ASTM A193 A320 B8 All Threaded Stud Bolts
Standard: IFI-136, ASME B16.5, DIN976
Inch Size: 1/4”-4” with various lengths
Metric Size: M6-M100 with various lengths
Other Available Grade:
ASTM A193/A193M B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2,
ASTM A320/A320M B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2
Finish: Plain, PTFE etc.
Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet
Advantage: High Quality and Strict Quality Control, Competitive Price,Timely Delivery; Technical Support, Supply Test Reports
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ASTM A320
Scope Originally approved in 1948, the ASTM A320 specification covers alloy steel and stainless steel bolting materials for low temperature service. This standard covers rolled, forged, or strain hardened bars, bolts, screws, studs, and stud bolts used for pressure vessels, valves, flanges, and fittings. Like the ASTM A193 specification, unless otherwise specified, the 8UN thread series is specified on fastener larger than 1” in diameter. Below is a basic summary of a few of the common grades within the ASTM A320 specification. A number of other less common grades of ASTM A320 exist, but not covered in the description below.| L7 Alloy steel | AISI 4140/4142 Quenched and tempered |
| L43 Alloy steel | AISI 4340 Quenched and tempered |
| B8 Class 1 Stainless steel | AISI 304, carbide solution treated |
| B8M Class 1 Stainless steel | AISI 316, carbide solution treated |
| B8 Class 2 Stainless steel | AISI 304, carbide solution treated, strain hardened |
| B8M Class 2 Stainless steel | AISI 316, carbide solution treated, strain hardened |
| Grade | Size | Tensile, ksi, min | Yield, ksi, min |
Charpy Impact 20-ft-lbf @ temp |
Elong, %, min | RA, %, min |
| L7 | Up to 21/2 | 125 | 105 | -150° F | 16 | 50 |
| L43 | Up to 4 | 125 | 105 | -150° F | 16 | 50 |
|
B8 Class 1 |
All | 75 | 30 | N/A | 30 | 50 |
|
B8M Class 1 |
All | 75 | 30 | N/A | 30 | 50 |
|
B8 Class 2 |
Up to 3/4 | 125 | 100 | N/A | 12 | 35 |
| 7/8 - 1 | 115 | 80 | N/A | 15 | 35 | |
| 11/8 - 11/4 | 105 | 65 | N/A | 20 | 35 | |
| 13/8 - 11/2 | 100 | 50 | N/A | 28 | 45 | |
|
B8M Class 2 |
Up to 3/4 | 110 | 95 | N/A | 15 | 45 |
| 7/8 - 1 | 100 | 80 | N/A | 20 | 45 | |
| 11/8 - 11/4 | 95 | 65 | N/A | 25 | 45 | |
| 13/8 - 11/2 | 90 | 50 | N/A | 30 | 45 |
| Grade | Nuts | Washers |
| L7 | A194 Grade 4 or 7 | F436 |
| L43 | A194 Grade 4 or 7 | F436 |
| B8 Class 1 | A194 Grade 8 | SS304 |
| B8M Class 1 | A194 Grade 8M | SS316 |
| B8 Class 2 | A194 Grade 8, strain hardened | SS304 |
| B8M Class 2 | A194 Grade 8M, strain hardened | SS316 |
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A brief video about how PVC compression fittings work. Including connection to basin waste and the standard compression fitting. Also how their tapered rubber seal and slip collar create a water tight seal. For more information visit our website at https://www.plumberparts.co.uk
Just watching England play cricket. It’s at times like this that all I really want to do is tell you how PVC compression fittings work. Let’s have a look.
Here is a length of inch and a quarter PVC pipe. Now I’m going to show you the two different types of compression fitting there is for PVC. Firstly, we have a compression fitting that goes onto the bottom of a metal flange. You often see these go onto the bottom of a wash basin or a trap, and they have a small rubber seal just here. The trap or whatever you’re coating to seals on here, and there’s a small, you can see the thread inside this now, that twists up round, and makes a watertight seal. On the other side of this we have the more traditional type of PVC compression fitting. We have our nut, we have our anti-slip collar here, and then the actual tapered rubber seal just here. Now the pipe sits in here just like that, just like so. So let’s have a look at this, the nut slips on first here. The anti-slip collar then goes on. These can be either blue- or red- coloured. Now the object of this is, as that nut turns round, if that was just going onto the tapered rubber seal that would just pull it up and it would never tighten up properly. Now the tapered rubber seal goes on, and then you push it all together, making sure when you do so that the pipe goes fully home, making sure that your tapered rubber seal is happily down within the fitting. Then bring up your nut. Most as long just tighten up by hand, but you can do them with grips. Be careful when you do, because metal grips on plastic, obviously metal always wins, and it will rip apart. And then you just tighten that up, and that there then creates a watertight PVC seal.
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