Watch more Home Repair & DIY videos: https://www.howcast.com/videos/166033-How-to-Fix-a-Door-That-Sticks
Instead of pushing, pulling, and cursing, why not fix that door that sticks?
Step 1: Check installation
Check that the door was properly installed. Close the door and see if the top of the door lines up with the doorframe. Examine all sides of the door, then make sure the hinges are properly installed and aligned.
Step 2: Test tightening
See that the hinges are tight and secure. Use your screwdriver to tighten any loose screws. Do not use a drill; it could cause you to strip the screw holes.
Tip
Wedge a book or piece of wood under the door to keep it steady while you work on the hinges.
Step 3: Check for warping
Look for swelling. Time and humidity can cause wooden doors to warp and expand, so check where the door sticks and see if its shape has been altered.
Step 4: Mark warped areas
If warping seems to be the problem, slip a thin piece of cardboard between the door and frame and notice the problem areas where it sticks. Lightly mark these spots with a pencil, unscrew the hinges, and remove the door.
Step 5: Sand the door
Sand the problem areas with a sanding block. Be careful not to take off more than you want.
Tip
If a door has been painted over several times, the layers of paint may be what’s making it stick. Sand them down.
Step 6: Plane the door
If the problem area is significant, use a belt sander to grind it down. Follow the manufacturer’s directions and don’t wear away too much wood! Add finish to the sanded area, let it dry, and reattach your door, making sure the hinges are tight. Chances are you’ve fixed the problem by now.
Step 7: Replace screw
Still sticking? Replace the middle screws on the hinges with larger, longer screws that will grip the frame better.
Step 8: Dent the doorframe
You could also try carefully denting the doorframe. Take your wooden block and place it on the frame where the door tends to stick. Hammer the block lightly so the doorframe bends a bit; this make the door looser when it’s closed.
Step 9: Push frame closer to the studs
Here’s another trick — push the doorframe closer to the studs by hammering a nail into the frame where the door tends to stick. Sometimes this can buy you a little room.
Step 10: Buy a new door
If all else fails, it may be time for a new door. At least you know you didn’t overlook an obvious fix! Make sure the new door is stained or varnished on all sides, which can prevent warping by keeping out moisture.
Did You Know?
The narrowest house in the world is in Amsterdam; it is not much wider than its 39-inch front door!
I give no warranty that if you follow the steps in this video that the installation will be correct, safe or will work. I am just demonstrating how I fitted a panel to my motorhome.
Below is a list of parts that I used. I’m not recommending any supplier:
• Solar panel. Select the panel power output suitable for your van. Have a look at https://www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk/helpandadvice/technicalhelp/power/solar-power/. I bought mine from Photonic Universe on Amazon as the panel came with 5m of cable.
• 4 x corner brackets
• 1 x two-cable entry gland unit
• 8 x 35mm M10 stainless button head bolts, washers and lock-washers
• Sikaflex 512 adhesive
• Solar charge controller, single or double battery type. I used a double battery type to charge both cab and leisure batteries.
• 20mm convoluted conduit – Screwfix
• 20mm saddle clamps and/or pack of 19mm stick on tie down pads for zip ties – Screwfix
• Zip ties. I used 5mm x 20cm
• Solar cable and/or battery cable greater than 10A capacity
• In line blade fuse holders, one for each charging circuit (Halfords)
• 10A blade fuses (Halfords)
• Battery connectors or ring crimp connectors. Ensure ring has large enough diameter for battery terminal bolts.
• A few male and female spade crimp commectors
• Isopropanol for cleaning (online or Maplin)
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