UPDATE – (original posting follows) 22nd May 2015 at dismantling of old front strut: The cause of the damage can now be ascertained, of the broken spring seat currently fitted to the car. The bonnet is nearly punctured, as I write this having removed the strut. No pic on this video but my background in Engineering helps me to determine, the problem is caused by 2 main factors.
ONE – the bump stop, or ‘spring helper’ as it is commonly known. It is a rubber bung that sits at the top of the damper rod (that’s the main spindle rod thing sticking out of the heavy bottom steel unit with the mounting lugs on). On moderate to hard bumps, this is struck by the lower unit, that is its purpose, but this puts massive strain on the spring seat, badly designed to start with.
I note, the strut unit was replaced a year back, but not the spring seat. The new unit has a bigger bump stop/spring helper/rubber bung so it gets hit more – this was a good thing but not for the spring seat, it lasted ten years under the old strut, the new one killed it in one.
TWO – corrosion. There seems on the worn damaged one taken off the car, a lot of old, satin-polished rust on the small steel pipe that is the bit that slides over the damper rod. In combo with the massive forces placed upon this seat by the car hitting the rubber bung, the spring seat hasn’t a chance.
SOLUTION – New spring seat, I will try 2 big flat stainless washers top & bottom to spread the load, cut rubber bung shorter, fit some coil spring assisters or similar, to try and stop the bungs being struck as much. You cannot ask superglue steel/rubber bond alone, to stop the mass of a bouncing front of a Volvo, from breaking this component. Bad design, and my cheap new struts stopped damping within 18 months, exacerbating the issue (more impact on rubber bung, bouncing more times)..
BACK TO ORIGINAL POST:
My 2003 Volvo has a damaged front strut spring seat, it generally manifests as a bad clunk on severe bumps or potholes. It is not unheard of for the strut to punch into or even through the bonnet (hood) but things have to be let go pretty far for that to happen – I hope!
This is just a description of how much extra the heavy duty IPD component weighs, compared to the more OEM-type like the Febi one here. Febi are a good make, but these designs are inherently weak. Febi might even be better than most – dunno, it is of German manufacture at least.
Costs: Febi one was sold to me for nearly £20 each. IPD Heavy Duty or uprated one, about £40 each. The bog-standard any-old supplier ebay ones of uncertain pedigree are as cheap as £12 each including postage.
In the end, the Febi one is 581g in weight from an Amazon listing, and I work this IPD uprated one out as about 750g in weight using that Febi as the standard.
Some of these last less than a year in a V70, it’s a job that you don’t want to do in British weather, on an annual basis.
This video compares the design improvements and the weight difference, obvs IPD HD uprated ones are bigger-built and heavier. Fitment date soon on my vehicle, weather-dependent.
https://www.etrailer.com/tv-Grill-Install-2007-Chevy-Tahoe.aspx
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on this 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe we are going to install part number P303158 from Putco. This is their Putco liquid billet grille. In this particular unit we are going to install their spiderweb version. What this product does is it actually mounts on the top of the existing grille you have so you do not have to remove any parts at all. It is pretty easy to install you just have to loosen the grille up to get some working room but that is about it. The first thing we need to do is open the hood. The grille that is going to fit on top of this grille, the mounting point is right about this area so to get to that we are going to have to reach in from the top and over. It is really kind of hard to do with the space we have so that is why we are going to loosen up the grille. To do that we have got a series of bolts on the top to undo. It is really easy stuff. Basically we just need about one inch of room and we are good to go. 00:52
Give it a quick test fit. Install the bolt then slip behind the grille and install this little plate. The nuts on the plate back here are nylon lock nuts so you have got a little bit of a drag when you install the bolt. It will get drawn up just enough to hold everything in place we will go over to the other side and repeat the same process. On the lower grille there is just one on each side and there are two on the top that makes our four. So once we have it set the way we want it, maybe a little bit left and right to center it. Once you have it the way you want it snug these bolts down. You do not have to crush them, just enough to draw the two grilles together. It is looking good already. Lets do the top half now. Put the whole grille assembly back into position and put those bolts back in. We have got our bolts snugged down finger tight. Now lets give them a quick turn with a wrench and we will be good to go. Within ten minutes time we have already changed the look of this truck. With that, that finishes our install of part number P303158 from Putco.