In this tutorial, we will be showing you how to properly attach the leaf, Airlift panel, and cabinet door to the Arrow SewNatra cabinets found on our site:
SewNatra in Oak: https://www.overstock.com/Crafts-Sewing/Arrow-Sewnatra-Oak-Finish-Airlift-Crafts-Sewing-Machine-Table-with-Storage-and-Organization-Cabinet/7502095/product.html?cache=no
SewNatra in White: https://www.overstock.com/Crafts-Sewing/Arrow-Sewnatra-White-Airlift-Crafts-Sewing-Machine-Table-with-Storage-and-Organization-Cabinet/6518575/product.html?cache=no
https://www.overstock.com/Crafts-Sewing/Arrow-Sewnatra-Black-Airlift-Crafts-Sewing-Machine-Table-with-Storage-and-Organization-Cabinet/6518574/product.html?cache=no
SewNatra in Black: https://www.overstock.com/Crafts-Sewing/Arrow-Sewnatra-Black-Airlift-Crafts-Sewing-Machine-Table-with-Storage-and-Organization-Cabinet/6518574/product.html?cache=no
Before you begin assembly, please make sure you have someone to help you, as well as the following items: a screwdriver, a hammer, a box cutter, a 10mm socket, a 10mm wrench, a segment of your shipping box, and a segment of your shipping foam.
1: Place the round magnet into the “Leaf Support L” pre-drilled magnet hole and hammer the magnet into place.
2: Take the two leaf support hinges, four screws, and a screwdriver. Attach the hinges to the leaf support within the predrilled holes of “Leaf Support L”.
3: Take a stick-on rubber tab and press the tab into place on the top of “Leaf Support L”. Make sure the tab is on the opposite edge from the magnet.
4: Rotate the cabinet gently onto its back. Without touching the front piece, rotate the cabinet onto its feet (the front piece will be more secure when the cabinet top is attached).
5: Take the bag containing 1/4-inch carriage bolts, wing nuts, and washers, and install the carriage bolts through the pre-drilled holes in “Back F” and “Back Brace G”.
6: Take “Lift Panel K” with the Airlift attached and slide the unit onto the carriage bolts. Before proceeding, please make sure that the tops of the two panels are level.
7: Put a washer and wing nut onto each carriage bolt and tighten them. Before you tighten them all the way, hammer the carriage bolts into the back plate to remove any gaps. Now tighten the washers all the way.
8: Take the washer and screw from the magnet bag and install each piece in the predrilled hole on “Left Panel Side C”.
9: Take “Leaf Support L” and the four screw remaining from the hinge bag. Attach “Leaf Support L” to the cabinet by securing the screws within hinges and predrilled holes.
10: To install the top of the cabinet, take parts A and B with the four connecting bolts in place and secure it to the cabinet top. Make sure the flat side is facing the back and the rounded decorative edge is facing the front so that your leaf will open the correct direction. Tighten the connectors from inside the cabinet.
11: Open the leaf support panel and open the leaf. Remove the universal panel to complete the next step.
12: With two people, turn the cabinet on its back and then topside down while one person carefully supports the leaf.
13: Take “Platform J”. Make sure the cream sewing surface is facing down and the curved cut-out is facing the back. Slide it under the lift into the opening.
Optional: To make the next steps easier, insert the styrofoam cut out under the cabinet top back edge for better visibility.
14: Install the metal wings onto the airlift using the eight 6mm hex head bolts, nuts, and washers within the same bag (there will be four bolts per wing). Place the wings on the inside of the airlift with the flange facing the outside. For now, install each bolt loosely. If you used the foam insert, please remove it before the next step.
15: Using your box cutter and shipping box panel, cut out 8-10 cardboard squares to use as shims. Shim “Platform J” into place so that it fits evenly within the cabinet.
16: With the remaining #8 1/2-inch pen head screws, securely attach the wings to “Platform J” with a screw into the predrilled holes.
17: While the second person is holding “Platform J” in place, tighten the hex head bolts.
18: With the help of a second person, turn the cabinet onto its back, and then onto its feet while supporting the leaf.
19: To attach the cabinet door, take the three hinges and 12 screws. Attach the hinges to the door first in the predrilled holes. Attach the door to the cabinet. A second person may be needed to hold the door while attaching the hinges in place.
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Machining A Replacement Pulley With A Keyway, by Clickspring.
In this video, I machine a replacement pulley for my 1″ Delta belt sander. This is a perfect mini lathe project, with some interesting turning between centers, as well as the formation of a keyway using the lathe as a manual shaper.
Be sure to use breathing protection whenever using heat to break a super glue bond.
You can download the dimensioned drawing for this particular pulley for free from the Clickspring website:
Metric: https://www.clickspringprojects.com/uploads/3/8/2/2/38221101/pulley_metric.pdf
Inch: https://www.clickspringprojects.com/uploads/3/8/2/2/38221101/pulley_inch.pdf
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and leave me a comment.
If you would like to help support the creation of these video’s, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/clickspring
For more info on this build, as well as other tool making info and plans, visit https://www.clickspringprojects.com
Other Videos to Watch:
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop – Part 4 – Cutting The Wheels
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop – Part 5 – Cutting The Pinions
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Language Credits:
Portuguese subtitles courtesy of Emanuel Mendes
Transcript:
00:50 The second is the v-groove for the belt. It’s has a 30 degree included angle, and not very deep, so I’ll form that with the lathe compound. And lastly, there’s the set screw hole, which I’ll do on the mill. If you’d like to know the dimensions, I’ve put a link to some free drawings in the description box below.
01:07 These are the materials I’ll be using for the job. I’ve got this excellent little piece of aluminium that’s a left over from another project, although it’s a bit too short for chucking, so I’m going to turn it between centers to form the features. So that means I need an arbor, and I’ve have this nice length of silver steel for that.
01:40 The arbor needs centers on each end, so I set it to run true in a 4 jaw chuck, and then faced and center drilled the ends. Next I drilled and then reamed the slug of aluminium to match the outside diameter of the arbor.
02:35 The work is a nice close fit on the arbor, so a small amount of the glue is enough to hold it firmly in place for the rest of the job provided I don’t let the heat from the cutting, build up too much. I formed a temporary center from some hex stock, and then set up the lathe for turning between centers.
03:46 Next I formed the basic profile of the part. I’d like a nice generous fillet in the corner for strength, so I’ve ground quite a large radius on the cutting tool. a lot of cutter contact when it’s right in the corner, but a shallow depth of cut It means there’s made the chatter quite manageable.
04:24 Then I set the compound over to 15 degrees to cut the flanks of the groove. I’ve ground this narrow, blunt nosed cutting tool to do the cutting. It can cut on both sides of the tool, which is going to be handy in this case, to get a matching surface at the bottom of the pulley groove.
05:43 The facing cuts didn’t quite get to the arbor, so there’s a small burr at each end of the hole to take care of. I used this hand held countersink to knock them off. So with the profile complete, it’s time to sort out the keyway.
06:37 I started by feeding in 2 thousandths with each pass to begin with, but as the cut became more established, I had to reduce that to a half thou per cut, and make 3 passes at each depth. I found that any more than that put too much strain on the carriage wheel.
07:11 The cutting action is not unlike that of a
shaper; it makes similar looking chips. And it generates quite a clean cut. So with the keyway finished, the pulley is almost complete; It just needs a quick trip to the mill to drill and tap a hole for a set screw.
References:
MACHINE SHOP TIPS #151 Cutting a Keyway on the Lathe – a new ”abroach” tubalcain
Machining A Replacement Pulley With A Keyway, by Clickspring.