Hex Cap Screws Price - ASTM F436 F436M Hardened Steel Washers – Dingshen Metalworks

Product Detail

ASTM F436 F436M Hardened Steel Washers Hardened Circular, Clipped Circular, and Extra-Thick Washers, Beveled Washers Metric Size: M12-M100 Inch Size: 1/4”-4” Material Grade: Through hardened washers shall have a hardness of 38 to 45 HRC, except when zinc-coated by the hot-dip process, in which case they shall have a hardness of 26 to 45 HRC. Metric washers are suitable for use with fasteners covered in Specifications A 325M, A 490M, A 563M and with fasteners of Specification F 568 property classes 8.8 and higher. Inch washers are suitable for use with fasteners covered in Specifications A325, A 354, A 449, and A 490. Finish: Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, Hot Dip Galvanized, Dacromet, and so on Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet Advantage: High Quality and Strict Quality Control, Competitive price, Timely delivery; Technical support, Supply Test Reports Please feel free to contact us for more details.

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Hex Cap Screws Price - ASTM F436 F436M Hardened Steel Washers – Dingshen Metalworks Related Video:

How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop, Part 10, by Clickspring.

The chapter ring gets a little extra bling in this episode, with the addition of an ornamental bezel.

Plenty of lathe and milling operations in this video, as well as some of my favourite activity at the moment: hand turning with a graver.

Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and leave me a comment.

If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/clickspring

For more info on this build, as well as other tool making info and plans, visit https://www.clickspringprojects.com

Other Videos to Watch:

How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop – Part 8 – Making The Barrel Arbor

</amp-iframe></p> <p>Home Machine Shop Tool Making – Machining The Clock Pillars</p> <p><iframe width="500" height="281" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/DoDkoioiR6w?feature=oembed" ></amp-iframe></p> <p>Ask Me A Question:</p> <p>https://www.clickspringprojects.com/contact.html</p> <p>Follow Clickspring:</p> <p>https://www.facebook.com/Clickspring1</p> <p>https://plus.google.com/u/0/113668471124073837794/posts</p> <p>https://instagram.com/clickspring1/</p> <p>https://www.tumblr.com/blog/clickspring1</p> <p>https://www.pinterest.com/clickspring1</p> <p>https://www.patreon.com/clickspring</p> <p>Transcript:</p> <p>0:00:20 Wilding doesn’t describe the fabrication of a bezel in his construction notes, but I think it will really add to the visual impact of the clock, and it’s a feature that’s consistent with the tradition of this design. I’d like the outer bezel to dominate visually, so I’m going to give it an ornamental pattern.<br /> 0:00:42 The real challenge for this part is simply holding onto it to make the cuts, and if you’ve been watching the previous videos in this series, you won’t be surprised to see me reaching for another super glue arbor. I’ve sized this arbor to give me access to the front and perimeter of the part, and to also allow me to make a trepanning cut in the center which I’ll show you in a moment.<br /> 0:01:03 Once the blank was fixed in place, I trimmed the perimeter to size. Then I made the trepanning cut to remove the stock from the center. This slug of brass will make an excellent great wheel on a future clock. The inside diameter was brought to dimension, and then I formed the recess to accept the chapter ring.<br /> 0:01:58 At this point I’m giving it a very slight back taper, for a snap fit with the chapter ring, and good undercut for a close seating. I’ve machined a register on a second arbor to be a close fit in that recess. This arbor will then hold the part from the other side, so that I can machine the other face.<br /> 0:02:38 The fit with the register is nice and close; all it needs is a small amount of superglue to hold it in place.<br /> 0:02:51 I want the ornamental cuts to be precisely the same depth around the entire piece. The work was then set up on the mill to form the pattern. I’m using a rotary table for indexing, and I’m making the cut with this shop made D bit cutter.<br /> 0:03:11 I’ve shaped it with a wide angle on the tip, to give a broad shallow cut that I hope will generate interesting reflections from the light. The cutter was positioned over the work, and a series of fine cuts were made to create the pattern.<br /> 0:04:32 The milling needs a little tidying up at the edges, so I re-mounted the work in the lathe, and carefully skimmed the perimeter. I also pulled out the form tools that I usedin a previous video to make the pillars. I used them here to put a light camber on the outside edge, as well as a nice contour on the inside rim.<br /> 0:05:02 So before anything else I put on a coat of lacquer. I will need to redo this again later. But for now it’ll keep the oxidation to a minimum. So now on to the inner bezel. And in some respects this part was more difficult to make, simply because it ends up so small and flimsy.<br /> 0:05:24 I held it in a similar way using a super glue arbor, and started by truing up the disc, and then machining the recess for the chapter ring.<br /> 0:06:00 I turned up another arbor with a register that matched the rim, and then after it was fixed into place, I formed the basic profile of the bezel. I finished the final profiling by hand using this high speed steel graver.<br /> 0:06:29 And I know I’ve said it before, but I just can’t get enough of this freehand turning, especially on brass. So with both the inner and outer bezel complete, its time for a closer look at how it all fits together.<br /> 0:07:46 And that’s the bezel done for now. Now whilst the outer bezel is a good fit, I think it would be better to have a more robust idea to lock it in place, so in the next video, I’ll make some bezel screws that should do the job.</p> <p>References:</p> <p>John Wilding “Large Wheel Skeleton Clock” construction book can be purchased online from Ian T Cobb: </p> <p>https://www.clockmaking-brass.co.uk/clock_construction_books.htmL</p> <p>How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop, Part 10, by Clickspring.</p> <p><amp-iframe width="360" height="180" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin" layout="responsive" frameborder="0" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mxAj-zbynPI" ></amp-iframe><br /> <br />How to remove and install a self extracting crank on a bike.</p> <p>Questions or comments? Leave them below! </p> <p>See all our Crank & Pedal videos in our Crank & Pedal playlist ▶︎ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGCTGpvdT04SdAP5vThZlOInVsJ891lm4</p> <p>Video contents:<br /> 00:58 Tools Needed<br /> 01:18 Removal<br /> 02:44 Installation Quick Tip<br /> 03:21 Installation – Two Piece Crank Set<br /> 04:51 Installation – Three Piece Crank Set</p> <p>➤ Tools & materials used:<br /> • SPA-2 Pin Spanner – https://www.parktool.com/product/pin-spanner-red-spa-2<br /> • or SPA-6 Pin Spanner – https://www.parktool.com/product/adjustable-spanner-spa-6<br /> • HT-6 6mm Hex Tool – https://www.parktool.com/product/6mm-hex-tool-ht-6<br /> • or HT-10 10mm Hex Tool – https://www.parktool.com/product/10mm-hex-tool-ht-10<br /> • HMR-4 Shop Hammer – https://www.parktool.com/product/shop-hammer-hmr-4<br /> • TW-6.2 Ratcheting “Click Type” Torque Wrench – https://www.parktool.com/product/ratcheting-click-type-torque-wrench-tw-6-2<br /> • SBS-1.2 Socket & Bit Set – https://www.parktool.com/product/socket-and-bit-set-sbs-1-2<br /> • PPL-1 PolyLube 1000 Lubricant – https://www.parktool.com/product/polylube-1000-lubricant-tube-ppl-1</p> <p>For a text-based walk-through of this process: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/crank-removal-and-installation-self-extracting</p> <p>➤ Subscribe: https://www.youtube.com/user/parktoolcompany?sub_confirmation=1<br /> ➤ Like: https://www.facebook.com/parktool<br /> ➤ Follow: https://www.instagram.com/parktoolblue</p> <p>➤ Fix It:<br /> Did you know that Park Tool is the #1 resource for bicycle repair education?<br /> • Visit our YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/parktool<br /> • Visit the Repair Help section of Parktool.com: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/<br /> • Check out The Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair: https://www.parktool.com/product/big-blue-book-of-bicycle-repair-3rd-edition-bbb-3</p> <p>➤ About Park Tool:<br /> Since our founding in 1963, Park Tool has been the leading name in bicycle tools. Our YouTube channel is an extension of our mission to be the ultimate resource for mechanics and riders of all skill levels. Here you will find comprehensive repair help tutorials for a wide range of components and processes, as well as troubleshooting guides, tips and tricks, and information on the latest Park Tool products.</p> <p>➤ More Crank & Pedal Repair Help:<br /> • Crank Type Identification ▶︎ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMV-SOIhM2c<br /> • Crank Removal and Installation – Two Piece Compression Slotted (Hollowtech II, FSA) ▶︎ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqBtB8Kyl2U<br /> • Crank Removal and Installation – Three Piece Crankset (Square Spindle, ISIS, Octalink) ▶︎ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPQyQnNdews<br /> • Crank Removal and Installation – One Piece ▶︎ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpl_wlTBC8k<br /> • Crank Removal and Installation – Campagnolo® Ultra-Torque ▶︎https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntsI0-ScBVc<br /> • Crank Removal and Installation – Campagnolo® Power-Torque ▶︎ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0IKYhvuyLA<br /> • Pedal Removal and Installation ▶︎ 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