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https://www.rrrtoolsolutions.com/honda-cb750-frame-kit.php
Gordon’s Frame Kit is designed to give access to the top end of the Honda CB750 SOHC motorcycle produced from 1969 through 1978. With Gordon’s Frame kit you can preform in the frame maintenances and repairs.
The Honda CB750 SOHC motorcycle was not designed for in-the-frame repairs. But, the Gordon Frame Kit makes that possible.
Hi and welcome to this segment of RRR Tool Solutions tool demonstration videos.
We want to talk about our frame kit today. This is specificity designed for the CB 750 Honda. A Single over-head cam produced from 1969 through 1978. These fit the K models and the F models. The idea is that Honda, put a dry sump engine, 736cc, into the CB750 Honda. And when they did that, their intention was that these would not be serviced in the frame.
There is literally a quarter inch of clearance, between the frame rails, that were originally there and the top of the engine cover. The only way to get these covers off, is to unbolt the right side, pull this engine completely out of the frame. Lifting it up and clearing the sump. To alleviate that, a lot of drag-racers and builders, through out the years, would cut away their frame and leave just simply one back bone going from front to back.
I never felt comfortable with that and certainly wouldn’t condone it. So, what I did, when I did my 750 Honda back in 2006, is I came up with a way of replacing the missing rails. You can do that by using our frame kit. Which incorporates part of the triangulated brackets that come with the frame.
These are simply cut-off halfway up to the upper neck back-bone. We use joints. These are robust very heavy-duty half joints. This is a 180 thousand psi oilman rod that has a 180 thousand psi tensel strength. It’s a harden rod.It goes into this insert 1.1 inches and is threaded and kept in there with Lock-tite.
These joints fit together, with grade A hardware. These button-heads make simple work of holding these fasteners together. There is a little bit of clearance here. Left here for powder coat or paint. This is made to be a very tight fit, very strong, very durable.
I have been asked many times, what the strength of this joint system is, as compared to the thin walled tubing. I am quite sure that this tubing would bend like spaghetti, before we ever damaged one of these inserts. I’ve got this separated to show you a couple of things.
One, you are going to get a grade 8, jam nut in here. This is a 7/16 by 20. It’s a grade 8 hardware. This is not for ajustability. What this is for, is to simply lock in place. We’ll put it on here. I’ll show you. This is a blind insert. This insert is fully threaded. Again this is slightly over one inch and is welded up into the inside of the front rails.
Very important to follow that. Because what this allows. And this is welded in this area right here. What this allows is removal of this cylinder head cover. And the cylinder head. So you can get to the piston, the rings, the valve train and so forth.
As well as once that material is removed. Getting the whole engine out is a whole lot easier. But, this does allow for in-the-frame building and servicing, of internal components. Other wise not possible on the 750 Honda. It’s very important that these blind inserts are there. So that when these are threaded in. I’ll show you the importance of that.
As you see, this assembled piece will literately unbolt and leave this whole area free. What we’ve done here, again we’ve turn this on the side see. It’s very importance that you see the clearance.
We’ve gone in and simulated, the fact that we’ve welded in the blind-joints. Which again you saw the threaded 7/16 twenty, 180 thousand psi, oil-rod used. Inserted 1.1 inches down into the joint. This is a solid steel billet joint. You seen us go in there. The importance of that is that this section, along with the threaded rod, will completely unscrew. Giving unrestricted access, for the cover and the cylinder head, to come up through the frame.
The other thing is we went ahead and simulated the welding in of the back joints. Again this is necessary so these will stay fixed. We are going to put this all back together so we can now have a ridged frame. And again replace the structural integrity.
So what we will do here is we will. And there’s two bolts on each joint. And these are grade A bolts. You can torque these down to 14 foot lbs. I would encourage you to use a locking agent. Such as Lock-Tite Blue, medium strength. That’s what I use.
Now, this is a demonstration model. Obviously the factory piece would have another triangulated piece here to hold that together. You would be dealing with a single bracket.
This was for demonstration only to show how the joints were put together. I’ll show you again on this side reaching over how easy this was.
Now, that is the kit installed.