New Arrival China ASTM A449 Hex Cap Screws for Juventus Factories

ASTM A449 Hex Cap Screws Hex Bolts Standard: ASME B18.2.1 unless otherwise specified (Various types of configuration are also available) Thread Size: 1/4”-3” with various lengths Grade: ASTM A449 Type-1 Finish: Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, Dacromet, Hot Dip Galvanized, PTFE and so on Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet Advantage: High Quality and Strict Quality Control, Competitive Price,Timely Delivery; Technical Support, Supply Test Reports Please feel free to contact us for more details.

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    The Right-Way to Remove Loosen Rusty Bolts.
    The worst thing about working on old car, trucks or jeeps is loosening/removing the rusty frozen bolts and rusty nuts. As long as there are no rubber parts or anything flammable nearby the best thing to use use to remove frozen rusty bolts or nut is heat from a propane torch. You can use an acetylene torch also but you have the danger of overheating the metal and melting it. The heat from the propane torch is just right to free the rusty bolts up. Heat will work to free up frozen bolts much better than any penetrating oil. Btw, (if you have the time) Kroil is about the best stuff there is for penetrating the threads on rusty bolts.
    Another trick with using heat from a propane torch is that is the perfect amount of heat to remove bolts or nuts installed with Loctite Red. Loctite Red is typically used for a permanent installation. You need heat to break down the Loctite Red if you want to remove the nut or bolt. The heat from a propane is perfect for that. A heat gun may not be hot enough and an acetylene torch could melt things too much.
    The other trick for the worst stuck fasteners – nuts and bolts is to use reverse drill bits and easy-outs. If you use heat and then try the easy-out, you will often have no problem when using them combined. Again use the propane because you will not melt the steel. Sometimes just drilling with the reverse drill will un-thread the broken off bolt that is stuck inside. Also sometimes drilling off the head of a bolt will relieve a lot of the grip and that helps when using the easy-out.



    Learn to replace a pressed wheel bearing in a Ford, specifically a 95 Ford Windstar, but this method will be similar for all pressed bearing vehicles.
    The main steps are to take off the spindle nut, tire, brake caliper, and rotor. Then remove the bolts from the lower control arm ball joint, tie rod, and strut. Remove the steering knuckle, then press out the bearing and hub/spindle. Then press in your new bearing and hub/spindle. This job is a little more complex but can still be easily done by any amateur mechanic. You will save $400-1000 depending on your vehicle.

    Here is how to Replace a Hub Bearing Assembly (rear wheel drive): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04AyCYIUEWQ
    Here is how to Replace a Hub Bearing Assembly (front wheel drive): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fe_WtKIKlYA
    Bearing Press Tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZABHLQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00AZABHLQ&linkCode=as2&tag=chri0e2-20&linkId=EIBAN5P55H2K2M5C

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    Disclaimer:
    Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.