Time to disassemble the YouTube Silver Play Button and test if it is magnetic or not! In this second part of my celebration of reaching 100K subscribers I get a little more emotional but do add some science about the magnetism of stainless steel.
I also reveal my purpose with the comments I asked you for in an earlier video.
Full music credits:
Willow and the Light by Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/
ISRC: USUAN1100591
Dream Culture by Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/
ISRC: USUAN1300046
I have changed my method ! Yes, after many years of doing things one way, I have decided to modify my method taking some better aspect from other similar videos.
I have decided that with hex core strings (I use D’addario) there is no real harm in pre-cutting them, as long as you pre0cut them in the right place ! I have also included the string stretching method – not previously shown.
New methodology for re-stringing slotted headstock guitars.
Requirements :
• A well lit worktop – with protective cover – carpet or towel
• String winder (I use an electric screwdriver with “Stewmac” adaptor)
• String winder/bridge pin extractor/pincer (Planet Waves or similar)
• Small pair of pliers
• Neck support.
• Digital tuner
Methodology :
1. Lay guitar on work top (protected with carpet or towel)
2. Use neck support – with headstock over edge of worktop.
3. De-tension all strings and remove strings – use pliers as necessary
4. Remove strings from bridge – using bridge pin extractor
5. Dispose of strings safely
6. (Optional) Clean guitar as you prefer
7. (Optional) Check interior for dust, detritus, and loose struts etc.
8. Open new string pack , unwind and lay on worktop
9. Insert ALL strings into appropriate pin holes and secure with bridge pins
10. Pull strings gently but firmly to ensure securely held
11. Check by feel or mirror (inside body) that all strings correctly set with barrels between bridgeplate and bridge pins
12. Pull strings gently but firmly to ensure securely held
13. Lay strings in a sheaf across the body and out of your way.
14. Set all tuning machines to suitable angle for barrel holes to accept strings
15. Take 1st and 6th strings (or on 12 string 1st and 6th course), and lay string straight across fretboard to headstock – CUT strings app. 1.5-2” longer than where string meets the tuner barrel
N.b. – I prefer to work from outside to in because I find it easier:
16. Using pliers make 90 degree kink in end of string – ¼” to ½” from end.
17. Using winder (screwdriver or manual) to wind on the two cut strings.
N.b. – For these two strings, I like to wind with initial wind “inside” then rest outside – so that string winds straight over nut.
18. Repeat with 2nd & 5th strings/course, cutting 1.5-2” longer than where string passes over appropriate barrels
N’b. – I wind 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th outside for first wind then inside for the rest – again, keeping strings as straight over the nut as possible.
This enables strings to be as straight as possible over nut – thereby causing less sideways tension, wear, and potential string capture.
19. Bring all to tune.
20. Grasp each string firmly and stretch slightly two or three times.
21. Retune.
July 2016.