ASTM A193/A193M B7 All Threaded Rods All Threaded Bars
API Flange Valve Wellhead All Thread Stud Bolts
Alloy steel bolting for pressure vessels, valves, flanges, and fittings for high temperature or high pressure service, or other special purpose applications.
Standard: IFI-136, DIN975
Inch Size: 1/4”-4” with various lengths
Metric Size: M6-M100 with various lengths
Other Available Grade:
ASTM A193/A193M B7, B7M, B16 B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2,
ASTM A320/A320M L7, L7M, L43, B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2, and so on.
Finish: Plain, Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, Zinc Nickel Plated, Cadmium Plated, PTFE etc.
Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet
Advantage: High Quality and Strict Quality Control, Competitive Price,Timely Delivery; Technical Support, Supply Test Reports
Please feel free to contact us for more details.
ASTM A193
Scope
Originally approved in 1936, this specification is heavily utilized in petroleum and chemical construction applications. The ASTM standard covers alloy steel and stainless steel bolting materials for high temperature service. This specification includes fasteners intended for use in pressure vessels, valves, flanges, and fittings. Although, this material is often available in national coarse (UNC) thread pitches, if being used in traditional applications, threads are specified 8 threads per inch (tpi) for diameters above one inch.
Below is a basic summary of a few of the common grades. ASTM A193 covers a number of other standard specifications not covered in this description including B5, B6, and B16.
Grades
| B7 | Alloy steel, AISI 4140/4142 quenched and tempered |
| B8 | Class 1 Stainless steel, AISI 304, carbide solution treated. |
| B8M | Class 1 Stainless steel, AISI 316, carbide solution treated. |
| B8 | Class 2 Stainless steel, AISI 304, carbide solution treated, strain hardened |
| B8M | Class 2 Stainless steel, AISI 316, carbide solution treated, strain hardened |
Mechanical Properties
| Grade | Size | Tensile ksi, min | Yield, ksi, min | Elong, %, min | RA % min |
| B7 | Up to 2-1/2 | 125 | 105 | 16 | 50 |
| 2-5/8 - 4 | 115 | 95 | 16 | 50 | |
| 4-1/8 - 7 | 100 | 75 | 18 | 50 | |
| B8 Class 1 | All | 75 | 30 | 30 | 50 |
| B8M Class 1 | All | 75 | 30 | 30 | 50 |
| B8 Class 2 | Up to 3/4 | 125 | 100 | 12 | 35 |
| 7/8 - 1 | 115 | 80 | 15 | 35 | |
| 1-1/8 - 1-1/4 | 105 | 65 | 20 | 35 | |
| 1-3/8 - 1-1/2 | 100 | 50 | 28 | 45 | |
| B8M Class 2 | Up to 3/4 | 110 | 95 | 15 | 45 |
| 7/8 - 1 | 100 | 80 | 20 | 45 | |
| 1-1/8 - 1-1/4 | 95 | 65 | 25 | 45 | |
| 1-3/8 - 1-1/2 | 90 | 50 | 30 | 45 |
Recommended Nuts and Washers
| Bolt Grade | Nuts | Washers |
| B7 | A194 Grade 2H | F436 |
| B8 Class 1 | A194 Grade 8 | SS304 |
| B8M Class 1 | A194 Grade 8M | SS316 |
| B8 Class 2 | A194 Grade 8 | SS304 |
| B8M Class 2 | A194 Grade 8M | SS316 |
Strain hardened nuts available as a supplementary requirement
Video tutorial on how to replace a sway bar link. Normally the bushings will wear out over time, but in this scenario the center bolt broke. In the situation the center bolt broke on the other side, therefore both are being replaced. In the case that the bushings wear out, then you would hear a clunking sound when driving the vehicle or see that they are loose. If you remember, I released a video a couple months back on how to replace a sway bar link, but that was the ball joint style. This video however covers the other style found on some vehicles. This particular vehicle I am working with here is a 1998 Ford Ranger.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-ratchet and socket set
-wrenches
-new replacement sway bar link
-penetrating oil
-jack and axle stands or ramps
Procedure:
-I have elevated the vehicle and removed the wheel for better access, sometimes these can be removed with the vehicle on the ground and the wheel turned or on ramps
-first start by removing the top bolt
-when removing this bolt, you will need to ensure there is no tension on the sway bar as you don’t want this popping back at you
-I do have an axle stand to take the weight off the suspension to control the tension on the sway bar
-next remove the nut connecting the link to the control arm
-you will need to gain access to it underneath, considering it’s on a threaded stud, you may need to use a deep socket
-I will need to hold it into place using locking pliers to prevent the link from spinnig
-once the nut has been removed, the link can be taken out of it’s position
-the bushing does slightly interlock with the sway bar from it’s age so the control arm will need to be dropped slightly
-it might take a little force as the one rubber bushing is still stuck in place
-how the assembly installs together, first is the main bolt, metal washer, rubber bushing and after that will be the control arm, rubber bushing, washer, metal spacer sleeve, washer, rubber bushing, sway bay, rubber bushing, washer, and finally the nut
-different types of sway bar link bushings are available such as polyurethane instead of rubber which will give a slightly different feel handling wise as they are stiffer, so this might be a consideration if you are wanting an upgrade over OEM
-install the new sway bar link with the washer and bushing pre-installed
-this can go on two different ways, either insert the bolt from the bottom through the control arm or from the top through the sway bay which will depend how much room you have, along with ensuring you have the clearance for the exposed thread after the sway bar is tightened down on the nut side
-install the bushing, washer, and spacer sleeve, then the washer and then bushing
-insert the bolt through the sway bar and finish up with the bushing and washer and finally the nut
-if you have problem starting the nut as there isn’t enough threads exposed, try adding some tension on the link back jacking up the control arm
-tighten down the assemble
-tightening procedures may between between sway bar designs and materials
-you may need to just tighten the link and stop until the rubber bushings start to expand, tighten and then back off a turn, torque to a specific specification, or tighten while the vehicle is on the ground
-reinstall the wheel and you’re done
-after about 500km or 300 miles, I would recommend visually inspecting the newly installed sway bar links and ensure they are tightened correctly as the rubber bushings may settle over a certain period of usage
Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don’t forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!
© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.
육각렌치볼트 (Hex SocketHead Cap Screw)
1.재질: Steel (SCM435) or Stainless(SUS)
2.표면 처리: 니켈, 아연, 무전해니켈 도금
3.사용: Profile 조립 및 Braket 조립시 사용