Fasteners, like screws, come with a variety of different head drive shapes. The ones that I want you to be able to identify are; straight/flat, Phillips, square, Allen, Torx, and hex head.
Straight or Flat head – Used to be used a lot in wood working way back but now are used mostly in electrical (wire terminals, face plate covers, etc). When using this type of driver head be sure to use the correct size; if not then you will either strip out the head or the driver. A straight head looks like a minus sign.
Phillips head – This is the most common type of driver head you will find and it looks like a plus sign. When using make sure you have the correct size driver (#1, #2, or #3) or you will easily strip the screw
Square drive – Like the name suggests the driver is in the shape of a square. Some times screws have just a recessed square on the top of the head but other times you can use these drives on “Phillips” heads. Certain screws are combining both the Phillips and square drive so that either can be used.
Torx head – This driver looks like a star with six points. This one is being seen more and more frequently because it has more contact points between the screw and driver than a Phillips head screw.
Allen wrench – This head type is most commonly used on set screws. The shape of this driver is a recessed hexagon. A set screw is most commonly used for holding something in place (wheel on an axle or bit in a counter-sink) or as a depth stop. A set screw can be identified as looking like a tiny bolt with the head cut off. In fact the head is actually the same diameter as the screw’s shank.
Hex head – This is most common on bolts and has a hexagon shape inserted and removed with a wrench or socket.
Customer Testimonial:
I just wanted to tell you about a repair that I made that I probably never would have even attempted without your SSF-6 Silver Solder. I have attached some before and after photos.
My customer sent me a cast iron body carburetor to repair that had a piece broken out of the casting at the threaded hole where the inlet fitting screws into. It was a 1/8 NPT fitting, and someone had just tightened it too much and broke the casting. The broken piece was long gone. Someone had previously tried fixing it with epoxy, but it had ultimately failed.
I clamped the casting into a large vise to act as a heat sink, and using a #3 torch tip, built up the area with SSF-6. After cooling for about 2 minutes, I carefully unscrewed the bolt. It had left almost a perfect set of threads in the SSF-6.
*Note: An oxyacetylene torch is required for cast iron repairs with SSF-6
Please read all instructions prior to use at: https://www.muggyweld.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/SSF-6-instructions.pdf
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