https://www.etrailer.com/tv-hitch-install-2003-ford-e250.aspx
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today we are going to be installing Draw-Tite hitch part number 41926 on a 2003 Ford E250 van. We are underneath the vehicle and we are looking at the drivers side frame rail. We are going to go ahead and point out the mounting holes for the trailer hitch. As you can see, this particular van has multiple holes in the bottom of the frame we are going to be using three of them. We are going to start by using the rearmost hole here that has the double-plated end to it. We will be using the one right next to it here, as well, and then the one here. On some models, this carbon canister may interfere with you getting the bolt and block into place. If that is the case, you can take and remove the carbon canister by removing the nuts off of these two studs coming through the other side of the frame that are holding the carbon canister. And the mounting holes are going to be the same on the passengers side. So we are going to go ahead and put the bolt and block assemblies in place, and then we can go ahead and put the hitch up. You will note that there is a slight -off here in the double-piece metal to where the flat portion of the frame is here we are going to need to add a block in between the frame and the hitch when we put it up. We will not need one at the forward location, because you can see the frame slopes down and will level itself out when you put it up.
We are going to be attaching to the bolts with the flat washer and nut at the bottom. And we just want to repeat that process for the other side as well. Now that we have got all the hardware in place, we can go ahead and tighten the bolts down. I am going to first come through with the air gun and get them snugged up. Then we will go back through with our torque wrench and torque them down to their specified torque ratings. OK, now we want to go back through and torque our bolts down. You want to check with the instructions to verify the appropriate torque rating for each individual bolt. And with all the bolts torqued down, our installation is complete. You want to make sure that if you had to remove your carbon canister earlier that you go ahead and bolt that back up. This will conclude the installation of hitch part number 41926 on a 2003 Ford E250 van. etrailer.com
Aluminum boat rivet repair can be easy, fast, and permanent with Super Alloy 5 aluminum rod and flux, and an oxyacetylene torch. YOU CANNOT USE PROPANE ON ALUMINUM BOATS, THE PARENT METAL WILL NOT GET HOT ENOUGH. YOU CANNOT USE SUPER ALLOY 1 ON ALUMINUM BOATS, IT IS NOT HOT ENOUGH.
The boat pictured is riddled with holes, and the owner had used epoxy to try to fill said holes. Because the epoxy or silicon didn’t last long, the boat owner put his boat up for sale.
We removed the silicon with an angle grinder with a sanding disk, and used an oxyacetylene torch with Super Alloy 5 rod and flux to properly fill the aluminum holes. Super Alloy 5 aluminum brazing rod made easy work of the once leaky rivet.
Note: Flexing the aluminum while in use can cause the rivets to loosen over time. After brazing with Super Alloy 5, the area around the rivet is stronger than ever–and the flex is removed from the rivets.
After allowing the area to cool naturally, we used water and a wire brush to remove the flux. When you want to repair this area only once then brazing, welding or soldering will always be your best option.
Please read all instructions prior to use at: https://www.muggyweld.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Super-Alloy-5-instructions.pdf
For more videos and information, or to order, visit https://MuggyWeld.com
International customers, please order at: https://www.ebay.com/usr/muggyweld
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