Manufactur standard EN14399-4 and 8 System HV Structural nuts to Frankfurt Importers
Manufactur standard EN14399-4 and 8 System HV Structural nuts to Frankfurt Importers Related Video:
CRUISIN CLASSICS is excited to offer a very high quality new build in the form of a 1970 Nova SS tribute. No expense was spared during the build of this extremely clean TRUE muscle car. Starting with a perfect rust free body finished with a show quality silver paint and new black vinyl top, the chrome, glass and bright work are found to be in excellent condition as well. The interior is very nice with excellent dash pad, carpet, door panels and new bucket seats. This Nova sets on 7″ Rally wheels with new trim rings and wrapped with like new Radial T/A tires. Powered by a brand new 383 Stroker engine with only a few hundred miles that was built with only the best of the best (See detailed list below). This awesome power plate is mated to a Muncie 4-speed manual transmission with a Hurst shifter backed by a 10 bolt Posi, 3.55 ratio with a 8.5″ ring gear. While being an absolute beast it is at the same time very driver friendly with power brakes, front Disc -rear drum, power steering and tilt wheel.
383 Stroker (NEW) build details
350 + .030 (4.030) 3.750 Stroke
Casting # 3970010 (4-bolt Main)
Hot tanked, shot peened, magnafluxed
Bored & honed with plate, decked
Brass freeze plugs
Eagle cast steel crank (3.750)
Externally balanced rotating assembly
Eagle I-Beam rods, 3/8 ARP cap screws
King bearings
Speed Pro Flat Pistons (H860CP30)
Hastings Moly rings
Comp Cams 305 Magnum Hyd. Cam & lifters
.525 lift,253 @ .50. 110 Lobe sep.
Liberty performance push rods (.100 Longer)
Scorpion Aluminum roller rockers, 1.5
Cloyes steel billet double roller timing chain
Mellings M-55 oil pump & pick-up
BRODIX IK 200 Aluminum heads
200 cc runners, 70 cc combustion chamber
2.02 & 1.60 Stainless valves, Viton seals
ARP head bolts with hardened washers
Edelbrock Performer RPM air gap intake
All new bolts through-out
All Fel-Pro gaskets
MUCH MORE
If you have any additional questions, please call one of our friendly sales staff at 614-276-7355 or Toll-Free 866-230-2851. We will be glad to help in any way including a walk-around for a more detailed description, any questions on financing, or perhaps an interest in our Sell Your Car Brokerage Program. In business since 1996, we have sold cars all over the world and we insist on giving the best personal service in the industry.
*Please note that we do our best to represent our vehicles honestly in our listings. We will recommend to the buyer, or a representative of the buyer (inspector, friend, family member), to do their due diligence and come up with their own conclusions before purchasing any vehicle.
Thank You from all of us at CRUISIN CLASSICS
For more photos and a video, please go to www.CruisinClassicsInc.com
What to do when you need to cut up rather big solid blocks of steel, brass or aluminium? You can mutilate them with angle grinders or try to cut it up in a milling machine, but the most convenient way is an electric / automatic hacksaw or band saw. Unfortunately most of those are large space eating cast iron monsters. There are no (at least non that I know of) good industrial smaller types, so there is only one way to go: the DIY-way…
Inspired by the very nice electric hack-saw made by myforboy (watch it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5Tu_zoO828 ) I start building one myself. It’s a very straight forward machine, but there are a few very unforgiving and important parts that will need al your efforts to get it right (at least: I had to…)
For al the DIY-mechanics and machinists out there who are also thinking about building one there self, here’s what I used, had to buy and could use out of the old scrap & junk-box, and some problems I encountered.
the biggest problem I encountered was to get the whole thing rigid. Without rigidity you will get a ‘walking’ saw that will find it’s own way through your workshop, house, street etc….
The most important part that will make or break it is (obvious) the saw and it’s sliding mechanism. I had to make a few different kind of ‘wagons’, but finally came up with the one you can see in the movie: a solid steel ‘wagon’ (I call it a wagon, can’t remember a better English word) that has a snug fit around a solid steel square bar. The top part of this wagon doesn’t have any hard work to do, so I made that part out of POM-plastic. Two grease nipples are for very easy oiling the wagon and sliding bar. Only thing I had to buy was the square steel bar, not very expensive.
The saw itself is a ordinary steel hacksaw for the common standard blades. The only thing I did is weld a piece of flat steel at the top, for rigidity and for easy connecting it to the wagon. At the top, just before the wagon I welded a metal ring with a spring loaded ball in it. This pushes the saw away from the square steel bar and works like a guide and shock absorber, I found out this little thing makes the whole machine a whole lot smoother then without it, so it’s something to consider also using when building our own.
Next important part (well, let’s face it: almost every part in such a straight forward and simple machine is important) is the power transmission: the motor and pulleys are from an old and broken down drill press (180 Watt), that’s connected to an axle which is placed in a gear reduction box, that on it’s part powers a eccentric placed drive-bar connected to the saw.
One thing I found out is: let the eccentric move counter clockwise, this will push the wagon a bit upwards on a saw stroke, you’ll get a steadier and smoother saw stroke then when the eccentric moves clockwise.
Had to buy the reduction gearbox, had to pay € 15 / $ 10 for it second-hand, so that’s not much I guess. You see in the movie the speed is moderate, I found out that faster strokes does not always equals faster cutting. Faster strokes can make the saw getting hot, make aluminium ‘pasty’, or just clogging up the whole thing with saw dust.
The rest is rather obvious I think: the vice is made out of an old spindle + it’s lead screw, saved from an discarded paper cutting machine. The The table is made out of a flat plate of steel that I found somewhere. The whole construction is build upon some very thick and strong synthetic building material, looks a bit like POM, but is more compact. Anyway: easy to handle and very strong.
Last thing to mention are the weights: I first had a 1,5 Kg block of steel placed upon the end of the square bar. But it was to heavy when cutting plastics, tubing or other softer materials it pushed the saw to fast through these materials. For steel it was just fine.
I cut three pieces of round stock (each around 0,5Kg and yes: I did it on this hacksaw 
Machined them on the lathe, made a parallel bar above the square sliding bar and voila: adjustable weights for rather precise vertical control. The pulleys give me the possibility to control the horizontal speed of the saw. Very convenient ’cause when cutting — let’s say — some kinds of aluminium I found out that a lower speed and a little heavier vertical load sometimes gives better and faster results.
Hope you enjoy the movie, comments are welcome!