Please find this product at https://absupply.net/searchfast.aspx?videoid=84YDy0W8c4Q
This video is to bring you a closer look at the Rockwood RM1210 Small Straight Post-Mount Pull.
This is an 18″ pull and that means that from center to center will 18″, stainless steel finish.
Threads on the inside here.
Different architectural finishes available brass or bronze, you select those.
Mounting type, is two ways that this: is Type 1 which is gonna look just like this, it’s a through bolt, is gonna have a machine bolt with a washer on the other side.
Overall length 19 13/16″
Projection from the face of the door to the side of the pull handle 1 1/2″.
There is a link below this video to the Product Brochure which shows this and its sister related products by Rockwood.
There is also a link to the Mounting Drawing which shows the types we discussed earlier.
On the Type 5 the inside pull handle is going to look identical but the preparation of the base is different and what is gonna have is a tap for the set screw.
Your mounting is going to include 2 machine screws, two brass cones and two small set screws.
So your cone is gonna go like that.
This assembly threads all the way down then the other side.
The installation is like this and what happens is the set screw preparation is going to made up against that brass cone.
The fit and finish are always exceptional on all item i review from Rockwood.
Pulls like this are very commonly used in refrigerators.
I have people that buy this for custom cabinets as well.
They’re fit and finish is excellent.
Great quality material from Rockwood.
Rockwood is a full line manufacturer of all things architectural door related knows for door stops, kick plates, pushing pull bars, pivots etc
Great quality customer service, very good quality company.
If you have any questions regarding Rockwood RM1210 Small Straight Post-Mount Pull or any other Rockwood product please feel free to reach out to us.
Thank you!
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop, Part 5, by Clickspring.
In this video I cut the pinions for the clock from drill rod, and then harden, temper and polish them.
Another milling operation carried out on the lathe, using a cross-slide mounted vertical slide, a light duty milling spindle, a Sherline motor/speed control, and the Divisionmaster CNC indexer.
I also make an improvement on my Sherline lathe tailstock polisher, by making a tin lap for polishing the pinion flanks.
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and a comment.
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/clickspring
For more info on this build, as well as other tool making info, visit the blog site at https://www.clickspringprojects.com
Other Videos to Watch:
Home Machine Shop Tool Making – Machining A Finger Plate Clamping Tool – Part 1
Machining a JANSJÖ LED Work Lamp Adapter Plate In The Home Machine Shop
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Transcript:
00:10 Clock trains and some instruments tend to be designed so that the larger wheels do the driving of the pinions, rather than the other way around. So traditionally the tooth profile for a clock is cycloidal. Quite different to the involute shape of most geared mechanisms. Today’s job is to cut that traditional tooth profile into these 2 steel pinions, and then harden, temper and polish them
00:40 So lets get started. I would have preferred to have made these pinions out of EN8 steel, which is a real pleasure to machine, and can also be quench hardened. Unfortunately I don’t have any. What I do have is plenty of drill rod, so drill rod it is.
00:52 After cutting to length, I cut a 60 degree taper on the end of the stock.
01:15 So I turned the outside to the correct diameter. And then set up the cutting gear on the lathe. It’s pretty much the same as for the wheel cutting. The spindle is indicated square, and the cutter is lined up on the center of the work.
01:38 Although its a bit more critical this time. If the cutter is even a little bit off center, the leaves will have an obvious lean, and the work’s ruined. It’s also worth mentioning that cutting pinions is a lot more problematic than cutting wheels.
01:51 Brass mills very easily – you can rip into it with the cutter, and providing its all lined up as it should be, its hard to get a bad result. But pinion cutting is something else altogether. For one thing, silver steel is much less forgiving, and really hard on the cutters. So chip control is really important to look after the them.
02:26 To be honest, I’m always a bit on edge cutting pinions, and kind of relieved when its over. It’s just so easy to wreck the cutter. I’m taking care of the 8 leaf pinion here, and the 6 leaf was cut in exactly the same way.
04:34 Thankfully it was, but I’ve had plenty that weren’t! The part is then flipped end for end, and given the same facing cut, followed by drilling and reaming. The reamer I’m using here is a piece of the same pivot steel to which this pinion will eventually be bonded. So a nice fit is guaranteed.
05:37 A piece of pegwood shaped to fit the gap, along with a coarse grit, was used to remove some of the tool marks before hardening. OK, ready to be hardened.
06:01 I used this wire basket to hold the part, and I also coated it in a mix of boric acid and denatured alcohol, to keep the scaling to a minimum. A light touch with a file to confirms that the hardening has been successful
08:13 The MDF lap brought up a nice scratch free polish, but you can see its rolling the edges of the leaves, which doesn’t look great. So its time to try something better. I put the job on hold for a few days, and ordered in a small round casting of pure tin.
08:31 Tin is well established as a polishing base. Its hard enough to keep edges crisp, yet soft enough to allow the polish to charge its surface. I machined the tin into a new lap for my tailstock polishing jig.
09:11 One shiny new tin lap; lets give it a run. And based on the result, that MDF lap is going in the bin! A tin polisher is definitely the way to go.
John Wilding workshop and clock construction books:
https://www.ritetimepublishing.com/
I purchased mine from Ian Cobb at: https://www.clockmaking-brass.co.uk/clock_construction_books.html
Lester Caine – Divisionmaster
https://medw.co.uk/wiki/DivisionMaster
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop, Part 5, by Clickspring.