DIY Dad – Build a loft bed for your kids! – FREE loft or bunk plans – Perfect for saving space! It’s a custom loft bed designed for your kids!
Here is my video of a DIY custom loft bed that I built for my daughter. The bed frame is wider than the mattress for extra stability. I added a desk top and tap LED lights underneath so she can do homework. There is plenty of room to add a small dresser or chair underneath as well. This loft also features a removable safety guard rail which can be easily removed for mattress changing, sheet changing, etc. Thanks for watching! See below for the supplies, lumber and approximate cut list (not exact!). The reason I chose to do it this way instead of a purchased woodworking plans is that the wood working plans did not allow me to create a custom loft bed that met the needs I had for the project. I was able to customize this loft by using a “fly by the seat of my pants” mentality. It worked out really well!
Supplies list: Power Drill (having 2 helps), 3/8″ wood bit, 90 degree square, 90 degree triangle, Extension cords (2″-3″ wood screws), various nails and screws (helps to have extras). Hammer, pencil, extension cord, circular saw, level, wood clamps (I got by with 2), tape measure.
Had to buy:
2 Brass handles, 2×4 joist hangers (4 of them), 3/8″ bolts (6″ long, 26 of them used – could use more if desired), washers and nuts for 3/8″ bolts (do not use lock nuts shown),
3M Safety Walk TM tape, 2×4 connectors (4 of them), 2 attachable coat hangers. 3 battery-operated tap lights, 3″x.75″ corner braces (x8), used counter top from habitat restore, used shelves from habitat restore.
Lumber List:
4x4s (8 feet long – x4)
2x4s (8 feet long – x8-10)
2x6s (8 feet long – x8-10)
Cut List
End Frames (x2)
4x4s – 2 cut at 7 ft each
2x6s – 1 cut at 45.5″
2x4s – 2 cut at 45.5″ each
Bed Frame Connectors:
2x6s – 2 Cut at 75″ each
Back Side Safety Rails:
2x4s – 2 cut at 75″ each
Bed frame joist supports:
2x4s – 2 cut at 75″ each (measure first)
Bed Frame Cross Supports:
2x6s – 6 cut at 45.5″ each
Desk Support:
2×6 – 1 cut at 75″ (Back)
2×6 – 1 cut at 45.5″ (left side, unused for desk support)
2×6 – 1 cut at 40.75″ (right side used for desk support)
2×6 – 1 cut at 15.75″ (parallel with ladder rungs)
Front Safety Rail:
2x4s – Vertical – 2 cut at 2 ft
2x4s – horizontal – 2 cut at 49″
2x4s – 2 blocks salvaged from previous cuts
Ladder:
2×4 – 1 vertical cut at 65″
2x4s – 7 horizontal cut at 21″ (rungs)
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Check out my channel and SUBSCRIBE HERE!
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnkaAF_DxOMnEW1j1vZT0bA
Here are some samples of my other videos:
BEST EVER Bike Chain Removal Tool | ParkTool CT-3.2 Bicycle Chain Remover Product Review: https://youtu.be/VCQ02LF6CP0
KeySmart is the BEST Minimalist Key Chain EVER! | Key Smart Key Chain Product Review!
DIY Balance Bike | DIY Dad | Transform your kid’s bicycle into a balance bike! – Convert to Strider Bike!
All Thumbnails are either created using the YouTube Create Thumbnail feature, or downloaded from www.Pixabay.com and protected under Creative Commons, Royalty-free License. Music from www.Bensound.com where noted. All video and audio are original works of the Dad Life Channel.
I too have had the 2004 KIA Sorrento crank shaft bolt break twice. Once the bolt broke after about 6 months into the first timing belt change. I took it to the dealer and they were going to charge me $150 to see if it was broken, and then refund me the money when they fix it. It was 30 days from the recall cutoff. The bolt partially came out then seized in the crank shaft. Upon removal the bolt then snapped off. I then drilled out the center, put in an extractor and the extractor snapped off. I then tapped out the bolt with a smaller tap then went to the same size as the bolt thread tap. I replaced the bolt with a new bolt. Three years later it broke again. This time I used the centering jig from [url]https://brokencrankshaftbolt.com/[/url] this made it much easier drilling out the center of the bolt. I heated the bolt to remove any lock tight and the bolt came right out with an extractor. I then drilled out the crank shaft and put in a 5/8 grade 8 bolt with a “spider’ type lock washer and lock tight. The fix seems to be working great. I think the “Heavy Headed” original bolt is a very bad design, as the thick massive bolt head is actually longer then the bolt, causing centrifugal forces that aren’t needed. The standard grade 8 bolt, as used on most crank shafts, seems to work great. I also had to drill out the new harmonic balancer and washer to accommodate the larger 5/8′s bolt. I will try the softer belt tighten technique too. The fact that the harmonic balancer almost sits flush on the end of the crank shaft with no woodruff key (just a roll pin) seems to be a bad design too (have not ever seen this done). This 2004 Sorrento now has 160K on it. Very strong engine, still has a drinking problem.
Update:
I have had the crank shaft bolt break 2x and unscrew 2x. I have learned a lot. Taped out the crank shaft to receive a larger grade 8 bolt. As well as made the hole larger on the washer and Harmonic balancer pulley. Put a star lock washer on it. Torqued to 130lb with lock tight RED. A year later it loosened and sheared the timing gear pin (this is much better then shearing off inside the crank shaft like before). Bought another harmonic balancer and crank timing gear. This time I’m putting on a very heavy duty grade 8 lock washer and lock tight RED & 130lbs torque. Also put in 2 more pins in the timing gear at my local machine shop see attached pictures. So this gives it a total of three pins between the crank shaft timing gear and the harmonic balancer.
I spoke to the local Kia parts dealer and he said this engine is in 2 other Kia’s but transverse mounted with no problems. My theory is there is so much weight out there that it pulls itself apart moving up and down from the road. Since there is no woodruff key on the harmonic balancer and it doesn’t slide onto the crank shaft (like every other engine on the road) I thought 2 more pins might keep the slipping at bay. The balancer pulleys gotta weigh 15-20lbs and that’s a lot of weight spinning out there on one bolt. It’s just a bad design that needs help. I’ll repost if this doesn’t work. I should sell it but it’s the kid’s college car and other then the “y” in the heater hose and all the plastic covers turning into crayon and the head lights burning out every 6 months, and the drinking problem , , , , , it’s been a pretty good car. Mark Peveler702-379-7357 MarkPeveler@cox.net
UPDATE 28OCT14
This fix failed one year out, but the bolt didn’t break or cross thread. I will either tap in 3 or 4 flat head screws with hex drive or threaded in studs, then sand blast all compression surfaces. I will cross hatch washer as well. The Sorrento has 188K. It’s paid for and I don’t want car payments so I’ll fix it again. The benefit with the bigger bolt is it didn’t break, just lost power steering. Still ran well even though pulley didn’t turn.
UPDATE 8DEC14
New Pulley/Harmonic Balance and timing belt gear. Put in 3 Allen cap screws though pulley and into gear. Cap screws sit proud and washer was cut to allow protruding cap screws into washer. Instead of #130 lbs torque I went with #150 lbs torque on the 5/8 Grade 8 bolt. Protruding allen cap head screws should keep any movement between gear and pulley as well as washer sliding. A 6 month torque check will be in order.