For your taper and butt joints, you can use two methods: paper or mesh tape. The Coach explains why to use both methods.
To hide “butt joints” (where two non-tapered ends of drywall meet), you have to build up a hump of joint compound that’s very thin and wide. This is time consuming and difficult to do well. So if you’re a novice drywall finisher, avoiding butt joints is smart.
The best way to avoid butt joints is to use sheets of drywall that are long enough to cover entire walls and ceilings. As a result, you’ll have only tapered joints to finish. Drywall sheets are commonly available in 8- and 12-ft. lengths, and specialty suppliers carry 14-ft. sheets (in the yellow pages under “Drywall”).
If your ceiling is longer than 14 ft., you can’t avoid butt joints. But you can avoid butt joints on a wall that exceeds 14 ft. Simply hang the sheets vertically rather than horizontally. That way, you’ll have several tapered joints to cover, but no butt joints. Hanging drywall vertically is slower than hanging it horizontally because you have to make sure the tapered edges fall at the centers of studs. Cut the first sheet to width so the tapered edge lands on the center of a stud. After that, the edges of each sheet should fall perfectly on studs. If you run into misplaced studs, nail 2x2s to them. If you have 9-ft. ceilings, call a drywall supplier to find 10-ft.-long sheets.
Perhaps one of the least understood parts of installing an electric fan: Installing and wiring the controller. This Flex-a-lite controller turns the electric fan on and off according to the coolant temperature, and you can adjust where the fan turns on from approximately 180-240 degrees F. No relays are required if you use our controller with our electric fan. Wiring the controller is simple, and following our directions will give you years and years of trouble-free operation.