This restoration was on a early 1900s Bacon Mfg. Co. seeder. These were also known as garden seeders, hand-drills, or cultivators. The Bacon Mfg. Co. was based out of Pontiac, Michigan, USA. I had a really hard time locating ANY information on this tool, but I did find the patent from 1901 located here: https://patents.google.com/patent/US697191A/
I also found an advertisement for this seeder from 1899 here: https://i.imgur.com/677aZUQ.jpg
There are several “BD” markings on the castings that lead me to believe this is a “Bacon Drill” seeder and not another type.
The black finish on this seeder was most likely japanning, but I am still unsure about the finish on the silver parts. Usually nickel-plated steel builds up a greenish film that washes off after placed in Evapo-rust, but this did not happen at all.
The rest of the restoration was fairly straight forward as these are all just metal parts that needed de-rusting and paint. I used 3-4 coats of paint and 3 coats of clear-coat on everything.
There is a part on the back wheel that I do not know what it does. It may have been a counter or a measuring tool, from the looks of it.
The seeder was actually really fun to use and if I had a large garden this would still come in handy today!
I’d like to thank Evapo-Rust for sponsoring this video.
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This video is all about how to fit an outdoor garden tap or faucet. From siting the tap and drilling the hole through your wall to piping it up using copper pipe and installing valves and non return valves.
Hello and welcome to today plumberparts.co.uk video. This video is gonna be all about how to fit an outside tap. There’s a couple of ways you can do it. Two types of kits, there’s also a kit you can get where everything comes in one massive piece. You have the hose, you have a check valve with all those bits and bobs on it. We’re not gonna do it like that, we’re gonna do it properly with hard pipe. We’re gonna use some soldering, it’s gonna be bloody great. Remember to hold tight. Once you’ve chosen the position for your outside tap, we’re gonna try and get it about here, directly under this middle spine of this window. Now it’s always easier if you can try and put your tap underneath the kitchen sink outside because you’ve got your cold feed out there already. A couple of things you need to think about is you probably don’t wanna be feeding the outside with softened water supply because you’ll be paying for softened water to go outside into your grass. A bit dumb. And also when buying the tap, if your tap you buy doesn’t have a built in check valve, that’s a non-return valve, you have to buy a non-return valve separately because you cannot have the possibility of water going back into the main from any outside tap. I’ve chosen where I’m gonna put it. I am not gonna punch a hole through the wall and we’re actually gonna feed the tap through and affix to the wall and then I’ll show you how to do the connexions out from the other side. Right, so the particular outside tap pack we’ve got today is one like this. So you can just push it straight into the wall. Obviously a lot of the time you have big tap that have an angled upward inch and a half female plate that you actually screw into the wall. Then you have to screw it in. So that means sometimes you have a bit of 15mm, a 15mm elbow coming up and then going into the plate. But these are slightly simpler, a bit easier to do.
So it’s a matter of pushing it into the hole now, marking our three holes, drilling them and getting them plugged. Little tip, before you do that, just pop some tape over getting inside your pipe. Drill and plug. I’ve almost got our plugs in. Just grab yourself a little bit of silicon, pop that in here around this so then if you do get any rain or anything like that, it doesn’t get into your home, get all over the place. Popped in beautiful like that. That will stop any water getting in. Right now tighten up your three screws nice and tight. Once this is all in nicely done up and you’ve smoothed off the silicon around the bottom, or around wherever it may have spread out, don’t use the PTFE they supply with the tap okay ’cause it’s poo. You wanna use LocTite, this stuff’s really good because you need this tap to stay upright and stable and Lock Tight not only seals the joint, but actually creates a really tough, hard to move joint as well once it’s in. So how you put that on, you just wrap it and you actually cross it over the threads like so. So you actually sort of go over the thread like that. Then that gets that in. I just wanna run that nice into there. Apprentices always put too much on when they start using this stuff. Then we just run it in, just start off hand tight like that. It’s already gotten tight now. So what you wanna do is get yourself, I don’t really get that out with the hands. I got a lot of time for that. So we’re done outside, no we’ve got our tap in, make sure that you turn it off. And now we’re gonna go inside and I’ll show you how to do your connexions up in there. Right now, so here we are under the sink. There’s out pipe sticking out as I’m sure you’d a guessed. Right, what we’re gonna do it I’ll put a little elbow on here. Our cold water is this pipe just down at the bottom here. So just T, we just elbow and T into that cold pipe nice and easy. But along the way, going up we need a valve that turns off the outside and also our check valve or non-return valve. We’ll put them in like that on the way out. If you wanna learn more about check valves or anything like that, we do have video on it. I’ll leave a link to it at the end of this video.
I’m just gonna cut very small piece, put that into there with that arrow pointing up. Pop that piece into there with that arrow pointing up, then this arrow going in the same direction. Pop that in there and then we’re gonna tighten these two up. So we’ve got our piece like that and that will go in just in here like so.