ASTM A193/A193M B7M All Threaded Stud Bolts
Alloy steel bolting for pressure vessels, valves, flanges, and fittings for high temperature or high pressure service, or other special purpose applications.
Standard: IFI-136, ASME B16.5, DIN976
Inch Size: 1/4”-4” with various lengths
Metric Size: M6-M100 with various lengths
Other Available Grade:
ASTM A193/A193M B7, B7M, B16 B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2,
ASTM A320/A320M L7, L7M, L43, B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2, and so on.
Finish: Plain, Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, Zinc Nickel Plated, Cadmium Plated, PTFE etc.
Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet
Advantage: High Quality and Strict Quality Control, Competitive Price,Timely Delivery; Technical Support, Supply Test Reports
Please feel free to contact us for more details.
ASTM A193
Scope
Originally approved in 1936, this specification is heavily utilized in petroleum and chemical construction applications. The ASTM standard covers alloy steel and stainless steel bolting materials for high temperature service. This specification includes fasteners intended for use in pressure vessels, valves, flanges, and fittings. Although, this material is often available in national coarse (UNC) thread pitches, if being used in traditional applications, threads are specified 8 threads per inch (tpi) for diameters above one inch.
Below is a basic summary of a few of the common grades. ASTM A193 covers a number of other standard specifications not covered in this description including B5, B6, and B16.
Grades
B7 | Alloy steel, AISI 4140/4142 quenched and tempered |
B8 | Class 1 Stainless steel, AISI 304, carbide solution treated. |
B8M | Class 1 Stainless steel, AISI 316, carbide solution treated. |
B8 | Class 2 Stainless steel, AISI 304, carbide solution treated, strain hardened |
B8M | Class 2 Stainless steel, AISI 316, carbide solution treated, strain hardened |
Mechanical Properties
Grade | Size | Tensile ksi, min | Yield, ksi, min | Elong, %, min | RA % min |
B7 | Up to 2-1/2 | 125 | 105 | 16 | 50 |
2-5/8 - 4 | 115 | 95 | 16 | 50 | |
4-1/8 - 7 | 100 | 75 | 18 | 50 | |
B8 Class 1 | All | 75 | 30 | 30 | 50 |
B8M Class 1 | All | 75 | 30 | 30 | 50 |
B8 Class 2 | Up to 3/4 | 125 | 100 | 12 | 35 |
7/8 - 1 | 115 | 80 | 15 | 35 | |
1-1/8 - 1-1/4 | 105 | 65 | 20 | 35 | |
1-3/8 - 1-1/2 | 100 | 50 | 28 | 45 | |
B8M Class 2 | Up to 3/4 | 110 | 95 | 15 | 45 |
7/8 - 1 | 100 | 80 | 20 | 45 | |
1-1/8 - 1-1/4 | 95 | 65 | 25 | 45 | |
1-3/8 - 1-1/2 | 90 | 50 | 30 | 45 |
Recommended Nuts and Washers
Bolt Grade | Nuts | Washers |
B7 | A194 Grade 2H | F436 |
B8 Class 1 | A194 Grade 8 | SS304 |
B8M Class 1 | A194 Grade 8M | SS316 |
B8 Class 2 | A194 Grade 8 | SS304 |
B8M Class 2 | A194 Grade 8M | SS316 |
Strain hardened nuts available as a supplementary requirement
I’m Joe Schmidt with Home Remodel Workshop. Today were going to show you how to get that toilet installed.
In this situation where the flange is actually sitting on top of the finish surface, you want just a standard wax ring in standard length John bolts. In this circumstance where the flange itself is actually below the finish flow surface, you’re going to want to get yourself and extended wax ring and longer bolts. As you can see this wax ring is much thicker than the standard wax ring. I personally like the John bolts that have the extra washer built on to it. It helps the bolts stand up very easily. Youll notice the head of this bolt clipped square. They fit down into this square slot on your flange and just slide them in.
Now you’re ready to apply your wax ring to the flange. There is a flat side on the wax ring, it goes down against the flange taper side up. Just apply the wax to the flange, center the wax and bolts over the opening and you’re ready to go.
Now set the toilet onto the flange. Pick up the toilet and carefully line up your bolts with the openings in the bottom of the toilet and once you get both bolts through press down evenly and wont mess the wax ring. When you’re setting you’re toilet you want to press straight down, keep an even pressure on your wax gasket. This is the connection to your plumbing system and it needs to be airtight watertight. Do not rock back and forth or front to back or you’ll end up with a leaky seal which could lead sure gases in your house or water on your floor.
Now, were ready to bolt the toilet down to the flange. First you want to take your cap washer place it over your bolt then the metal washer goes over that. Keep in mind on this cap washer there isnt up and down side on them and sometime its hard to tell. Go ahead and take your nut, thread it onto your bolt. Now, that your bolts are finger tight, go ahead and alternate your wrench from side to side to tighten both sides of the toilet evenly.
Now I’m ready to cut off the toilet bolts so the cap will fit over the nut and the washer. I take a hacksaw that I wrapped with a little duck tape. Now you can use a mini hacksaw if you’re more comfortable with that and basically you just start sawing the bolt off right above the nut. And once you get it broken off, you take your cap and you give it a firm wrap and its on.
For connecting up your toilet I would use one of these flexible waterlines, unless you have some experience with bending rigid plumbing supply lines you’re better off with these, theyre braided metal, they come in various sizes and its easy to connect.
And there you go put the toilet sit on it and this one is ready to get to work. Oh yeah and dont forget to subscribe. Thanks.