Build at your own risk. I would say this is hard to do and needs a helper. Using a 79cc. Predator engine from “Harbor Freight” a hardware store.
Also a couple of funny things.
The engine seems to be mounted backwards.
The exhaust points right at your legs.
The on/off switch is on the front of the engine away from you.
The pulls start, pulls to the front of the snow blower instead of to the back. (where you are)
The air cleaner is in back away from flying snow, that’s good.
All the controls are on the engine.
Some assembly tips…
Use the engine mounting plate that came with it.
The handle bar can be removed to easier install the new engine. The bottom handle bar bolt, engine side, will hit the engine case. Use a shorter bolt or cut the original one shorter.
The snow thrower drive pulley is two pieces and needs a engine shaft spacer to push them together. Use the one that came off the engine shaft first, to hit the engine drive shaft taper and a 3/4 copper pipe coupling or steel pipe. The copper pipe coupling or better, steel pipe will have to be cut or grind down to approximate length of 1 1/2 inches, to have a exact pulley alignment. Also apply permanent thread lock, the red stuff, to the shaft bolt.
The new engine will mount to the per-made holes in the snow thrower body but a motor brace is needed under the engine and four holes will need to be drilled into the body sides. Angle iron will make the bracket. Also apply permanent thread lock to the four engine mounting bolts when installing the engine.
The wheels have to come off to drill holes in the side of the snow thrower body. Twist off the axle flat star lock washer with pliers and you could reuse them.
Parts you will need…
3/4 copper pipe coupling or steel pipe to be used on the engine shaft as a pulley spacer cut to a exact length.
1 1/2” X 1 1/2” X 3 feet 14 gauge, Plated Steel Slotted Angle Iron
BOLTS TO MOUNT THE ENGINE
5/16”-24 X 3/4” Grade 5 SAE Hex Cap Screws (4)
5/16”-24 Hex Nuts (4)
5/16” Split Lock Washers (4)
BOLTS TO MOUNT THE ANGLE IRON BRACE
AND ENGINE TO BRACE
5/16”-18 X 3/4” Grade 5 USS Hex Cap Screws (8)
5/16”-18 Hex Nuts (8)
5/16” Split Lock Washers (8)
Installing a new door can update a weathered door, give your home a more contemporary look and improve the safety and security of your home. For this project you will need a new pre hung door, drill and driver bits, hammer and nail set, screwdrivers, reciprocating saw, pry bar, caulk, level, square, tape measure, utility knife, nails, screws, shims, foam insulation, putty knife and shop towels. Before you get started, measure the width, height and depth of your door you have now. Your new door should be ½” less in height and ¾” less in width of the rough opening.
Getting started, remove any installation that surrounds the door. Remove the door from the hinges using a hammer and nail set, the hinges from the jam with a screwdriver and the screws from the sill and the jam. Remove the door frame. You may need to pry the installation off, so use your pry bar to do so.
The sill is where the door will sit. Make sure that it is square and level. Make any adjustments with shims. Also make sure that the door swings open without any force. Measure the bottom of the sill to the bottom of the door and check it against your flooring. Next apply caulk to the sill. With the help of a friend, gently lift the door into place and use shims to hold it in place. Adjust the frame so it is level.
Next drive screws into the hinges. Check to make sure that the shims are keeping the frame level. Typically a 1/8″ gap should surround the door. Once the door is in place, apply light expanding installation foam between the gaps. Remove any excess foam once it’s dried with a putty knife. Reattach the trim. If your door requires a stain, remove the door from the hinges and apply the stain. When your stain is dry, rehang your door. Add a fashionable knob and deadbolt, and enjoy your new door. Learn how to install a deadbolt lock in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kW_SOu-AZyw
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