Part 4 Installing the Backer Board https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xue7liOgZoU
Part 5 Waterproofing and Mud https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2A9NVIRwr8k
Part 6 Corner seat and shower floor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFftfgWqZJ0
Part 7 Installing the tile https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1q7bIacGNhM
Part 8 Cutting in and Making a Recessed Niche https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTGB5Nn7LRE
Part 9 installing the bathroom floor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zLXk-rPd7w
Part 10 Grouting and caulking the tile https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAGOxC9t3WE
Part 1 Prepping walls, three piece drain explained https://i1.ytimg.com/vi/F8Gw6XFy3NI/mqdefault.jpg
Part 2 Installing the pre slope https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNsboWBwT1E
A pre pitch or pre slope under a shower pan liner is an essential part of a successful tile shower installation. A pre slope is the base under the shower pan liner which is pitched so that the any water that manages to get into the shower base can be directed to the weep holes in the three piece drain and out of the liner. If a pre slope is not installed under the liner then any water that filters into the base of the shower will remain there. To install a pre slope on a concrete base first spread a thin layer of thinset with a notched trowel, while it is still fresh, the deck mud is then shaped on top of the thinset so that there is a slope of ¼” per foot sloping towards the drain. The part of the base furthest away from the drain will be higher than the drain, so as to create a positive pitch towards the drain. How to install a vinyl shower liner. When installing a vinyl liner for the pan of a shower floor, it is imperative that any penetrations to secure the liner be above the level of the shower curb. Also the folds at the corners of the shower should always be done without cutting the liner lower than the shower curb. I do not install dam corners on the curb, because I apply a liquid waterproofing membrane on the surface of the entire shower stall, or at the very least the curb will be thoroughly waterproofed to avoid leeks in this critical area if this step is to be omitted, the dam corners should be used. The silicone bead at the drain where the liner is clamped to the 3 piece drain should always be applied, do not skip this step. How to install mud in a shower pan for a tile shower stall. When installing a tile shower, whether it be ceramic, marble travertine or any other tile product, a mud base will be required. Mud also known as deck mud, is a mixture of sand and Portland cement mixed to a ratio that will create a solid foundation for the tile which will be installed on it. The deck mud is mixed with water to a dump consistence which will allow the deck mud to hold its shape when pressed into a ball. The mud must be pitcher towards the drain so that a slope of at least ¼” per foot is achieved. The ratio of sand and Portland cement is usually 4:1 or 5:1. I usually use “Quikrete” sand topping mix, which as far as I know, has a ratio which is a little richer than needed, but is suitable for a shower pan. The method I employ to install my mud in shower pan, is to create a level and flat perimeter around the base of the shower walls which is at the correct height in relation to the drain, and then fill the middle part of the shower pan screeding down to the drain with the proper pitch. The mud is shaped with a wooden trowel, steel trowel, level and other pieces of straight wood lengths cut to the required lengths. In this video I demonstrate the technique I use to install a shower mud pan base. There are other methods that can be used, but this is the way I have installed hundreds of shower bases.
I hope anyone that watches this finds it helpful.
.All tile installed by Sal DiBlasi, Elite-tile Company, in the Boston North Shore area. This video contains affiliate links, which means I will receive a small commission if you click on the product link.
YouTube Channel
https://www.youtube.com/user/saldibs?feature=watch
Products available at
https://dibsmart.com/
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Website
https://www.elitetileco.com/
https://twitter.com/saldiblasi1
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National Tile Contractors Association
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An antique pot metal table leg that’s been broken in half is repaired with a propane torch and multi-metal solder Super Alloy 1.
Mike explains how to build up the heavy piece of pot metal, to join the broken pieces at 20,000 psi. He then turns the part over and repairs the other side using Super Alloy 1 and Heat Freeze Heat Paste (formerly Cool Blue)
Heat Freeze eliminates re-melting of the original solder and also acts as a jig to hold the part in place while making the repair.
Please read all instructions prior to use at: https://www.muggyweld.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Super-Alloy-1-instructions.pdf
https://www.muggyweld.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Heat-Freeze-instructions.pdf
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