Wholesale Discount Din6914 Heavy Hex Structural Bolts Wholesale to Turkmenistan

Din6914 Heavy Hex Structural Bolts Thread Size: M12-M36 with various length Grade: Bolt-10.9, Nut-10, Washer-295~350HV Finish: Black Oxide, Hot Dip Galvanized, Dacromet, and so on Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet Advantage: High Quality and Strict Quality Control, Competitive price,Timely delivery; Technical support, Supply Test Reports Please feel free to contact us for more details.

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    This video will walk you through the steps to restring your horizontal wood blind. These instructions are applicable to Mini Blinds, Faux Wood and Venetian Blinds as well.

    For Window Covering Safety Tips, click the link below:

    https://www.windowcoverings.org

    Visit our channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/fixmyblinds . . . More information, click “show more”.

    Things you will need for the repair:
    • Scissors
    • a Flat Head Screwdriver
    • Pliers
    • a Tape Measure
    • a Lighter

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    The tools you’ll need for this repair are — a tape measure, Scissors, a flat head screwdriver, and a lighter.
    We recommend replacing all of the lift strings at the same time to ensure proper function of the blind.
    First, remove the valance and set aside.
    To determine the length of each sting needed, measure the length and width of the blind.
    Twice the length plus the width is the formula used to ensure proper string length.
    Pull the string off the roll like this to prevent twisting.
    Cut all the strings you’ll need for this repair now.
    If the strings are still intact, this repair can be done without removing the blind, even if they are frayed.
    Cut the lift string toward the bottom of the blind.
    Fuse the strings by melting the end of the existing string and one of the new strings.
    Roll the strings together as shown to weld them together. You might want to wet your fingers to do this as the melted string is hot.
    Repeat this process for all the other strings.
    Pull the existing lift strings until the new string comes out. Even the strings and cut the old string off.
    Remove the bottom button and the remaining old string from the bottom rail.
    At any time when working with lift string, using a lighter is a good way to blunt the end of the string to prevent fraying. This technique allows for the string to go through route holes easier.
    Insert the new string through the hole and tie a knot big enough to prevent the string from pulling through. If your blind uses a washer, reuse it.
    Cut off any excess string, insert the ladder strings and reinsert the button.
    Resthread the others the same way.
    Test your repair.
    With the blind all the way down cut the lift strings to the desired length.
    Attach any tassels at this time.
    If your strings are completely missing from the blind, blunt your precut strings and rethread them down through the slats as shown.
    Weave the strings through the ladder strings, switching sides every 3 slats. This will ensure the blind slats will not shift during operation.
    Rethread through the bottom rail and tie off as shown previously.
    Remove the blind at this point and place it on a flat work surface.
    Thread the strings through the cord guide at the bottom of the headrail — through the cradles and down and out the cord lock.
    When threading the cord lock, make sure the strings go between the roller and the latch as shown.
    Remount the blind.
    Re attach the bottom buttons.
    Test you repair.
    Cut the lift strings to the desired length, attach the tassel and valance.

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    You will be able to find these parts at a local convenience store or online:

    Scissors:

    https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-1448-Precision-Scissor-8-Inches/dp/B001BKHHGS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372095813&sr=8-1&keywords=scissors

    Flat Head Screwdriver:

    https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-60-006-8-Inch-Standard-Screwdriver/dp/B000688ANU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1372095835&sr=8-4&keywords=flat+head+screwdriver

    Pliers:

    https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3511-8-Inch-Long-Pliers/dp/B000NPPAPM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1372095911&sr=8-7&keywords=pliers

    a Tape Measure:

    https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-425-Powerlock-25-Foot-Measuring/dp/B00002X2GQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372095922&sr=8-1&keywords=tape+measure

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    Copyright © Fix My Blinds Inc 2014 and Subsequent Years All rights reserved.



    Like Us on Facebook! https://www.facebook.com/DiyForKnuckleheads?ref=hl How to install concrete anchors.How to attach timber / wood to concrete or any other SOLID masonry surface using DynaBolts. DynaBolts are the ideal anchor for attaching almost anything to solid masonry such as concrete. This video will look at attaching timber to a concrete floor.

    The Tools You’ll Need Are:

    Hearing protection,
    Dust Mask.
    Goggles.
    Bike pump (to remove the concrete dust from inside the hole after you’ve drilled it).
    A hammer drill or rotary hammer drill.
    A suitable concrete anchor.
    A masonry drill bit suitable to the diameter size of your anchor. For example, if the diameter of your masonry bolt is 10mm, you would use a 10mm masonry drill bit.
    A hammer, and a
    Torque wrench, spanner or socket to tighten the anchor once installed.

    The steps to attach timber to concrete using masonry anchors are as follows:

    Step 1:
    First of all position your timber in place and pre-drill (if necessary) the hole (in the timber) where you want the concrete anchor to go. Personally l don’t pre drill. If you have a rotary hammer drill it is quite capable of drill through timber (pine framing) using a masonry drill bit.

    Step 2:
    With the timber in place and using your hammer drill or rotary drill, drill the hole in the concrete making sure that depth of the hole is about 10mm deeper than the length of the anchor. This will ensure that the even if there is a little bit of debris left in the bottom of the hole after drilling, the anchor won’t bottom out to early leaving it proud of the surface of the timber. Trust me, you don’t want this to happen. Please be aware that the thickness of concrete on a typical ground floor slab is is only around 100mm or 4 inches unless it is the perimeter of the building which is actually quite thick. You don’t want to drill any deeper than that other wise you will penetrate right through the slab and the plasic barrier beneath the slab which can lead to moisture drawing up through the hole in the plastic and concrete. Anyway, once you’ve drilled to your desired depth, run the drill up and down a few times to help clear the dust out of the hole. Leaving the drill in the hole, dust the dust away from the hole. Once drilled ensure that all the concrete dust is removed from in and around the hole. Using a bike pump is a great way of removing excess dust from the hole.

    Step 3:
    Insert the anchor into the hole (please be aware that concrete anchors are made in a variety of materials. Some are suitable only for indoor use and others are suitable for indoor and outdoor use. Read the back of the packet for details). You use your hammer at this point to tap the anchor in.
    Finally, using your spanner or socket (the correct way is to use a torque wrench but not to many people have these., tighten the nut on top until tight and you’re done!!!!

    Bonus Tip: When drilling into concrete, a rotary hammer drill is far more effective tool than the standard hammer drill. They only cost around $60.00. Well worth the investment!

    Thanks for watching.
    Please sub, thumbs up, add to favourites, comment and share.
    Cheers, Uncle Knackers.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_bQJdj4rbI

    Please Note:
    All Videos produced by shaneconlan1′s YouTube Channel are provided for informational purposes only.
    All the content provided is for general guidance only. Because tools, products, materials, equipment, techniques, building codes and local regulations are constantly changing, shaneconlan1 cannot, and does not assume any responsibility or liability for the accuracy of the information contained therein. Further, shaneconlan1 (Shane Conlan) will not accept any claim for liability related to, but not limited to, omissions, errors, injury, damage or the outcome of any project. It is the responsibility of the viewer to ensure compliance with all applicable laws, rules, codes and regulations for a project. The viewer must always take proper safety precautions and exercise caution when taking on any project. If there are any questions or doubt in regards to the element of a project, please consult with a licensed professional.