Discount Price Zinc Aluminum Alloy Die Casting Parts for Bahrain Manufacturers

Zinc Aluminum Alloy Die Casting Parts   Applications: 1.Automobile and motorcycle parts: engine cover, cylinder head, brake pad, shraft, clutch, etc. 2. Lights & lamps parts: heatsink, lamp cup, light housing,  LED/street/ down lamp spares, etc. 3. Doors and windows parts: door(window)handle/hinge/lock, door stop, glass clamp, etc. 4. Electrical appliance parts: connector, telephone junction box , waterproof terminal box, etc. 5. Furniture hardware fittings: sofa legs,  furniture brackets,  staircase fitting, decorations, etc. 6. Industrial hardwares: control valve housing, air tools, engine cover, instrument parts, etc. 7. Machine spareparts: machine vavle, base plate, end plate, propeller parts, etc.   Dimension: According to Customer's Drawing Material: 1. Al alloy: A380, A360, ADC12, AlSi9Cu3(Fe), AlSi12(Cu), etc. 2. Zinc alloy: Zamak 3, Zamak 5, etc. Surface Finish: Sand Blast, Powder Coating, Zinc Plated, and so on. Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet Advantage: Strict Quality Control, Competitive Price, Timely delivery,Technical support, Supply Test Report Please feel free to contact us for more details.  

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    The Right-Way to Remove Loosen Rusty Bolts.
    The worst thing about working on old car, trucks or jeeps is loosening/removing the rusty frozen bolts and rusty nuts. As long as there are no rubber parts or anything flammable nearby the best thing to use use to remove frozen rusty bolts or nut is heat from a propane torch. You can use an acetylene torch also but you have the danger of overheating the metal and melting it. The heat from the propane torch is just right to free the rusty bolts up. Heat will work to free up frozen bolts much better than any penetrating oil. Btw, (if you have the time) Kroil is about the best stuff there is for penetrating the threads on rusty bolts.
    Another trick with using heat from a propane torch is that is the perfect amount of heat to remove bolts or nuts installed with Loctite Red. Loctite Red is typically used for a permanent installation. You need heat to break down the Loctite Red if you want to remove the nut or bolt. The heat from a propane is perfect for that. A heat gun may not be hot enough and an acetylene torch could melt things too much.
    The other trick for the worst stuck fasteners – nuts and bolts is to use reverse drill bits and easy-outs. If you use heat and then try the easy-out, you will often have no problem when using them combined. Again use the propane because you will not melt the steel. Sometimes just drilling with the reverse drill will un-thread the broken off bolt that is stuck inside. Also sometimes drilling off the head of a bolt will relieve a lot of the grip and that helps when using the easy-out.



    https://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/AVwfw/~3/J36tzh8q6KM/xm-21-td-glowplugs-how-to-access-hard.html

    XM 2.1 TD glowplugs – How to access the hard to reach one near the injector pump.

    Equipment: You will need a long 8mm spanner – preferably an angled or pivot head ratchet type, 10mm socket with double jointed adaptor or spanner to undo the plug, a telescopic magnet and small mirror, bright flashlight…and the patience of a saint.

    This video shows how to reach number one glowplug which on the Peugeot Citroen XU11 diesels/turbo-diesels and other related diesel engines.

    If you own or have worked on an XM, Xantia, Xsara, or other models in the PSA group (Peugeot-Citroen) then you’ll know that replacing the glowplugs can be a bit of a chore -especially number one plug which is tucked right down the back of the injector pump and cylinder head. More often than not, the plugs are hard to remove because previous owners or garages never smeared copper grease around the threads. If you’re lucky and the car had previous owner who looked after it, then the plugs should unwind easily although number one is still a challenge unless you follow these simple tips.

    1)Firstly, disconnect the battery whenever working on engine/electrical system.

    2)Remove inlet manifold and associated hoses/trunking etc.

    3)Drain the cooling system as you will have to remove a pipe from its outlet on the
    head to access number one. Believe me, unless you’ve got some way of
    accessing the plug without removing the pump or the pipe union, this is the only
    practical method.

    4)Disconnect glowplug feed cable from the plugs.

    5)Use an airline to blow away any dirt debris from around the glowplugs.

    6)Now get some anti-seize ‘juice’ or ‘Plusgas and squirt some around the glowplug
    threads and leave it to work. If the threads are crudded up with corrosion you’ll
    stand bit more chance of removing them than if you didn’t use plusgas. WD40 also
    works but takes longer to work as being more viscous than Plusgas. I’ve used
    Plusgas for over twenty three years and does what it says on the tin. A little goes a
    long way due to it’s capilliary action.

    7)Ensure the plug wants to move when you go to undo it. If it moves slightly don’t keep
    forcing it, gently do it up again and then loosen it off again and spray more Plusgas. The action of winding it up then unwinding it helps break the corrosion seal between the head and the steel body of the plug. Do this to all three accesible plugs.

    The hard to reach plug needs special consideration as this is the plug that’s often left in place due to awkward access. Please note a duff plug with 3 good ones is worse than four old plugs as the duff one will affect the system and reduce starting ability/preheat of engine.
    Not all plugs come with new nuts so make sure you have spares. Use the magnet to prevent plug from falling down the front of the engine under all the pipes, cables and bits that these diesels have.

    For the infamous number one plug, remove cylinder head coolant hose pipe union, loosen off the easy to reach bolt (allen key/hex bolt) and then use a soft metal drift to tap the outlet plate so it moves away to expose the glowplug that’s tight against the diesel injector pump. A bit of WD40 squirted around the pipe outlet plate means the seal can slide with the plate without damage. You could try to remove the lower bolt but it’s also very hard to get to unless you have a long, angled allen key. Even a ball-head allen key can’t reach it as the pump prevents any force from being applied plus ball heads can shear off leaving the head in the top of allen bolt. Which is why the tapping method is enough to shift this plate/pipe outlet so long as top bolt is removed.
    Once this plate is moved away, the glowplug can be accessed but it’s still fiddly and you need small hands to put the 8mm nut back to secure the feed cable.

    Once all plugs are out, ensure nothing falls into the holes. Now lightly smear coppergrease on top portion of the threads of the plugs. Don’t use too much as you don’t want grease in the pre-combustion chamber of the diesel.
    Fit the new plugs observing correct torque (assuming you can get a small torque wrench on them but if not they just need nipping up as they don’t use crush washers but merely a tapered seat so go easy, don’t overtighten them!
    Refit plug supply cable, refill cooling system and put back inlet manifold and trunking/hoses etc.
    Different models have different stripdown process but the glowplug process with the awkward number one plug is same for the XU11 and other XU diesels. I normally swap out the glowplugs during a major service when the coolant is going to be changed anyway. You could remove the injector pump but that in itself is a big job and only done if the plug is well and truly seized or broken in the head. Just hope you never have to to that job…