Wholesale price for ASTM A320 L7 All Threaded Stud Bolts for British Factory

ASTM A320/A320M L7 All Threaded Stud Bolts Alloy steel bolting for pressure vessels, valves, flanges, and fittings for low-temperature service. Standard: IFI-136, ASME B16.5, DIN976 Inch Size: 1/4”-2.1/2” with various lengths Metric Size: M6-M64 with various lengths Other Available Grade: ASTM A193/A193M B7, B7M, B16 B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2, ASTM A320/A320M L7, L7M, L43, B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2, and so on. Finish: Plain, Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, Zinc Nickel Plated, Cadmium Plated, PTFE etc. Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet Advantage: High Quality and Strict Quality Control, Competitive Price,Timely Delivery; Technical Support, Supply Test Reports Please feel free to contact us for more details.

  • Wholesale price for ASTM A320 L7 All Threaded Stud Bolts for British Factory Related Video:



    www.GarvinIndustries.com – 1/2″ uninsulated set screw electrical connectors are used in dry locations to bond 1/2″ EMT thinwall conduits to electrical junction boxes or enclosures. Garvin Industries’ uninsulated steel set screw connectors provide concrete tight connections when taped and properly secured with the included locknut, and are rated for electrical applications above 600 volts. Their heavy gauge steel construction maintains mechanical protection and solid grounding of the conduit to the designated electrical junction box or enclosure. Additionally, set screw connectors are zinc electroplated for excellent corrosion protection. Set screw connectors are also made with a versatile combination head screw that can securely fasten a conduit to an electrical junction box using a slotted, Phillips, or Robertson head screw driver.

    Product Page: https://www.garvinindustries.com/electrical-fittings/emt-conduit-fittings/set-screw-connectors-uninsulated/sscn-50

    Garvin Industries Homepage: https://www.garvinindustries.com



    WRITTEN PROCEDURE:

    Tools/Supplies:

    1 x Barnett Clutch Cable (I used PN# 102-40-10005)
    1 x 13mm wrench
    1 x 12mm wrench
    2 x 10mm wrenches
    1 x 10mm socket
    1 x 4″ drive extension
    1 x 1/4″ drive ratchet
    1 x medium sized adjustable wrench
    1 x pair of side cutters
    2 x replacement nylon (zip) ties –medium sized preferably black

    Removal:

    1) Locate the radiator plastic shroud right side mounting bolt under the right foot peg – remove it – 10 mm socket/extension
    2) Locate the clutch cable slack adjuster, follow the cable, it will be under the right side of the engine case, covered by a rubber boot
    3) Slide the rubber boot off and thread the adjuster together increasing the slack in the cable, (may need 10/12mm wrenches)
    4) Use side cutters to cut/remove ONLY the nylon ties, be careful about your old cable and the nylon tie holders, you will want to reuse these for mounting your new cable
    5) Follow the cable towards the rear, locate the rear clutch cable mount & loosen the upper mounting nut (the only one you can access) with a 13mm wrench until it completely comes off the threaded barrel
    6) Use adjustable wrench and fit it to the end of the clutch rod on the engine gently lift up on the wrench to rotate the clutch rod and release the cable end from the clutch rod bevel and groove
    7) Lower the clutch cable casing threaded barrel out of its mount (you may have to pull a bit) then slide the clutch cable through the cut out in the mount.
    8) At the clutch lever remove the clutch cable casing from its position in the clutch lever mount housing.
    9) Swing the clutch cable housing toward the front of the bike, this should push the lever back a bit and allow the cable end to be removed from the bottom of the lever
    10) Slide the cable carefully down through the cable cover and then completely down and out between you radiator and the frame, the plastic shroud should be easily pushed aside for this process.
    11) Be careful to remember the cable routing for the return trip.

    Installation:

    1) On new clutch cable and make sure all of the adjusters and set to their zero point, providing you with the most cable slack possible, grease contact points
    2) Carefully thread your new clutch cable from the bottom of the Scout back up though between the radiator and the frame, through the cable way to the clutch lever.
    3) Insert the cable end into its fitted location in the lever, swing the housing around and into the fitted position in the clutch lever mount.
    4) At the engine end of the clutch cable slide the cable through the rear clutch cable mount and push the threaded barrel into place, ignore the nut for now.
    5) Use adjustable wrench to rotate clutch rod on the engine while inserting the cable end into the clutch rod cradle and groove
    6) Thread the mounting nut onto the threaded barrel of the cable housing and snug
    7) Adjust cable slack adjuster nut so there is limited free movement of the clutch lever and also so the clutch rod is not in an engaged or semi engaged position. Snug the clutch cable slack adjuster lock nut with 2 x10mm wrenches
    8) Fasten two black nylon ties and thread them through the holders and loop them around the clutch cable and snug to hold the cable in place without damaging the casing or restricting the inner cable’s movement
    9) Test ride bike – readjust if necessary

    Thank you to Tombsmen on www.indianmotorcycles.net for the written procedure.