Cadmium Plated A193 B7 Threaded Stud Bolts
API 6A Flange Valve Wellhead All Thread Stud Bolts
Standard: IFI-136, ASME B16.5, DIN976
Inch Size: 1/4”-4” with various lengths
Metric Size: M6-M100 with various lengths
Other Available Grade:
ASTM A193/A193M B7, B7M, B16, B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2,
ASTM A320/A320M L7, L7M, L43, B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2, and so on.
Finish: Plain, Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, Zinc Nickel Plated, Cadmium Plated, PTFE etc.
Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet
Advantage: High Quality and Strict Quality Control, Competitive Price,Timely Delivery; Technical Support, Supply Test Reports
Please feel free to contact us for more details.
ASTM A193
Scope
Originally approved in 1936, this specification is heavily utilized in petroleum and chemical construction applications. The ASTM standard covers alloy steel and stainless steel bolting materials for high temperature service. This specification includes fasteners intended for use in pressure vessels, valves, flanges, and fittings. Although, this material is often available in national coarse (UNC) thread pitches, if being used in traditional applications, threads are specified 8 threads per inch (tpi) for diameters above one inch.
Below is a basic summary of a few of the common grades. ASTM A193 covers a number of other standard specifications not covered in this description including B5, B6, and B16.
Grades
| B7 | Alloy steel, AISI 4140/4142 quenched and tempered |
| B8 | Class 1 Stainless steel, AISI 304, carbide solution treated. |
| B8M | Class 1 Stainless steel, AISI 316, carbide solution treated. |
| B8 | Class 2 Stainless steel, AISI 304, carbide solution treated, strain hardened |
| B8M | Class 2 Stainless steel, AISI 316, carbide solution treated, strain hardened |
Mechanical Properties
| Grade | Size | Tensile ksi, min | Yield, ksi, min | Elong, %, min | RA % min |
| B7 | Up to 2-1/2 | 125 | 105 | 16 | 50 |
| 2-5/8 - 4 | 115 | 95 | 16 | 50 | |
| 4-1/8 - 7 | 100 | 75 | 18 | 50 | |
| B8 Class 1 | All | 75 | 30 | 30 | 50 |
| B8M Class 1 | All | 75 | 30 | 30 | 50 |
| B8 Class 2 | Up to 3/4 | 125 | 100 | 12 | 35 |
| 7/8 - 1 | 115 | 80 | 15 | 35 | |
| 1-1/8 - 1-1/4 | 105 | 65 | 20 | 35 | |
| 1-3/8 - 1-1/2 | 100 | 50 | 28 | 45 | |
| B8M Class 2 | Up to 3/4 | 110 | 95 | 15 | 45 |
| 7/8 - 1 | 100 | 80 | 20 | 45 | |
| 1-1/8 - 1-1/4 | 95 | 65 | 25 | 45 | |
| 1-3/8 - 1-1/2 | 90 | 50 | 30 | 45 |
Recommended Nuts and Washers
| Bolt Grade | Nuts | Washers |
| B7 | A194 Grade 2H | F436 |
| B8 Class 1 | A194 Grade 8 | SS304 |
| B8M Class 1 | A194 Grade 8M | SS316 |
| B8 Class 2 | A194 Grade 8 | SS304 |
| B8M Class 2 | A194 Grade 8M | SS316 |
Strain hardened nuts available as a supplementary requirement
Video tutorial on how to replace the front wheel bearing on a 2 wheel drive 1997 to 2004 Dodge Dakota with a 4.7L V8. When ordering a new wheel bearing, you will also have to order a new locking nut because this particular model uses nylon locking nut which cannot be reused. Other styles use a castellated nut which has a cotter pin to lock it into place rather than using a nylon insert built within the nut. This particular tutorial was done on a 2003 Dodge Dakota 2wd.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-jack
-jack/axle stand
-large slip joint pliers or c clamp
-14mm socket
-21mm socket
-bungie cord
-hammer
-1-3/8″ socket
-ratchet set
-emery paper or an abrasive pad
-degreaser
-rag
-torque wrench
-new spindle lock nut
-new spindle/wheel bearing assembly
Procedure:
-safety raise the vehicle using a jack, support with a jack stand, and remove the wheel
-loosen the master cylinder reservoir so when you depress the pistons in the caliper, it doesn’t build up an access pressure in the system
-remove the two 14mm bolts from the caliper, then depress the pistons while the caliper is in place using a large pair of slip joint pliers or a c-clamp
-once you’ve removed the caliper, tie it into place with a bungie cord so there isn’t any strain on the brake line
-next remove the caliper carrier which is held on by two 21mm bolts on the backside
-once the carrier is removed, remove the rotor next
-if the rotor is stuck on, you can hit the rotor with a hammer in between the lugs to rattle it loose
-now you can remove the hub using a 1-3/8″ socket
-if the hub is slightly stuck on, you can tap the rear with a hammer considering you’ll be replacing the bearing and it doesn’t matter about the old bearings
-you can also use a puller if you wish
-clean the spindle shaft of any rust or grim in order for the new one to fit
-use emery paper or an abrasive pad to clean up the spindle shaft, then wipe clean with a degreaser and rag
-the new hub assembly is a sliding fit setup
-once the hub is in place, you can now install the new locking nylon locking nut (torque spec is 185ft lbs or 251nm)
-caliper slide pin torque specs are 22 ft lbs or 30nm
-assembly in reverse of disassembly
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