Hot sale reasonable price DIN 935, ASME B18.2.2, JIS B 1170 Hex Castle Nuts Hex Slotted Nuts Supply to Panama

Hexagon Castle Nuts Hexagon Slotted Nuts Standard: DIN 935, ASME B18.2.4.3M, ASME B18.2.2, JIS B 1170 Metric Size: M6-M100  Inch Size: 1/4”-4” Material Grade: Carbon Steel, Alloy Steel, Stainless Steel covers grade ISO 898-2 class 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12; SAE J995 Grade 2, 5, 8; ASTM A563 A, C, D, DH; ASTM F594 A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H; ISO 3506 A2-70, A2-80, A4-70, A4-80 Finish: Plain, Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, Hop Dipped Galvanized, Dacromet, etc. Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet Advantage: High Quality and Strict Quality Control, Competitive Price,Timely Delivery; Technical Support, Supply Test Reports Please feel free to contact us for more details.

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    Here is a link to the fittings mentioned by Jon06IX https://www.sealconusa.com/strainrelief/nc_wadi/m8_wadi.html

    This is just one of many ways to turn a stock 1G AWD fuel sending unit into a full blown dual in-tank hanger. The parts used to construct yours will depend on many things, but I will explain what I used and why I choose to go that route. If you are going to dual pumps and modifying your hanger, you will also need to upgrade the feed line all the way to the rail.

    The biggest decision is when and where you want to join the fuel pumps into one line. This can and has been done inside the tank in which case you would only have one outlet. I choose to run two 6AN fuel lines 7 feet under the car and connect them into a Y fitting there. The amount of things that you are going to shove in the fuel tank is quite impressive and if you try to add a Y fitting under the hanger it just makes it so much worse.

    Once this decision is made, you choose your line size so you know what fittings to buy. I ended up with two 6AN’s feeding one 8AN line, so I needed two 90* 6AN fittings, two lock nuts, two 6AN hose barb fittings, and 4 Nylon Washers. This constructs the way in and out of the fuel pump with the hanger installed. To make room for the second fitting I drilled out the hole where the power wire terminal used to be (mine was already broken). Don’t worry, you will be making a new pathway for the power wire :) I used Nylon washers due to their compatibility with E85, durability, and air tight seal that they would create.

    You will need your two fuel pumps, a few worm clamps (for the outlet of the fuel pumps and to secure the pumps) and some SUBMERSIBLE fuel line. This fuel line is very expensive but is made to be submerged unlike off the shelf AutoZone fuel line. Both the inside and the outside are coated to protect against premature failure and deterioration which could very well save your motor!!! This hose is also compatible with E85.

    The Small metal stock that you see being cut needs to be made. The hanger has a curve to it that allows the pump to line up in the stock location. During my project, I noticed that this allowed the pump to sit too far back and sit at an angle. My solution was to get a piece of stock that was the same width and just thick enough to make my pump sit flush.

    Next up is the wiring. You need a path for the wires, but there are no holes?? I picked up a variety pack of rubber grommets from the hardware store and found the one to fit my wires. Drill your holes and insert your grommets. I would highly encourage you to solder all the connections and heat shrink them. This is to avoid sparks ESPECIALLY inside the fuel tank. I had to connect the ground wires inside the tank because they were too short to exit the hanger like the power wires and I wanted a good ground for the pumps. The rest of the wiring will be covered in a later video.

    A BIG Thanks goes out to Jon91TSi from Tuners. He sent me an email explaining this process and that is what allowed me to successfully complete this project. Thanks again Jonathan!!!

    I hope that his helps you with your project. If you find this entertaining Like it if you want more Subscribe :)