Wholesale PriceList for ASTM A563M 10S Metric Heavy Hex Nuts for Myanmar Factories

ASTM A563M 10S Metric Heavy Hex Nuts Dimension Standard: ASME B18.2.4.6M Metric Size: M12-M36 Other Available Material Grade: ASTM A563M 5, 10, 12, 8S, 10S and so on Finish: Plain, Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, Zinc Nickel Plated, Cadmium Plated, PTFE etc. Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet Advantage: High Quality, Competitive Price, Timely Delivery,Technical Support, Supply Test Reports Please feel free to contact us for more details.

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    BLOG ARTICLE: https://blog.bavauto.com/14819

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    All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at https://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: https://blog.bavauto.com/

    In this DIY and How-To video, we’ll outline the procedure for control arm and bushing replacement on an E60, E61 chassis 5-series BMW (3 series 04-10). This procedure can be followed for all 5-series models from 2004 through 2011 (exc 2010 GT), 6-series (E63, 64) 2004 through 2010 (and coupe through 2013), 7-series (E65, 66) 2001 through 2009 as well as 3-series 06-on (E90, E91, E92. E93 and F30), 5-series 11-on (F07, F10), 6-series (F12, F13), 7-series (F01, F02), Z4 (E89) and X1, X3, X5 and X6 models with minor detail differences.

    The applicable Bentley repair manual will detail the specific procedures and torque values for your given BMW model, to include those for the models and chassis not listed here.

    PARTS USED:
    • Upper (thrust/strut) control arm
    * New lock-nuts for ball-joint and bushing bolt

    TOOLS USED:
    * Steering Knuckle Spreader Tool –
    • 3/8″ drive Torx bit socket set
    * 3/8″ drive Allen metric bit socket set
    * 3/8″ drive ratchet and extensions
    • 1/2″ drive sockets, universal joint, extensions and ratchet, 16mm – 21mm
    • open-end wrench set, 16mm-21mm
    • Various flat-head and phillips screwdrivers

    PROCEDURE:

    1) Lift and properly support the front of the vehicle, so that the front wheels are off the ground.

    2) Remove the wheel/tire assembly.

    3) Remove the under-chassis splash panel(s).

    4) Remove the nut on the outer control arm ball joint as follows; Loosen the nut on the end of the ball joint’s through-pin. Once the nut is loose, the through-pin will rotate with the nut (this is NOT a tapered pin as is common on earlier designs). Use the applicable Torx or Allen bit, inserted into the end of the through-pin, to secure the pin and remove the nut.

    NOTE: DO NOT use a pickle-fork (or other ball-joint separator tools) to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. The ball-joint through pin is not tapered and does not require any type of separator tool.

    5) Loosen the nut on the through-bolt for the control arm bushing mount.

    7) Remove the strut clamp through-bolt and the remaining bolt securing the swaybar endlink bracket to the steering knuckle. Move the swaybar endlink bracket aside.

    8) Use the steering knuckle strut clamp spreader tool to slightly widen the strut clamp.

    9) Pull the steering knuckle assembly down a few inches so that the control arm ball-joint can be pulled up and out of the steering knuckle assembly (see step 10 before attempting to pull the ball-joint out).

    10) Remove the control arm bushing through-bolt.

    11) Remove the control arm ball-joint from the steering knuckle.

    12) Install the new control arm by inserting the ball-joint into the steering knuckle and the bushing up into the mounting bracket. Insert the bushing through-bolt.

    13) Push the steering knuckle up to seat the strut fully into the clamping saddle (a hydraulic jack may be useful to push the steering knuckle assembly up). Be sure that the strut is properly seated into the clamping saddle.

    14) Remove the steering knuckle spreader tool.

    15) Install the swaybar endlink bracket with the bracket bolt and the steering knuckle through-bolt. Tighten the bolts to the torque specified in the Bentley repair manual.

    16) Using the Torx or Allen bit and open-end wrench, tighten the ball-joint hut to the specified torque (Bentley repair manual).

    17) Install the control arm bushing through-bolt nut. Do not fully tighten the nut.

    NOTE: The control arm must be positioned at normal ride height before tightening the control arm bushing through-bolt and nut. This can be accomplished by carefully (and with extreme caution) jacking under the control arm ball-joint until the chassis shows signs of lightening on the jack-stand or by lowering the vehicle onto ramps (so you can still work under to access the bushing bolt and nut).

    12) We’re sorry, but the description can not be any longer (youtube requirement). Watch the video and see our tech blog for the full DIY steps at https://blog.bavauto.com/14819

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    Make a do it yourself recycled soda can whirligig wind spinner using an aluminum can, tea can, pop can, or beer can.

    https://www.chongolio.com/recycled-aluminum-can-wind-spinners-vlog23.

    If you like kinetic art, this aluminum can art project is awesome and this video will show you how to make a beer can wind spinner or how to make soda can wind spinners.

    Watch VLOG 23 for wind spinner instructions on how to build this found art object project.

    Wind powered art is perfect for colorful garden art and garden decoration and is an easy to make recycled art project.

    If you have a moment I sure would like to hear what you think of this beer can whirligig so please leave me a comment.

    For this art project you will need:

    An aluminum or pop can (Arizona ice tea cans are my favorite to use)

    Scissors

    Pliers (flower printed one are optional)

    Gloves (highly recommended!)

    A wire hanger

    A wine cork

    Furniture glides or a long skinny nail with a wide flat head

    Screw and washer to secure base to wood fence or stake (optional)

    The scissors are going to used to cut the top of the can and also to make and help shape the spinners blades. We are going to use this cork to secure the win spinner to its base. Pliers will be used to bend the coat hanger base. Please make a note here I do not own flowery pliers, these belong to my mom.

    This pack of furniture glides will come in handy to attach the can to the cork. And lastly a coat hanger which is gonna serve as our base. The first step is to cut the top of the can. Use the scissors to carefully punch a hole the end. Once you have a hole, use that as a starting point to cut around the can.

    You should really be wearing a pair gloves, because the edge of the can are pretty sharp, but since all I could find a flowery gloves I decided to just take my chances. Now lets make some blades by cutting slats vertically up the side of the can. Use any straight lines that you can find to act as guides.

    Turning the scissors side ways and at an angle will help make longer cuts when you reach the other side of the can. Stop your cuts about half an inch from the bottom. Make another cut opposite the first one and then two more at 90 degree angles from the first two cuts.

    Divide and cut those four blades in half to give you total 8 blades. As you cut those remaining blades, bend them outward horizontally.This will make them easier to cut those final slats.

    Round the corners of the blades with your scissors on one side then flip the can over to easily do the same to the other side the blades. One last wee snip is made at the base of the blades which allows you to give it a slight bend so that he can catch the wind.

    So now let’s get the base ready. With your pliers unwind the hook of the hangar and do your best to get the coat hanger as straight as possible. Make a right angle at the end of the hanger where the wire still has the twist in it from where it was wrapped around itself.

    You can use the pliers to bend and break the curved part of the hanger just before the twists. On opposite side of the hanger, make another right angle. Depending on how tall you want your wind spinner to stand, you are gonna want to leave one to two feet between bends.

    After you make that right angle, measure out three to four inches the go ahead and bend and break the hanger again. Fashion loop on that just bent side of the hanger so that you can use the washer and a screw to attach the base to something solid.

    The pointy end of the furniture glides or a small nail can be used to put a hole in the end your cork. Now you can screw the cork onto the twisty end of the coat hanger. Poke a hole in the center of the can then use a discarded piece of the coat hanger to widen the hole just a little bit.

    Using the furniture glide make a guide hole in the other in the cork, You will then be ready to attach the spinner to its base. Make sure you leave enough play for the can spin freely, then go ahead and fix any blades that may have gotten bent when you were putting the can on the cork.

    Now go outside and find a nice breezy place to put your new wind spinner and let that thing do some spin in the wind So there, you go a wind spinner made easy peasy George and Weezy. Jefferson that is. Another simple project that you can make using items and tools that you probably have laying around your house.

    Hey, if you got a project out there that you like to see me make why don’t leave me a comment down below. Send me an email or come find me on Facebook, Twitter or Google plus. You can also check my website out at Chonglio.com, Where I got all kinds of tips tricks and techniques to help release your inner artist.