IRWIN Tools, manufacturer of the original VISE-GRIP, has launched a new range of locking pliers that offer three times more gripping power and are twice as durable as traditional locking pliers.
For almost 90 years, Vise-Grip Locking Pliers have been used as a universal tool used for a myriad of jobs and activities and in various different capacities, from a pair of powerful pliers or an adjustable wrench to a clamp. The new IRWIN VISE-GRIP Curved Jaw Locking Pliers have built on this prestigious heritage to become the strongest Vise-Grip Locking Pliers in the world, offering unrivalled levels of grip and control.
The patented Curved Jaw is great for securely gripping and torquing multiple surface shapes, including round pipes, square or hex bolts, as well as making the pliers perfect for any application that requires maximum torque.
The Self-Energizing Lower Jaw features a pivot that allows the jaw to align on the workpiece for maximum grip without slipping or stripping, as well as providing maximum torque without requiring heavy input pressure. This jaw mechanism grips tighter as more torque is applied to the tool.
Versatile by nature, the new IRWIN VISE-GRIP Curved Jaw Locking Pliers have been forged from high-grade alloy steel, heat treated for maximum toughness and cycle treated for durability.
I had thought about doing this to add with the video that I did previously
on how to lay the GL1800 on its side to change the rear wheel (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TShysJyHb-0). It Was due for
a front change, so I set the camera up in the garage for this. I
apologize for the video quality. I guess the lighting in the garage just
doesn’t match nature’s lighting for this cheap camera.
This video is for entertainment purposes only. Performance of any of these
tasks should only be done by a trained professional and the performance and
results are at your own risk.
Note that there are a few added steps if you have ABS! Check the manual!
Tools used:
Small floor jack with wood block
nitrile gloves
3/8 torque wrench
3/8 ratchets (short and long handled, but could probably all be done with
the short one)
3/8 “T” handle (for removing fender bolts)
12 & 22 mm 3/8 sockets
5 & 6 mm hex wrenches
T40 wrench
screwdriver
coathanger or other heavy wire for hanging pads
grease
rags
blue (medium) thread lock
small wire brush
two small pieces corrugated cardboard
Torque values:
Axel bolt – 44 ft-lbs
Axel pinch bolts – 16 ft-lbs
Right side caliper bolts – 23 ft-lbs
Left side pivot (T40) bolt – 19 ft-lbs
Left pivot bolt (6 mm Allen) – 23 ft lbs
Note that the shop manual instructs you to loosen the left pinch bolts, hold
the front brakes and compress the forks several times to center the forks
and seat the brake pads, then re-tighten and torque the pinch bolts. I did
this but did not get it on the video. On my bike, the axle never moves from
the scribe mark doing this.