Spring Lock Washers Price - Segment Bolts for Construction Machinery – Dingshen Metalworks
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What to do when you need to cut up rather big solid blocks of steel, brass or aluminium? You can mutilate them with angle grinders or try to cut it up in a milling machine, but the most convenient way is an electric / automatic hacksaw or band saw. Unfortunately most of those are large space eating cast iron monsters. There are no (at least non that I know of) good industrial smaller types, so there is only one way to go: the DIY-way…
Inspired by the very nice electric hack-saw made by myforboy (watch it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5Tu_zoO828 ) I start building one myself. It’s a very straight forward machine, but there are a few very unforgiving and important parts that will need al your efforts to get it right (at least: I had to…)
For al the DIY-mechanics and machinists out there who are also thinking about building one there self, here’s what I used, had to buy and could use out of the old scrap & junk-box, and some problems I encountered.
the biggest problem I encountered was to get the whole thing rigid. Without rigidity you will get a ‘walking’ saw that will find it’s own way through your workshop, house, street etc….
The most important part that will make or break it is (obvious) the saw and it’s sliding mechanism. I had to make a few different kind of ‘wagons’, but finally came up with the one you can see in the movie: a solid steel ‘wagon’ (I call it a wagon, can’t remember a better English word) that has a snug fit around a solid steel square bar. The top part of this wagon doesn’t have any hard work to do, so I made that part out of POM-plastic. Two grease nipples are for very easy oiling the wagon and sliding bar. Only thing I had to buy was the square steel bar, not very expensive.
The saw itself is a ordinary steel hacksaw for the common standard blades. The only thing I did is weld a piece of flat steel at the top, for rigidity and for easy connecting it to the wagon. At the top, just before the wagon I welded a metal ring with a spring loaded ball in it. This pushes the saw away from the square steel bar and works like a guide and shock absorber, I found out this little thing makes the whole machine a whole lot smoother then without it, so it’s something to consider also using when building our own.
Next important part (well, let’s face it: almost every part in such a straight forward and simple machine is important) is the power transmission: the motor and pulleys are from an old and broken down drill press (180 Watt), that’s connected to an axle which is placed in a gear reduction box, that on it’s part powers a eccentric placed drive-bar connected to the saw.
One thing I found out is: let the eccentric move counter clockwise, this will push the wagon a bit upwards on a saw stroke, you’ll get a steadier and smoother saw stroke then when the eccentric moves clockwise.
Had to buy the reduction gearbox, had to pay € 15 / $ 10 for it second-hand, so that’s not much I guess. You see in the movie the speed is moderate, I found out that faster strokes does not always equals faster cutting. Faster strokes can make the saw getting hot, make aluminium ‘pasty’, or just clogging up the whole thing with saw dust.
The rest is rather obvious I think: the vice is made out of an old spindle + it’s lead screw, saved from an discarded paper cutting machine. The The table is made out of a flat plate of steel that I found somewhere. The whole construction is build upon some very thick and strong synthetic building material, looks a bit like POM, but is more compact. Anyway: easy to handle and very strong.
Last thing to mention are the weights: I first had a 1,5 Kg block of steel placed upon the end of the square bar. But it was to heavy when cutting plastics, tubing or other softer materials it pushed the saw to fast through these materials. For steel it was just fine.
I cut three pieces of round stock (each around 0,5Kg and yes: I did it on this hacksaw 
Machined them on the lathe, made a parallel bar above the square sliding bar and voila: adjustable weights for rather precise vertical control. The pulleys give me the possibility to control the horizontal speed of the saw. Very convenient ’cause when cutting — let’s say — some kinds of aluminium I found out that a lower speed and a little heavier vertical load sometimes gives better and faster results.
Hope you enjoy the movie, comments are welcome!
Rough steps for w-body fuel pump replacement at bottom of descriptions. Supplies list below ~
Fuel Pump – https://goo.gl/orheok
Low profile 1/4″ ratchet – https://goo.gl/No7HFj
Metric 1/4″ Socket Set – https://goo.gl/YN38Pn
1/4″ Socket Extensions – https://goo.gl/jf9X2j
Screwdriver Set – https://goo.gl/3qOkk9
Wire strippers – https://goo.gl/79dTSa
Snap Ring Plyers – https://goo.gl/g5wj56
Fuel Pressure Guage – https://goo.gl/S9gKxb
Fuel Siphon – https://goo.gl/NgwvNx
5 Gallon Fuel Canister – https://goo.gl/15EbXo
or 2.5 Gallon Fuel Canister – https://goo.gl/yUaFXs
Duck / duct tape – https://goo.gl/GHAKYv
Lubricant for O-Ring / Tank Seal – https://goo.gl/XEvgEH
Shop Towels – https://goo.gl/NnX5Qq
Gloves – https://goo.gl/KLwcOA
Shop Vac – https://goo.gl/3kVec1
These are affiliate links
DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR WORK. THIS IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY.
This procedure should be similar for any W-body car, Buick Century, Buick LaCrosse, Buick Regal, Chevrolet Impala
Chevrolet Impala Limited, Chevrolet Lumina, Chevrolet Monte Carlo, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, Oldsmobile Intrigue, Pontiac Grand Prix ~ As demonstrated on 1998 Buick Century. Pleasure double check your car to ensure this will work.
NOTE: Best done with LOW tank close to empty. WORK IN WELL VENTILATED AREA! ALL CAR WINDOWS OPEN. TRUNK OPEN AND FAN TO PURGE OUT GAS FUMES.
Step 1 – Test fuel pump using test port on fuel rail. Normal operation at idle or prior to starting car (ignition on) should be between 35-40 PSI roughly (double check for your car).
Step 2 – Relieve fuel pressure. Pull fuel pump fuse and crank engine until it stalls.
Step 3 – Disconnect battery.
Step 4 – Open all garage doors and place fan in room.
Step 5 – Expose pump access panel. Clean trunk and remove spare tire. Remove back seat. Open trunk carpeting at seam.
Step 6 – Remove pump access panel. Use 10 mm socket.
Step 7 – Clean top of tank before removing pump. Use a tooth brush, mild cleaner, and shop vac to clean up and avoid dumping debris in tank.
Step 8 – Disconnect top of pump electrical connectors. Tape electrical connectors to side.
Step 9 – Use snap ring pliers to remove pump snap ring.
Step 10 – Disconnect fuel lines. Residual fuel will be in line so set rags underneath. Carefully disconnect the lines and save the line quick connect clips.
Step 11 – Carefully lift pump out allowing gas in the pump to drain into the tank. Save your o-ring seal as the new one may not fit.
Step 12 – Siphon out as much of the remaining gas as practical. Look to ensure tank is clean. If it is not you’ll need to drop it and clean the tank out. Not covered in this procedure however, this is one of the easiest tanks I’ve ever removed before.
Step 13 – Generously lubricate the o-ring seal and place it in the pump opening on the tank.
Step 14 – Gently lower the pump into the tank ensuring not to damage the input screen or level float.
Step 15 – Connect the fuel lines with the pump free.
Step 16 – Slide the snap ring on top of pump.
Step 17 – Using pressure but not so as to break pump, wiggle the pump as pressing down into the tank. It will eventually seat all the way in. This takes a LOT of effort. Tip slip the ring clamp into areas which it fits and continue wiggling until you’ve got the whole pump lock in place.
Step 18 – Splice in your new pumps connector (if necessary). Then connect the new pump.
Step 19 – Replace your fuel pump fuse and reconnect the battery.
Step 20 – While carefully watching the top of the fuel pump, turn your ignition to on. The pump will turn on and you should see NO LEAKS on the lines for the pump. If you do you need to better connect the fuel lines to the pump.
Step 21 – Start your car and take a closer look at top of pump while idling. Also look under hood to doubly check fuel line connections.
Step 22 – Re-install pump cover, back seat, and enjoy!
Troubleshooting / Check engine light is on.
If your car is throwing a engine code, chances are the o-ring seal did not seat correctly on your pump. Unfortunately you’ll have to re-install your pump to see that it does. While you’re re-installing the o-ring seal pull your ECM fuse to reset your DTC codes / engine light. Once you’ve got everything back up and running, let the car idle for a while. Your check engine light will go off after about 5 minutes if your codes didn’t reset but you did the repair correctly.