Factory Supplier for DIN 981, DIN 1805 Round Slotted Shaft Lock Nuts for Latvia Manufacturer

Round Slotted Shaft Lock Nuts (Nylon Insert) Standard: DIN 981, DIN 1805 Metric Size: M10-M100 Various Material Grade Are Available. Finish: Plain, Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, etc. Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet Advantage: High Quality and Strict Quality Control, Competitive Price,Timely Delivery; Technical Support, Supply Test Reports Please feel free to contact us for more details.

  • Factory Supplier for DIN 981, DIN 1805 Round Slotted Shaft Lock Nuts for Latvia Manufacturer Related Video:



    https://www.etrailer.com/tv-hitch-install-2003-ford-e250.aspx

    Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
    Today we are going to be installing Draw-Tite hitch part number 41926 on a 2003 Ford E250 van. We are underneath the vehicle and we are looking at the drivers side frame rail. We are going to go ahead and point out the mounting holes for the trailer hitch. As you can see, this particular van has multiple holes in the bottom of the frame we are going to be using three of them. We are going to start by using the rearmost hole here that has the double-plated end to it. We will be using the one right next to it here, as well, and then the one here. On some models, this carbon canister may interfere with you getting the bolt and block into place. If that is the case, you can take and remove the carbon canister by removing the nuts off of these two studs coming through the other side of the frame that are holding the carbon canister. And the mounting holes are going to be the same on the passengers side. So we are going to go ahead and put the bolt and block assemblies in place, and then we can go ahead and put the hitch up. You will note that there is a slight -off here in the double-piece metal to where the flat portion of the frame is here we are going to need to add a block in between the frame and the hitch when we put it up. We will not need one at the forward location, because you can see the frame slopes down and will level itself out when you put it up.

    We are going to be attaching to the bolts with the flat washer and nut at the bottom. And we just want to repeat that process for the other side as well. Now that we have got all the hardware in place, we can go ahead and tighten the bolts down. I am going to first come through with the air gun and get them snugged up. Then we will go back through with our torque wrench and torque them down to their specified torque ratings. OK, now we want to go back through and torque our bolts down. You want to check with the instructions to verify the appropriate torque rating for each individual bolt. And with all the bolts torqued down, our installation is complete. You want to make sure that if you had to remove your carbon canister earlier that you go ahead and bolt that back up. This will conclude the installation of hitch part number 41926 on a 2003 Ford E250 van. etrailer.com



    Subscribe to our channel for the latest updates and more! In this video we look at how to place ice screws. Ice screws offer protection for the lead climber in the event of a fall, the same way cams and stoppers do in rock climbing. Below are the steps for placing ice screws:

    Step 1: Turn one foot sideways if possible to help create a more comfortable stance while placing the screw.

    Step 2: Place the screw at waist level. This position allows the climber to maximize power without compromising balance. Placing a screw in a higher position minimizes power and affects balance.

    Step 3: Begin by pushing and twisting the screw into the ice until the teeth bite and hold the screw in place. Note that the angle should be slightly lower than perpendicular, as this is the strongest and most effective angle to place a screw (the strength actually comes from the threads pulling against the ice).

    Step 4: Pop out the “turbo” or crank, and continue screwing the piece into the ice. Be sure to return the crank to the original position, as the rope can potentially catch on this in a fall. These cranks, such as the “turbo” on the Black Diamond screw, have been rumored to sever ropes. You must return the crank to the original position!

    Step 5: Chip away any weaker surface ice around the screw that may have cracked during the placement, and set the screw so the hanger is flush with the ice and hanging downward.

    Please note that best practice / pull tests show we should back off the screw a bit, rather than over-crank it to get the hanger to sit flush on the ice. You can damage the thread placements by cranking the screw with too much force. This means if the hanger sits flush with the ice but is in the upward direction, it is best to un-thread a half turn to get the hanger to hang down, instead of cranking it tighter.

    Step 6: Once the screw is screwed in up to the hanger, clip a quickdraw to the hanger. Then clip your rope into the lower carabiner of the quickdraw, just like sport climbing. Be sure to avoid back-clipping the rope. For more on this see our video on “Avoid Back-Clipping” [hyperlink to video].

    Below are a few additional considerations when placing screws:

    - More often than not, the leader will need to place the screw with one hand, especially on steeper ice. This makes the first step, which is getting the teeth to bite, the trickiest, and the most likely time you could drop a screw. No dropping!

    - Strength of the screw placement depends on the quality of the ice you place it in:

    Good = Cold, Clear, Dry

    Bad = Soft, Warm, Wet

    We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!

    Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk. Please visit https://ClimbingTechTips.com for related comments, additional videos, and community feedback!