is powered by Dodge, but on this episode, the world’s most revered rust bucket gets powered by a used Ford 5.0L Mustang V-8 with a Power Stroke diesel turbo! Our old 1971 Datsun 240Z earned its fame with a junkyard turbo on a Chevy 4.3L, but that V-6 finally failed us for the last time and we kicked it to the curb because the crankshaft broke in two during the 24 Hours of LeMons race on Episode 42. We heard Ford 5.0L V-8 blocks break in half at 500 hp, and what better vehicle to test that theory than the Rotsun? We scored a beat-up Fox-body Mustang for $1,500 and threw the engine and trans into the Rotsun, along with the ol’ used turbo that was made for a Ford Power Stroke diesel truck. But the big question is: Will the Rotsun finally fail to fail? Find out on this episode of Roadkill.

To order parts used on this episode visit https://www.jegs.com/roadkill
JEGS Performance Products 41260 – Part Number: 555-41260
JEGS Performance Products 1113 – Part Number: 555-1113
Pro Series Differential GM 8.875″ Car 1964-72 (3-Series Case, ” C” Clip) – Part Number: 109-542033
Boost/Vacuum 2” Diameter – Part Number: 390-8257
GM 12 Bolt Ring & Pinion Gear Set Ratio: 3.42 – Part Number: 836-49-0113-1
Differential Mega Kit 8.875″ 12 Bolt – Part Number: 836-83-1019-M
10SI Internally Regulated Alternator 85 Amp – Part Number: 713-7127
Hoosier Quick Time Pro D.O.T. Tire 27.0″ x 11.50″ – 15” LT – Part Number: 522-17510QTP
MSD Digital 6-Series Ignition Control Box & USB Adapter – Part Number: 121-6530K1
Holley Black Pro Series Pressure Electric Fuel Pump – Part Number: 510-12-815-1
Optima YellowTop Deep-Cycle Battery 12 Volts – Part Number: 753-9014-045
Gibson “Muffler With Attitude” 3″ exhaust tubing – Part Number: 462-BM0102

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https://ford-trucks.com/how-tos is the leading Ford F-150 and Super Duty truck resource for technical DIY guides. All F-150s come with a raked stance, which means that the rear of the truck sits two or three inches higher than the front. That “stinkbug” stance isn’t the most attractive and also limits the maximum tire size on the front end. For the full step-by-step article, please visit https://www.ford-trucks.com/how-tos/a/ford-f150-how-to-install-leveling-kit-356295

The easiest way to lift the front end is by using a strut spacer. This component fits between the top of the strut hat and the strut bracket.
Because of truck’s electric power steering, you’ll want to disconnect the negative battery cable prior to starting work.

This easy job takes a few hours and costs around $200 dollars. A professional will likely charge double the DIY cost.

This job requires a 15 millimeter socket and wrench, 18 and 21 millimeter deep sockets, a 30 millimeter socket, a 1-1 16-inch wrench, a breaker bar socket wrench, a pry bar, a hammer, a tire iron, ratchet straps, two jacks and jack stands. A Pitman arm puller is optional.

Step One – Loosen the lug nuts

Loosen the lug nuts with your 21 millimeter socket and socket wrench or tire iron.
Trucks with OEM wheels will require popping off the center cap in order to access the lug nuts. Do this with a flat head screw driver or the flat portion of your tire iron. Use a rag or towel between the tool and the wheel to keep scratches to a minimum.

Step Two – Jack up the front end of the truck

Chock one of the rear wheels and place the truck in neutral, then lift the truck with the jack.
Do not use the parking brake as you do need to allow the rear wheels to move a little bit as you lift the truck.

This will allow the jack to work properly as it’s not trying to fight the rear wheels as it pivots up.

After getting the F-150 into the air high enough to remove the front tires, place two jack stands at the frame of the truck. Finish unscrewing the lug nuts and remove the tires.

Step Three – Unbolt the sway bar end-link

Unbolt the sway bar link from the control arm with an 18 millimeter socket. It’s easiest to remove it from the control arm, but removing the link nut at the sway bar itself isn’t hard either.

Step Four – Loosen the upper ball joint

Next, loosen the upper ball joint nut but don’t completely remove it.
Either use your hammer to knock out the ball joint from the spindle or use a Pitman arm puller to pry the joint apart.
If you use a hammer, strike the spindle near the ball joint. Don’t actually hit the ball joint or control arm, or else you will cause unnecessary damage to the suspension.

You might be able to simply pull the two apart if they’re loose enough.

Step Five – Loosen the lower strut bolt

Fit a 30 millimeter socket to the lower strut bolt and hold the nut with a 1-1 16-inch wrench. This can be a very, very tight nut and it may be wise to rent or borrow a power tool to help. A long breaker bar may assist a little as well.

Finish removing the bolt.
It’s okay to skip this step if removing the bolt is too difficult, but you do have to loosen it. Swing the strut downward to install the lift spacer to the top of the strut if the strut hasn’t been unbolted.

Step Six – Move the wheel spindle out of the way

With the lower strut bolt out or loose, take your jack and place it under your lower control arm to keep it slightly elevated and remove the upper ball joint nut. Take your pry bar and lift up on the upper control arm as you move the spindle out of the way. Use ratchet straps or strong line to keep the spindle supported.

Step Seven – Remove nuts from top of the strut

Slowly remove the three 15 millimeter nuts holding the strut top to its bracket if you have removed the lower strut bolt. Allow the jack to slowly drop the lower control arm and the strut assembly will follow. Be sure that it doesn’t drop out and onto the floor. If you still have the lower strut bolt on the lower control arm, you may have to pry down on the lower control arm a bit so the strut comes out of the bracket.

Step Eight – Install a spacer to the top of the strut

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions as they all vary somewhat. Some will use an extended stud on the strut bolts. Other spacers have studs already pressed in and will only need to be bolted to the strut.
After installation, put everything back together in the reverse order and get ready to do the other side.

After installing a leveling kit or doing any other suspension modification, your first trip should be towards the alignment shop. You have changed the angles of the control arms and tie-rods. In doing so, you have changed the camber and toe at the very least, but it’s recommended to get a full alignment—including caster.