Wholesale Dealers of ASTM A193 A320 B8 Threaded Stud Bolts for Oman Importers

ASTM A193 A320 B8 All Threaded Stud Bolts Standard: IFI-136, ASME B16.5, DIN976 Inch Size: 1/4”-4” with various lengths Metric Size: M6-M100 with various lengths Other Available Grade: ASTM A193/A193M B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2, ASTM A320/A320M B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2 Finish: Plain, PTFE etc. Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet Advantage: High Quality and Strict Quality Control, Competitive Price,Timely Delivery; Technical Support, Supply Test Reports Please feel free to contact us for more details.

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    Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
    installation instructions and specs for complete information.
    Today we are going to do an install of part number 66067 we have a full size van and an enclosed toy hauler and as you can see here it is kind of sloping down pretty bad. We will go ahead and install weight distribution to help straighten things out. To begin our install we have to uncouple the truck and trailer, get the trailer level and get the measurement off the ball mount. At this point we can go ahead and pull the van out of the way and get a little more working room. We will go ahead and take out the ball mount and then then go ahead and measure for a rise or if needed for the shank for the weight distribution. What we are going to do is measure from the bottom of the coupler to the ground and that is 22 inches. We will do the same thing for the vehicle. We will measure from the top of the hitch on the vehicle to the ground. Roughly it will round off to 18 inches so we will need to raise it 4 inches.

    Now we just pick out a shank with a 4 inch rise to it. Next we will go ahead and loosely install the head assembly on our shank and adjust it as close as we can to the couplers 22 inch height. We will go ahead and install our adjusting washers. To adjust the tilt of the head you just turn these washers here to make it go up or down as needed. Once you have the hitch set the height you want, if it is in between always go with the next higher slot up. Because it is better to have it up to take care of any vehicle squat when you put the weight on the trailer hitch. Go ahead and install the ball on here. Turning it sideways will make it easier to tighten down. We will go ahead and tighten up the bolts that hold down the head assembly. Next we need to get a few measurements on the van before we put the weight on there. We will measure from the top of the wheel wells then down to the ground and note those. Ideally we want to have about a 1/2 inch of sag overall and the rear measurement should not sag more than 1/2 inch. Looks like the back wheel is 36 and the front wheel is 35. We will go ahead and attach our chains to our spring bars here. They just attach them with a U bolt. Go through a couple of washers and lock nuts. It does not have to be super tight either just tighten them down a few threads past the nut will be fine

    The next part is to go ahead and put the trailer back on the truck and get it back to original ride height. We will go ahead and install our swing bars and locate where our lift lock brackets need to go. What you want to do is go ahead and pull up the chain as straight as possible until it gets vertical. Then line the lift lock bracket just with it. That will give us plenty of clearance for this little ferrying here. Once we have our alignment set we will go ahead and put a few marks on here just so we know where to place it when we put it back. We will take it off and then put our set bolts back in and reinstall it. Once you have it set you want to tighten down your set screw tightened right until it touches then about a half turn it will fall into place. Then go ahead and repeat for the other side. Now at this point you have the trailer and the van coupled up. We will go ahead and raise both of them with the trailer jack. Rise it back up to original trailer height. Then we will install our chains and see how our dimensions come out on the wheel wells. One note is you should have a minimum of 5 links showing. So I think we will be on 7 maybe. We will go ahead and pull it up and repeat for the other side. Now we will take the tension off of the jack and let the bars do all the work and check our measurements. Go ahead and measure here 35-1/2. About a 1/2 inch difference which is just fine. Then 35-1/4 which is pretty close. The rear was okay but the front did not settle like it was suppose too, in fact it went up just a little bit. Also one detail we will look for is that the spring bars if you notice should be parallel to the bottom of the tongue.



    Learn how to install a SnowSport snow plow and benefit from it next time it snows! Go to https://www.realtruck.com/snowsport-hd-utility-snow-plow/ to learn more. The SnowSport HD Utility Snow Plow mounts easily using a 2″ front or rear receiver hitch.

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    https://www.RealTruck.com

    How to Install a SnowSport HD Utility Snow Plow
    Video Transcript:

    This video is to be used in conjunction with your owner’s manual, to help you with the assembly and mounting of your new SnowSport HD plow. You will need a receiver plow mount hitch installed on your vehicle before starting the plow assembly. Follow the written instructions for the mount kit for your particular model of truck.

    Next, you will want to gather the tools showing on the list: Torque wrench, impact or ratchet with 9/16″ and ¾” socket, drill with 3/16″ and 5/16″ drill bits, #3 Phillips driver bit, ¾” box wrench, 5/16″ open end wrench, 3/16″ Allen wrench, bubble level and protective eyewear. Make sure your vehicle is parked on a level grade and you’re ready to get started.

    Step 1: Insert interceptor into receiver and secure with the hitch pin. The interceptor can be installed with the big leg turned either up or down as needed for proper push frame clearance (showing turned up in this video). Bolt the push frame to the proper hole pattern on the interceptor, using four ½” x 4″ bolts with flat washers and lock nuts. Leave bolts snug tight for now.

    Step 2: With the bolts snug tight, level the push frame horizontally. Then check push frame for vertical plumb. If plumb, tighten all 4 bolts and proceed. If not plumb, refer to the shimming procedure in step #2 of your owner’s manual.

    Step 3: Align the end of the rubber edge with the matching channel of the bottom section of the aluminum blade. Slide the rubber edge into the channel until it’s centered on the aluminum blade. Take the top half of the blade and connect the tongue and groove joint with the bottom half. Slide the top section until it’s centered on the bottom section.

    Step 4: At each end of the blade, insert 2 square nuts into each channel, flat side facing out. These nuts will be aligned with the holes at the top and bottom of the slide hinges. Place each slide hinge on the blade and align the edge of the hinge with the factory mark on the blade. When both hinges are properly aligned, they should measure 22-1/2″ apart. Turn the 3/8″ x ¾” hex bolts with flat washers into the nuts that were previously slid into the channels on both the top section of the blade and the bottom section of the blade. Double check to make sure each slide hinge is lined up with the factory mark. Then, tighten the hex bolts on the top section first. Then tighten the hex bolts on the bottom section. Using a 5/16″ bit, drill a hole through the blade in each factory punched hole on the slide hinge. Turn a 3/8″ x 1″ self-threading bolt into each drill down hole and tighten.

    Step 5: At the tongue and groove joint drill a 5/16″ pilot hole at the factory mark in the “V” groove at each end of the blade. For a 96″ wide blade, there will be an extra hole drilled and bolt installed per side (see step #6 in your owner’s manual). Turn a 3/8″ x 1″ self-threading bolt into each pilot hole and tighten. Using a torque wrench, tighten all 6 bolts in each slide hinge to 31 foot pounds.

    Step 6: At the bottom of the blade, double check that the rubber edges centered. Then, using a 3/16″ bit drill a pilot hole that each of the 4 factory marks in the “V” groove. Be sure to only drill through the first layer of aluminum and into the rubber. Using a #3 Philips bit, run a self-drilling screw into each of the 4 pilot holes; this prevents the rubber cutting edge from moving.

    Step 7: Now hang the blade on the push frame in the transport position and insert the keyhole pins. Insert 2 square nuts into the top channel. With a hex nut turned onto the stud of the blade marker, align the blade marker with the hole on the lift handle and bolt the marker and handle to the blade. Using one of the square nuts in the channel, turn a 3/8″ x ¾” bolt into the other hole on the handle and thread it into the second nut that was slid into the channel. With the handle flush with the blade edge, tighten both bolts connecting the lift handle to the blade. Repeat at the other end.

    Step 8: Attach the rubber box end to the blade using the metal cap plate and four 3/8″ x 2-1/2″ self-threading bolts. Tighten these bolts until the rubber end begins to compress to the blade. Insert a 5th bolt to tighten the bottom of the rubber end to the bottom of the metal cap plate. Secure this bolt with a flat washer and lock nut. Tighten all bolts equally and repeat at the other end.

    The installation of the plow is now complete and your plow is ready for the winter season.