https://www.homeownerseries.com
This is video #2 of a 3-part series. The videos are:
Part 1 = https://youtu.be/8xlJXrSK3ag?hd=1
Part 2 = https://youtu.be/BLDvTRZlyCo?hd=1
Part Overview = https://youtu.be/KCPlbiTcLc4?hd=1
To watch the Flush Valve Playlist = https://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=31C570921B83280C
Flush Valve
Parts Needed
Before this project is started a new flush valve kit will need to be purchased at a hardware or plumbing supply store. This kit should include the flush valve assembly, which is the overflow tube and seat, seals and lock nut, flapper valve with lift chain and a sponge gasket. Additionally, a supplemental sponge gasket may need to be purchased depending on the curvature of the connection between the tank and the base. The last items that need to be purchased are new tank mounting bolts. Generally, a tank will require two or three mounting bolts so purchase enough for your given toilet.
Tools Needed
The tools necessary for this project are an adjustable open-end wrench or socket wrench, a large sponge, a flat-head screwdriver, a pair of rib-joint pliers, a cement mixing tub, a small plastic container, and possibly a mini-hacksaw.
Replacement
Before beginning this repair shut off the water supply, remove the lid to the tank, and flush the toilet. Once the tank is mostly empty, sponge out the rest of the water draining it into the toilet’s bowl. With the tank empty, position a plastic container to collect water under the water supply hose and unscrew the hose from the base of the tank, having any water drain into the plastic container below. To remove the tank, its mounting bolts will need to first be unscrewed.
Using the flat head screwdriver to hold the head of the bolt, and an adjustable open-ended wrench to loosen the nut remove all of the tank mounting bolts. If the bolts are corroded and too difficult to unscrew, cut through them with a mini-hacksaw. When the bolts are free lift the tank off of the base and place it into the cement-mixing tub.
With the tank on its side peel off the sponge gasket reveling the lock nut. While holding onto the flush valve assembly inside the tank, unscrew the lock nut from the base of the tank using a pair of rib-joint pliers.
With the assembly disconnected from the tank unhook the chain from the flush handle, and remove the old flush valve assembly. Take the new flush valve assembly insuring that its seal is in place, and insert it into the tank of the toilet with the overflow tube at the ten o’clock position. Then place the external seal on the flush valve and hand-tighten the lock nut. Finally tighten the lock nut with rib-joint pliers and affix the sponge gasket over the lock nut. Reattach the flapper valve to the overflow tube and the chain to the flush lever.
Insert the tank mounting bolts with washers back through the openings in the base of the tank, once they are in place set the tank back on the base of the toilet lining up the mounting bolts with their corresponding openings in the toilet’s bowl. Hand tighten the lock nuts on the mounting bolts and finish off using the screwdriver and socket wrench to secure the bolts water tight with no movement between the tank and the base.
Now that the tank is re-installed the mounting bolts depending on personal preference, may be trimmed within a quarter inch from the lock nut, using a mini hacksaw. Reattach the water supply hose and turn on the water supply valve. The tank should begin to fill. As the tank fills inspect the joint between the base and the tank for any leaking. Once the tank is full make any adjustment to the overflow tube, flush valve and tank fill valve for optimum water level. With all adjustments complete test cycle the toilet and replace the toilet’s tank lid.
Take a look at what it takes to install a Snow Sport 180 Snow Plow. Once it’s on your truck, winter will be easier to manage! Go to https://www.realtruck.com/snowsport-180-utility-snow-plow/ for more information or to order yours today.
877-216-5446
https://www.RealTruck.com
Video Transcript:
This video is to be used in conjunction with your owner’s manual, to assist you in the assembly and mounting of your new SnowSport 180 plow. You will need a 2″ rear receiver hitch installed on your vehicle. For best results, the receiver hitch should be eight to sixteen inches above grade.
Next you will want to gather the tools shown on the list: Ratchet with 9/16″ socket, drill with 5/16″ drill bits, 3/4″ box wrench, 7/16″ open end wrench, 3/16″ Allen wrench and protective eyewear.
Step 1: Each end of the rubber cutting edge has 2 factory marks to match with holes in the skid bracket. Drill them out with a 5/16″ drill bit. Place a skid bracket at these locations and tighten carriage bolts until their heads sink flush with the rubber surface. Repeat this procedure at the other end. The skid bracket should align flush with or slightly above the bottom of the rubber cutting edge.
Step 2: Align the groove on the rubber cutting edge with the channel in the blade so the skid brackets face the back of the blade. Slide the rubber cutting edge into the channel and center it on the blade.
Step 3: Place the slide hinges on the blade and align the lower holes with the factory marks on the blade. When mounted, the slide hinges should measure about 14-1/2″ apart.
Step 4: Insert 2 square nuts into the channel at the end of the blade and slide them over to line up with the holes of the top of the slide hinges. Insert bolts through holes in slide hinge and thread onto the nuts inside the channel. Make sure both lower holes in the slide hinge are still in line with the factory marks on the blade, and tighten the top 2 bolts. Repeat at the other end.
Step 5: With the rubber cutting-edge centered on the blade, use the 2 lower holes in each of the slide hinges as a guide to drill a 5/16″ hole through the first layer of aluminum and partially into the rubber. Turn the 3/8″ thread cutting bolt into each hole and tighten to secure each hinge. At the factory mark near each end of the blade, drill a 5/16″ hole through the first layer of aluminum and partially into the rubber. Turn a 3/8″ thread cutting bolt into each hole and tighten.
Step 6: Insert the interceptor into the 2″ receiver with the leg turned up. Now insert the hitch pin through the mount and hole in the interceptor and secure with the hair pin. Hold the push frame up in line with the pair of holes on the interceptor that when bolted will hold the push frame 6″ to 8″ above grade. Place a ½” x 4″ bolt with a flat washer through each hole and turn on and tighten the lock nuts.
Step 7: Now hang the blade on the push frame in the transport position, and insert the key hole pins. Push the set collar up against the receiver, hold in place and tighten the set screw with a 3/16″ Allen wrench.
Step 8: Insert a square nut, flat side up, into the channel at the top of the blade. Now align the blade marker with the edge of the blade. Turn the base fully into the square nut and tighten the jam nut. Repeat this procedure for the blade marker on the opposite end.
The installation of the plow is now complete and your plow is ready for the winter season.