Rocker box inspection caps off, I remove the spark plugs a quick look at the colour then kick the motor over until the exhaust rocker arms are level with each other then proceed to remove the exhaust rocker box, exposing the valves and push rods. The process is repeated for the inlet rocker box; kick the motor over until the rocker arms are level (this releases valve spring pressure) then remove the inlet rocker box, on removing pushrods it is very important to keep them in order and the correct way up as they should go back in, exactly as they came out and the right way up. Getting old stuck gaskets off can be a pain, you will notice I use a large sharp hacksaw blade sharpened like a wood chisel, used sloped side up at a shallow angle it is by far the best tool I have found over the years, care must be taken not to damage the facings whatever you use.
Removing the cylinder head, bolts should be slackened in the same order as you would tighten them; this brings the head off square, removing the cylinder head studs you will notice the small washers have recessed into the head slightly.
There is a Triumph Parts Bulletin # LFH 84-8 stating the 4 washers on centre studs and the 4 on the outer bolts should be changed for the larger washer # 82-2184, the larger washer increases surface area therefore improve retention. As my washers have already recessed the head a larger washer would only make contact around the edge of the recess until it sunk to the same depth, on a flat face large washer great idea.
With all bolts and studs removed the head is pulled off trying to leave push rod tubes stuck on the tappet block, with the cylinder head off I take a look at the bores and pistons well worn but no marks or scratches, then I drain out the gear box oil pointing out the level plug while the oil is draining, the front foot rests and the outer gearbox casing are removed and the clutch cable disconnected. Then onto the timing chest the first thing to be removed is the ignition cover this allows access to in my case Boyer ignition, disconnect and remove stator plate and the rotor allowing removal of the timing cover.
Make things easy on yourself. The complete bearing is available here. No press or fighting necessary!
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-83231-4110446.aspx?origin=keyword
While getting a free tire rotation, Cameraman Brian was told he needed a front wheel bearing on his 2005 Toyota 4Runner. I told him it would make a great video so we brought it into the shop to shoot the video.
This job turned out to be more than I bargained for. I ended up getting quite a work out from swinging my hammers. Yes, I used all my hammers on this job. I also put some miles in chasing the right parts. If you watching this Moog, change your listing for this part as it does NOT include the hub as you have listed in your catalog. In fact, I don’t see how you could include the hub without also including the fasteners for the wheel bearing. There’s no way to get those in there without separating the hub from the bearing.
Still, we got through it and made this video. Cameraman Brian is now VERY happy with his new wheel bearing, hub, and axle.
As for symptoms, he had an occasional noise when moving from reverse to drive, but that’s about it. Like I say in the video, when wheel bearings get quiet, that’s when you start to worry. Also, a problem like this does NOT cause a vibration, according to popular belief.
If you decide to do this job yourself, I recommend you get a hub as well as a bearing to avoid all the issues I went through in this video. Also, a shop press would come in very handy for this job.
Camera: Brian Kast
Thanks for watching!
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