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ASTM A325 Heavy Hex Structural Bolts
The bolts are intended for use in structural connections. These connections are covered under the requirements of the Specification for Structural Joints Using ASTM A325 Bolts, approved by the Research Council on Structural Connections, endorsed by the American Institute of Steel Construction and by the Industrial Fastener Institute.
Dimension: ASME B18.2.6
Thread Size: 1/2"-1.1/2" with various lengths
Grade: ASTM A325 Type-1
Finish: Black Oxide, Zinc Plating, Hot Dip Galvanized, Dacromet, and so on
Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet
Advantage: High Quality and Strict Quality Control, Competitive price,Timely delivery; Technical support, Supply Test Reports
Please feel free to contact us for more details.
Iranian Army Bell 214 'Big Lifter'. Builder/pilot - Rob Leigh.
The mechanics in this model are over 30 years old and it has undergone numerous transformations over the years. It started life around 1978 and was purchased from Dave Neiman models as a UH-1B Huey 'Iroquois' in kit form from Hirobo. Utilising a 45 size IC engine, it performed well until a light crash prompted my father to upgrade the head to the MkII, extend the blades, upgrade the power plant to an OS 61 FSH and with the purchase of a new Bell 214 Fuselage, it was transformed into a 'HeliSwiss' rescue Helicopter. This was flown for a few years, until she was retired to the loft. In January of 2011, I decided it would be nice to get 'the old bird' back in the air. I completely stripped her down to the last nut & bolt and rebuilt from the ground up.
After approx. 400 hours and around seven months she was finally flight ready. She was started for her initial test and it was soon apparent that due to the extra 'scale' weight generated by the cockpit, paint and extra detailing. The old 'OS' was not going to be able to sustain her in the air, without overheating!
In this latest re-incarnation, she has now been converted to electric power, utilising the original mechanics, exhaust holes filled and re-sprayed and keeping the original clutch. This gives an authentic sounding spool up, which was the hope with this new design. The heli sports a Scorpion 4035 400KV motor, with a Hawk 120Amp High Voltage speed controller.
It is running 2 x 6S 2600MaH packs.
My ratio is 10:1 and this gives a head speed of around 1200rpm, although the KV/Cell count is a little too high, as I am only running the throttle curve at about 35%. Ideally it should be around 80% for maximum efficiency.
I perhaps should have gone for a 330KV motor and ran it on 10S, as opposed to 12S. Running as above though, the packs, motor & speed controller barely get warm, so it's not really a problem. The choice of using 2 x 6S packs was because I have a T-Rex 500 using the said packs, and I wanted to be able to use the same ones. I probably could have gotten away with a 4025 Scorpion motor as well, as it's got loads of power. But it was difficult to know as it was a bit of an unknown quantity.
Rob.
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OEM Customized Online Shop Custom Brass Hollow Standoff Bolts For Auto Spare Parts Car – Dingshen Metalworks Related Video:
***! TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK !****(still awaiting a period of “field testing” for these).
Energy Suspension bushing and inner sleeve installation without the use of a hydraulic press; just some hardware, a wrench, a socket and an air-powered impact gun.
Borrowed the idea and gained some more confidence for this installation process after watching GallowayChicago’s bushing install video; thanks man.
I tried to install the bushings using the bolt-press method, but the bushing would not quite fit– it would just compress and then when a little bit of the leading edge would go in, it would slip out and go crooked within the bolt-press jig.
I added relief cuts along the edge (one at a time across from each other; 6 was the min # that worked) after taking a cue from what appeared to be a relief spot in all of the bushings on the leading side (side that goes into the link or arm socket first; this side also appeared to have a tiny bit more taper than the other side as well). I started by making this relief deeper, then started adding slots, just as deep as the edge, being careful not to cut into the main cylindrical part of the bushing.
Materials:
1x- threaded rod (want this to be very close to the inner diameter of the metal sleeve insert of the bushings; length just needs to be long enough to fit the whole bolt-press-jig assembly together- so length of bushing + length of link/suspension arm socket + all other hardware thickness)
2x- grade 8 hex nuts
2x- large washers (want these to be able to cover and be a little larger than the largest diameter of the bushing, so the edge of the washer doesn’t cut into the bushing and the washer will help distribute the force exerted by tightening the nuts on the “bolt press jig”
2x-washers appropriately sized for the hex nuts being used (mentioned above)
*multiple washers between the sizes (2 of each, one for each side of the bolt press jig); just used to properly transition between the two other washer sizes used (large against bushing and hex-bolt-sized against the hex nut
- lots of appropriate type of grease, depending on what the bushings are made of (thankfully most Energy Suspension bushings come with just the right amount of “polyurethane-safe” grease.
Tools:
-compressed air source
-impact gun
-sockets for hex nuts
-adjustable or crescent wrench for hex nuts
- small saw or dremel with rotary cutting wheel
Steps:
1. using the small saw or dremel with cutting wheel make cuts perpendicular to the apex of the bushing surface, ONLY on the outer edge, being careful not to cut into the main cylinder body of the bushing; again just on the edge- this is only to provide enough “flex” for this larger outer edge to tuck and go through the link/ suspension arm’s socket.
2. put a hex nut on the threaded rod so that the nut fully threads on it, but only protrudes a slight amount if any, then the multiple sizes of washers small to large (consider space restrictions; may have to put rod through the link/suspension arm socket first and then start assembly of the jig; may have to thread the rod even further than just “fully seated” on the hex nut on the one side).
3. Put the threaded rod through the bushing on the opposite side of the link/ suspension arm socket, then stack the washers on top from large to small, followed by the hex nut
4. Grease EVERYTHING- lots of grease: inside link/ suspension arm socket, on leading face (slotted side) of bushing and the bushings exterior surfaces
5. Using impact gun (bushing side) and using wrench on opposite side, drive the hex nut down on the bushing side. May have to go slow at first to get the edges aligned and then just fully drive it in. The bushing will not go fully in, but just drive the hex nut tighter until no more forward progress is made.
6. Disassemble the jig and repeat the process for the inner sleeve (remember grease everything!). This time the inner sleeve should push the leading edge of the bushing fully through the link/suspension arm’s socket as long as there was plenty of grease available; if not, one can gently pry out the other side with an appropriate tool
*Tip: found the grease included with these is best removed from tools with a two step process: first WD-40, then Brake cleaner to remove the WD-40
Hope this helps. If anyone has any questions, please free to ask.