ASTM A193/A193M B7 Combination Studs Step Down Studs
Alloy steel bolting for pressure vessels, valves, flanges, and fittings for high temperature or high pressure service, or other special purpose applications.
Standard: According to drawing
Inch Size: 1/4”-4” with various lengths
Metric Size: M6-M100 with various lengths
Other Available Grade:
ASTM A193/A193M B7, B7M, B16 B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2,
ASTM A320/A320M L7, L7M, L43, B8 Class 1 & 2, B8M Class 1 & 2, and so on.
Finish: Plain, Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, Zinc Nickel Plated, Cadmium Plated, PTFE etc.
Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet
Advantage: High Quality and Strict Quality Control, Competitive Price,Timely Delivery; Technical Support, Supply Test Reports
Please feel free to contact us for more details.
ASTM A193
Scope
Originally approved in 1936, this specification is heavily utilized in petroleum and chemical construction applications. The ASTM standard covers alloy steel and stainless steel bolting materials for high temperature service. This specification includes fasteners intended for use in pressure vessels, valves, flanges, and fittings. Although, this material is often available in national coarse (UNC) thread pitches, if being used in traditional applications, threads are specified 8 threads per inch (tpi) for diameters above one inch.
Below is a basic summary of a few of the common grades. ASTM A193 covers a number of other standard specifications not covered in this description including B5, B6, and B16.
Grades
| B7 | Alloy steel, AISI 4140/4142 quenched and tempered |
| B8 | Class 1 Stainless steel, AISI 304, carbide solution treated. |
| B8M | Class 1 Stainless steel, AISI 316, carbide solution treated. |
| B8 | Class 2 Stainless steel, AISI 304, carbide solution treated, strain hardened |
| B8M | Class 2 Stainless steel, AISI 316, carbide solution treated, strain hardened |
Mechanical Properties
| Grade | Size | Tensile ksi, min | Yield, ksi, min | Elong, %, min | RA % min |
| B7 | Up to 2-1/2 | 125 | 105 | 16 | 50 |
| 2-5/8 - 4 | 115 | 95 | 16 | 50 | |
| 4-1/8 - 7 | 100 | 75 | 18 | 50 | |
| B8 Class 1 | All | 75 | 30 | 30 | 50 |
| B8M Class 1 | All | 75 | 30 | 30 | 50 |
| B8 Class 2 | Up to 3/4 | 125 | 100 | 12 | 35 |
| 7/8 - 1 | 115 | 80 | 15 | 35 | |
| 1-1/8 - 1-1/4 | 105 | 65 | 20 | 35 | |
| 1-3/8 - 1-1/2 | 100 | 50 | 28 | 45 | |
| B8M Class 2 | Up to 3/4 | 110 | 95 | 15 | 45 |
| 7/8 - 1 | 100 | 80 | 20 | 45 | |
| 1-1/8 - 1-1/4 | 95 | 65 | 25 | 45 | |
| 1-3/8 - 1-1/2 | 90 | 50 | 30 | 45 |
Recommended Nuts and Washers
| Bolt Grade | Nuts | Washers |
| B7 | A194 Grade 2H | F436 |
| B8 Class 1 | A194 Grade 8 | SS304 |
| B8M Class 1 | A194 Grade 8M | SS316 |
| B8 Class 2 | A194 Grade 8 | SS304 |
| B8M Class 2 | A194 Grade 8M | SS316 |
Strain hardened nuts available as a supplementary requirement
How to properly remove and replace the 12mm hex hubs on the traxxas slash, stampede, rustler and so on…..
WRITTEN PROCEDURE:
Tools/Supplies:
1 x Barnett Clutch Cable (I used PN# 102-40-10005)
1 x 13mm wrench
1 x 12mm wrench
2 x 10mm wrenches
1 x 10mm socket
1 x 4″ drive extension
1 x 1/4″ drive ratchet
1 x medium sized adjustable wrench
1 x pair of side cutters
2 x replacement nylon (zip) ties –medium sized preferably black
Removal:
1) Locate the radiator plastic shroud right side mounting bolt under the right foot peg – remove it – 10 mm socket/extension
2) Locate the clutch cable slack adjuster, follow the cable, it will be under the right side of the engine case, covered by a rubber boot
3) Slide the rubber boot off and thread the adjuster together increasing the slack in the cable, (may need 10/12mm wrenches)
4) Use side cutters to cut/remove ONLY the nylon ties, be careful about your old cable and the nylon tie holders, you will want to reuse these for mounting your new cable
5) Follow the cable towards the rear, locate the rear clutch cable mount & loosen the upper mounting nut (the only one you can access) with a 13mm wrench until it completely comes off the threaded barrel
6) Use adjustable wrench and fit it to the end of the clutch rod on the engine gently lift up on the wrench to rotate the clutch rod and release the cable end from the clutch rod bevel and groove
7) Lower the clutch cable casing threaded barrel out of its mount (you may have to pull a bit) then slide the clutch cable through the cut out in the mount.
8) At the clutch lever remove the clutch cable casing from its position in the clutch lever mount housing.
9) Swing the clutch cable housing toward the front of the bike, this should push the lever back a bit and allow the cable end to be removed from the bottom of the lever
10) Slide the cable carefully down through the cable cover and then completely down and out between you radiator and the frame, the plastic shroud should be easily pushed aside for this process.
11) Be careful to remember the cable routing for the return trip.
Installation:
1) On new clutch cable and make sure all of the adjusters and set to their zero point, providing you with the most cable slack possible, grease contact points
2) Carefully thread your new clutch cable from the bottom of the Scout back up though between the radiator and the frame, through the cable way to the clutch lever.
3) Insert the cable end into its fitted location in the lever, swing the housing around and into the fitted position in the clutch lever mount.
4) At the engine end of the clutch cable slide the cable through the rear clutch cable mount and push the threaded barrel into place, ignore the nut for now.
5) Use adjustable wrench to rotate clutch rod on the engine while inserting the cable end into the clutch rod cradle and groove
6) Thread the mounting nut onto the threaded barrel of the cable housing and snug
7) Adjust cable slack adjuster nut so there is limited free movement of the clutch lever and also so the clutch rod is not in an engaged or semi engaged position. Snug the clutch cable slack adjuster lock nut with 2 x10mm wrenches
8) Fasten two black nylon ties and thread them through the holders and loop them around the clutch cable and snug to hold the cable in place without damaging the casing or restricting the inner cable’s movement
9) Test ride bike – readjust if necessary
Thank you to Tombsmen on www.indianmotorcycles.net for the written procedure.