https://www.etrailer.com/tv-hitch-install-2002-ford-taurus.aspx
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today we are going to be installing trailer hitch 36313 from Draw-Tite, and this also includes hitch number 90309 from Hidden Hitch, on a 2002 Ford Taurus. We are underneath the vehicle now, and we are looking at the passengers side frame rail. We are going to go ahead and point out the mounting locations for the trailer hitch. You can see first on some models there will be a carbon canister mounted here on the passengers side frame rail, and the instructions do stipulate what you need to do in that instance. This particular vehicle does not have that canister, so we can go ahead and omit that section of the instructions. We are going to go ahead and use the inboard vertical bolt, here, as one of the attaching points, so we will need to go ahead and remove that bolt. On models with the tow hooks, we are going to need to remove those as well. There is one bolt holding those in there should be one on each side of the vehicle if the vehicle does have the tow hooks.
The other attaching point will be here at the bottom of the frame. We actually are going to feed the handle nut and block through this hole in the side of the frame and align it with the hole at the bottom of the frame. The hole that we are going to use does vary from model to model, so what we are going to need to do is go ahead and remove this bolt, get the hitch up into position, and then figure out which hole aligns with the hole in the hitch. On the drivers side as well, there is the exhaust. We are going to need to go ahead and lower that first to make room to get the hitch up into place. On the exhaust, there should be two hangers, one at the rear side here and then one more forward of the exhaust, and we need to go ahead and remove both of those to lower the exhaust down properly. And go ahead and remove the tow hooks from both sides of the vehicle.
Again, you want to take off the tow hooks before you actually try to attempt to take the bolt out of the vertical side of the frame, because the tow hook will be in the way. OK, with the bolts removed from the inboard side of the vehicle and the tow hooks removed as well, we can go ahead and put the hitch up into position. And we want to use the new hardware that is provided in the installation kit for this vertical attaching point. We want to make sure that we have the hitch arm mounted to the rear side of the flange here it does not go on the inboard side. It is very tight quarters here, so it will require some patience to get the bolt in there, but it will go. OK, we do not want to fully tighten those down just yet. Leave it just a little bit loose so that we can finagle it if we need to later.
OK, with the hitch up into place, you can come to the bottom side of the frame here, and you can see where the bolt holes align with the hole in the hitch. So we are actually going to use this location here. We are actually going to take the half-inch bolt that is actually going to go up inside the frame this way. In order to do that, we are going to need to use the handle nut and the block that are provided in the kit. These two are actually going to go together, like so. We are going to go ahead and tape those two into place, and we are going to feed them through the hole in the side of the frame and then align it to where it aligns over top of this hole. I need a little trick to hold the alignment: we need to go ahead and thread the bolt into the handle nut, and that will hold it in place for you. And we want to go ahead and do that for both assemblies, and then we can go ahead and feed them up into the frame.
And again, you are probably going to need to bend the handle nut the handle to the handle nut here bend it however you need to, to get it into position inside the frame over the existing hole. We are going to go ahead and repeat that process for the other side as well. OK, now that we have got all the attaching points up into position, we can go ahead and torque the bolts down. And you want to check with your instructions to verify the appropriate torque rating for each individual bolt. All right, with the bolts all torqued down, we can go ahead and put our exhaust back up into position, and then our installation will be complete. And this will conclude the installation of hitch part number 36313 on a 2002 Ford Taurus.
I’ve done this video before. Not in HD, but this time I’m leaving you without an audio track to drown out what I’m doing. In previous videos I removed the transmission separately. Not this time. This is how you pick it out in one piece. No subtitles to read or block the view. Those of you looking for granular info about this video will find it here.
In order to remove a 4g63 AWD drivetrain, you’ll need to disconnect the following components… not necessarily in this order… and my car isn’t exactly stock, but this is what you’re after. Some things you can leave connected, especially if they’re stock, but I removed them for safety reasons and because I routed some modified items differently. The timeline is listed here for your convenience.
[off-camera] Remove the battery and support the car on jackstands.
1:14 Drain oil
1:20 Drain gear oil, ATF if you’re an automatic.
1:28 remove radiator cap
1:31 Drain coolant
1:34 Remove radiator brackets, and coolant overflow system
1:40 Remove breather hoses.
1:42 Remove intake pipe
1:44 Remove throttle linkage bracket from intake manifold
1:50 Disconnect the fuel rail
1:54 Remove upper intercooler pipe
1:58 Remove upper and lower radiator hoses
2:02 Remove coil-on-plug plate [if equipped] to prevent damage.
2:07 Remove cruise control motor [if equipped] for clearance
2:13 Remove catch can
2:15 Remove throttle linkage from throttle body
2:18 Remove the hood
2:25 un-bolt cruise control linkage box [if equipped]
2:29 un-bolt AC hose from fender
2:31 Remove power steering bracket (5 bolts and it free’s up the pump*)
*leave the pump connected.
2:40 Remove Dynatek ARC-2 ignition amplifier box [if equipped]
2:46 Un-plug injectors, cam angle sensor, crank angle sensor, AC harness, transistor pack, knock sensor, coil pack harness, TPS sensor, idle switch [if equipped], MAP sensor harness, o2 sensor harness, alternator connector, charge wire, oil pressure sensors, power steering switch and radiator fans
2:54 Remove power steering cooler brackets if they’re in your way.
2:57 Remove radiator
3:00 Remove lowest coolant hose [in my case the turbo fitting] so the rest of the coolant will drain.
3:03 Remove coolant sensor wires and fan switch
3:06 Remove external oil cooler lines [if equipped]
3:16 Remove turbo oil feed line at lowest point so the rest of the oil drains.
3:20 Remove transmission linkage
3:25 Remove shifter cables from bracket
3:29 Remove clutch slave and zip-tie it so it doesn’t come apart and leak.
3:36 Remove downpipe flange bolts and gasket
3:42 Remove wheels, and axles*.
* Watch my transmission series for detailed info on this process if you get stuck.
** Put all the suspension stuff back together so you can put the car down.
*** Put the washer and axle nuts back on the axles after removing them.
5:00 Loosen the alternator belt [and AC belt if equipped]
5:04 Remove the crank pulley for clearance
5:09 Remove the transfer case
5:27 Remove the starter bolts and stuff the starter out of your way*.
*note the ground wire.
5:37 Remove the heater hoses
5:48 Attach your engine hoist brackets… DON’T LOSE THESE THINGS if you remove them like I do.
6:19 Protect your valve cover from damage with the chains and hoist.
6:31 Remove the three lower bracket bolts from the rear roll-stop mount
6:49 Remove all the bolts from the front roll-stop mount
6:54 Remove the lower crossmember and torque plate
7:06 Put the wheels back on and put the car on the ground.
7:25 Connect the hoist and put tension on it to support the engine’s weight.
7:35 Remove the transmission mount
7:43 Remove the transmission mount bracket
7:46 Remove the reverse switch to prevent damaging it
7:52 Remove the timing-side engine mount.
8:03 Slightly lower the engine and remove the vacuum lines and brake booster hose from the back of the intake manifold
8:12 Remove the ground wire from the back of the motor
8:17 Remove the last thing you overlooked.
8:30 Remove the engine and transmission in one piece.
The crank pulley, transmission mount bracket, and reverse switch removal allows you more wiggle room without damaging either those parts or scratching up the chassis. The trans mount bracket loves to get caught on the passenger-side brake lines. The speed sensor is protected by the rear motor mount bracket, so you can leave it in place.
I replaced my AC compressor during the transmission replacement, but never charged the system. If you have working AC, un-bolt the compressor and hang it from a bolt on the firewall using heavy-gauge wire. That way you don’t have to evacuate the refrigerant and drive up the cost of repairing your car with an AC service, filter-drier and expansion tube. Don’t let it hang from the lines because they can leak or even break.