Nylon Tip Socket Set Screws
Metric Size: M1.4-M52, Inch Size: 0# - 2"
Various Drive and Point Types
Various Surface Finishes
Other Material Grades are available
Please feel free to contact us for more details
The Problem
Carbon rich recirculated exhaust gasses leave deposits within the EGR valve which restrict or damage the EGR valve causing vehicle faults.
The EGR valve on these vehicles is designed to redirect a portion of the vehicles exhaust gases back to the engine through the intake manifold. Carbon rich recirculated exhaust gasses enter the EGR valve before the intake manifold, over time Carbon deposits gather in the EGR valve and can interfere with the operation of the EGR valve flap and can block air flow. Resulting in reduced fuel economy and vehicle performance. Often this build up damages the EGR valves which are expensive to replace. This malfunction of the valve or blocking of the exhaust port causes Detonation (also known as pinging or spark knock) causing misfiring or rough idle. Many examples can be found across the internet showing these EGRs completely blocked up with carbon; significantly reducing airflow to the intake.
Symptoms of the fault
Rough engine running
Misfiring
Decreased throttle response
Loss of power or torque
Smokey engine
Low MPG / decreased MPG
Vehicle stalling at low speeds
Acceleration slow / sluggish
Vehicles affected and compatibility
BMW engines M47 M47N M57 M47N2 M67 M47R
3 series E46
318d 2001-2005
318td 2002-2004
320d 1997- 2005
320cd 2003- 2006
320td 2000-2004
330d 1998-2003
330xd 2000-2003
5 series E39
520d 1999-2003
525d 1999-2003
530d 1997-2003
X5 E53
3.0d 2000-2003
X3 E83
2.0d 2003-2006
E38 7 Series
730d 1997-2001
740d 1998-2001
E65 7 Series
740d 2001-2005
Rover 75 MG ZT 2001-2005
Land Rover Freelander TD4 2001-2006
Land Rover Range Rover TD6 2002-2006
This item is not compatible with quick release style hoses.
Vehicles which utilise a vacuum operated EGR will not show a fault code when replaced with our EGR blank. Vehicles with an electronically operated EGR will show a fault code which will need to be mapped out. This is the same for all suppliers of EGR blanks whether stated or not.
This item is for diesel vehicles only not for petrol vehicles.
Associated part numbers:
11717785452, 11717804378, 7785452, 7804378, 11717793484, LR005791, WAV000040, 7.28138.00.0, 7.28138.02.0, 7.28264.00.0, 7.28264.06.0, 555229, 14406, 14433, EGR251, EGR258, ERV190, ERV208, Pierburg.
Part numbers are for guidance only, please inspect your EGR to ensure you are purchasing the correct blank.
Our solution
Our kit allows easy replacement of the EGR valve with our improved design part which stops any recirculated exhaust gases entering the intake manifold. Resolving vehicle faults and stopping carbon build ups in future.
Install our completely Stainless Steel EGR blank and eliminate build up in the intake manifold. This allows the engine to breath better which can improve vehicle performance and fuel efficiency. Our EGR blanking kit stops these recirculated exhaust gases entering the intake manifold, eliminating the risk of future build ups.
Our kit is the most comprehensive available including all components required to delete the EGR valve and will fit in the same way as the OEM part. You will receive:
1x Stainless steel EGR tube, precision machined and all constructed from stainless steel, featuring a substantial bead to ensure an air tight seal with the intercooler hose.
4x Stainless steel EGR to intake manifold bolts.
1x Intake manifold to EGR rubber gasket.
1X vacuum pipe blanking plug with cable tie to secure.
2x Stainless steel EGR cooler blanks to allow you to blank off the EGR cooler if installed on your vehicle.
1X Exhaust manifold blank with Cemjo high temperature gasket and fasteners allowing you to remove the EGR to Exhaust manifold flexible tube that often blocks or splits.
Our kit is top of the range and the most comprehensive kit available. Check out our instructions and video to see how our kit allows you to successfully eliminate the EGR valve on your vehicle.
Possible advantages of EGR deleting:
Turbo can spool up quicker and at lower revs resulting in less turbo lag.
Prevents carbon build-up inside intake manifold and ports.
Smoother pick up from idle, engine running and better fuel economy.
Increases in power and / or torque which slowly fades as carbon builds up.
Improved fuel consumption / MPG.
You will receive
1x Stainless steel EGR delete tube
4x Stainless steel EGR delete tube mounting bolts
1x Stainless steel exhaust manifold to egr pipe blank
1x High temp CEMJO exhaust manifold blank gasket
2X Exhaust manifold blank bolts with locking washers
2X Stainless steel EGR cooler blanking plates
1X Intake manifold to EGR gasket
1X Vacuum tube plug with cable tie
Making A Rectangular Bluing Tray, by Clickspring
It can be a bit hit and miss getting a consistent, uniform blue on long slender parts like clock hands. So I made a third component for the bluing tray set, to do the job right. Using a scrap piece of brass left over from the frames of the current clock build, I used a shop made D bit to mill some grooves so that it could be folded into the shape of a box.
The other videos that this video is related to are:
“Spare Parts #8 – Making A D Bit Single Flute Milling Cutter “: https://youtu.be/jlNxvnOxMCE
“Home Machine Shop Tool Making – Making A Versatile Bluing Tray”: https://youtu.be/8h1Uf9bkc3E
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/clickspring
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Abbreviated Transcript:
00:03 This bluing tray set that I made in a previous video has been working well for bluing screws and other small parts.
00:13 In particular the tray with brass shavings is very effective at distributing the heat slowly and evenly across the part, ensuring a uniform blue finish.
00:20 But some of the blued parts coming up in the clock build in the near future, are quite long and thin, so a longer tray will be required when I blue them.
00:29 However the box shape would present a bit of a challenge at the soldering stage if it
00:42 was made of separate parts, so I’m making it as one piece that can then be folded into shape. Now there a quite a few ways to tackle this job, but I thought I’d show you a mill equivalent of the super glue arbor you’ve seen me use so often on the lathe
00:54 I’m using this block of aluminium to hold the workpiece, and the first thing I’m going to do is give it a light resurface with this flycutter. The flycutter is shop made, and has quite a lot of mass in the disc, and generally gives me a smooth cut.
01:30 Acetone cleans off the surface, and a light coating of glue is enough to hold the part. Once the work is in position, pressure from the spindle holds it in place as the glue cures.
01:44 I can now machine all of the exposed surfaces in the one operation, starting with the perimeter. I’ve made this D Bit cutter specifically to cut the v grooves. Click the link if you’d like to see a video showing how this was made.
02:18 The cutter has an included angle of 92 degrees, which is going to help when it comes to bending everything to shape later. I also shifted the cutter across to take a final skim cut on the sides of each groove, to create a little more space for the solder to fill.
02:39 And as always with superglue, a gentle heat breaks the bond. The little corner pieces need to be removed before I can fold the box to shape, so I used a jewellers saw takes care of those, and then I tidied up the saw cut on the belt sander.
03:13 A little heat from the propane torch to anneals the brass, and then once it had cooled down
03:18 I set about forming it into the shape of a box, with some flux, silver solder and tying wire. Now that the brass is annealed, it bends easily without cracking, leaving a small gap for the solder.
04:30 The brass holds the box shape well when its cool, but it’ll flex and sag quite a lot when under heat, so I used some soft tying wire to bind it all together for the soldering operation. A little more flux, and then a good measure of silver solder was placed into position, enough to form a decent fillet when it flows.
05:22 The work always looks a bit rough after silver soldering, but the main objective has been achieved, a good solid join, with a nice fillet. The bracing wire can now come off, and the surfaces given a general clean up with coarse grit emery paper.
05:41 The corners came out quite close and square, but I decided it would be better to round
them off, to match the curve of the bent edges. Then I took the part back to the mill, to form the thread for the handle.
06:14 Now the tray should lean comfortably on the handle when its sitting on the bench, so the feet need to be positioned slightly forward of the center of gravity to achieve this. Using a scrap rod, I decided on a pivot distance that gave a good result, and then formed the holes and threads for the feet.
07:46 With the addition of this rectangular tray, the bluing tray set can now accommodate most of the common shapes and sizes I’ll need to blue over the next few clock projects. And of course what better way to test it, than with a Clickspring.
References:
“The Model Engineers Workshop Manual” pg 94
George H Thomas
The many forum posts on the subject of D Bits
by John “Bogstandard” Moore
Making A Rectangular Bluing Tray, by Clickspring.