https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKHQyeq3yQs SEE THIS LINK; THE UPDATED INFO ON THIS FIX.
I’VE REBUILT THE LOW END ON THIS TRANSMISSION NOW AND SHE’S ALL BACK TOGETHER BUT CAN’T START HER YET THANKS TO A P.O.S. SCHUMACHER BATTERY CHARGER THAT IS NOT REALLY CHARGING ON A NEW BATTERY SHIPPED DEC2013.
you’ll need a welder to make a spot weld on the tip of the pin. Use a caliper to measure the pin first, so you’ll know how much to grind off later if you do a total rebuild or just low band replacement job.
You’ll need a large oil pan, 10mm, 8mm sockets, both of which you’ll need on a 1/4″ drive using a 3″ extension( or less maybe), the 1/2″ drive is for the 10mm sockets and you will need some extensions. Now there is a problem with accessing 2 of the bolts on the rear of the pan, so for that I used a 3/8″ drive and a 10mm easy out, since those are on tight and like to strip !!!!!!! (maybe because of the angle you’ll need to get in there thanks to GM’s professional grade engineering haha).
And a JACK with a large 12x12x24″ block of solid strong wood or something similar. I used jack stands only as safety but they had no load on them.
That should cover your tools, but don’t forget you’ll need a filtering funnel that will fit into the refill hose in the engine compartment near the firewall.
Know the difference between the engine oil and the transmission fluid. Use only dextron mercon 3 synthetic or just the best you can find. Also it’s good to add Lucas.
I reused most of my oil, I added a new quart. I had it flushed 3000 miles ago and added Lucas.
It can look a little dirty but you don’t want it laquered or dark brown. If there is no color red that’s easy to spot right off the bat, replace that nasty oil immediately.
Always have a magnet stick incase you drop parts into the oil pan also.
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