We will start by removing the front grill. You will need a flat head screw driver and/or the
optional plastic interior trim tool. To start use pry the push clips as show in the pictures.
Remove all four of these push clips.
To remove the lower section of the grill from the bumper, gently pull the grill away from the car.
You will then use a flathead screw driver to push the tabs in the direction shown below.
Work your way from one side of the car to the other removing the tabs and gently pulling the
grill away from the car. Once all the tabs have been compressed the grill will be removed.
Once the grill is removed we can start to remove the front bumper. First remove the two Philips
head screws from the fender liner.
Once you have moved the fender liner you can now access the two push clips (on each side)
which hold the fender flair to the bumper. To remove these use the same procedure as the clips
in the front grill.
Once the push clips are removed you can pull the fender flair towards the front and away from
the car.
Once the fender flair is detached from the bumper you may unplug the turn signal bulb. This can
be done by pressing the middle of the plug and pulling gently away from the yellow bulb
housing.
You can then use a T25 torque bit to loosen the bolt under the fender flair.
Proceed to repeat step 5 for the other side of the car.
Next remove the 3 push clips under the front bumper. If your car is a JCW edition the lower
valance will be slightly different but the mounting points are exactly the same.
Once the push clips are removed proceed to remove the two T25 torque bolts.
Next remove the last two bolts for the bumper. They are the T25 torx bolts.
If your car is equipped with headlight washers you will also have to unclip the hose from your
bumper. This can be done by squeezing the clip as shown below.
You can now remove the bumper slowly while disconnecting the fog lights, turn signals and
outside air temperature sensor as shown below.
Now that the bumper is removed we can start removing the intercooler.
The bumper fits cleanly against the new intercooler. With the light plugs
reattached, we can reinstall the clips to mount the front bumper cover followed by the inner
fender liner clips.
The front bumper is reinstalled, followed by the fender flares.
Next we trim two lower clips in the center of the grill to clear the intercooler and reinstall
Fit the two hex bolts in place of the push type clips in the center of the grill with included fender
washers.
Installation complete, test drive ready!
In this video, I show you how to get A LOT MORE tension on your truss rod. An all too common issue with these old hex nuts – the adjustment piece (the piece you actually turn) is too short and does not create enough downward pressure to effectively straighten the rod ( which straightens the neck). The more pressure you put on the rod, the more it will straighten the neck. The straighter the neck is, the closer the strings will be to the frets. Many people enjoy playing a guitar with low action because it’s easier to play (hurts your hands less). Straightening the neck on this guitar was easy with the addition of a common nut – watch the video! I will also address the bridge problem on this guitar in my next video. Btw, if you have a guitar with this style adjustment please tell me what it is. I will add your guitar brand to the search tags so others can find this video easily. There are literally thousands of guitars (acoustic and electric) with these old hex nuts with the same problem (all different brands and qualities). I got tons of videos coming shortly, so add me to your favorites if you like this type of garb!
Also, I want to say I KNOW….it’s a slotted hex nut. Ever since I saw my first 70′s strat with a ‘bullet’ nut adjustment, I’ve always called anything that resembles it the same thing. I know a true bullet style is cylidrical with an allen adjustment. Sorry if my terminology offends any proper instrument terminology die-hards.