My goal is to provide the small scale recycler/scrapper/scrap yard an affordable, effective, and versatile processing and sorting line for smaller volumes of scrap metal to increase the overall value.
I am very interested to hear your comments/suggestions on a small scale scrap metal processing line. Is this something that the small scale recycler would be interested in? Is there a market for equipment like this? Would this be a useful tool for the industry? Your comments or suggestions would be much appreciated
I wanted to make a video showing the feasibility of processing contaminated/dirty brass through a hammer mill and separating by hand. This was a rough 1st pass study to find out if there was enough added value to make it worth while. The results were encouraging and I think there could be a real market here for upgrading/processing dirty brass if there is enough available volume.
The processing through the hammer mill took about ~15-20 minutes (10 lbs/minute average) and the real time sink for this test was the hand sorting. It would have helped if I had a sorting table, the proper tools, and a grinder to help determine the difference between the different metals. I think the hand sorting time could be cut down quite a bit with the right set up.
For more information:
Phone: 360-595-4445
Email: MBMMLLC@gmail.com
Website: www.MBMMLLC.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/MBMMLLC
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKHQyeq3yQs SEE THIS LINK; THE UPDATED INFO ON THIS FIX.
I’VE REBUILT THE LOW END ON THIS TRANSMISSION NOW AND SHE’S ALL BACK TOGETHER BUT CAN’T START HER YET THANKS TO A P.O.S. SCHUMACHER BATTERY CHARGER THAT IS NOT REALLY CHARGING ON A NEW BATTERY SHIPPED DEC2013.
you’ll need a welder to make a spot weld on the tip of the pin. Use a caliper to measure the pin first, so you’ll know how much to grind off later if you do a total rebuild or just low band replacement job.
You’ll need a large oil pan, 10mm, 8mm sockets, both of which you’ll need on a 1/4″ drive using a 3″ extension( or less maybe), the 1/2″ drive is for the 10mm sockets and you will need some extensions. Now there is a problem with accessing 2 of the bolts on the rear of the pan, so for that I used a 3/8″ drive and a 10mm easy out, since those are on tight and like to strip !!!!!!! (maybe because of the angle you’ll need to get in there thanks to GM’s professional grade engineering haha).
And a JACK with a large 12x12x24″ block of solid strong wood or something similar. I used jack stands only as safety but they had no load on them.
That should cover your tools, but don’t forget you’ll need a filtering funnel that will fit into the refill hose in the engine compartment near the firewall.
Know the difference between the engine oil and the transmission fluid. Use only dextron mercon 3 synthetic or just the best you can find. Also it’s good to add Lucas.
I reused most of my oil, I added a new quart. I had it flushed 3000 miles ago and added Lucas.
It can look a little dirty but you don’t want it laquered or dark brown. If there is no color red that’s easy to spot right off the bat, replace that nasty oil immediately.
Always have a magnet stick incase you drop parts into the oil pan also.