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Click here for detail specs or to buy the ZT 0562CF Hinderer Slicer Carbon Fiber Folding Knife: https://www.osograndeknives.com/catalog/knives/zero-tolerance-hinderer-slicer-folding-knife-carbon-fiber-3.5-inch-stonewash-zt-0562cf-26151.html

The Zero Tolerance model 0562CF is the cousin of the 0562, this ZT features the same special Rick Hinderer flat-ground slicer grind that provides both slicing efficiency and a tough point, but on a Böhler M390 powdered steel blade.

With a high chromium and vanadium content, M390 offers good wear resistance with excellent corrosion resistance. This powdered metallurgy stainless steel takes a razor edge and holds it well. It can also be polished to a mirror finish and is very tough.

The Hinderer Slicer 0562CF’s handle has a carbon fiber front scale and stonewashed titanium back. For secure lock up during use, ZT uses a frame lock with hardened steel lockbar inserts and lockbar stabilization.

The knife opens with a flipper and moves out of the handle on a smooth KVT ball-bearing opening system. A washer with caged ball bearings surrounds the pivot and makes opening the knife nearly frictionless; just pull back on the flipper and add a roll of the wrist and the 0562CF is ready for action.

The unique pocketclip is reversible (left/right) and enables extra-deep carry in the pocket.

Specifications:

Overall Length: 8.25 in.
Blade Length: 3.50 in.
Blade Thickness: 0.16 in.
Blade Material: Bohler M390 Super Steel
Blade Style: Drop Point
Blade Grind: Flat
Finish: Stonewash and Satin Finish
Edge Type: PlainEdge
Handle Length: 4.75 in.
Handle Thickness: 0.48 in.
Handle Material: Carbon Fiber Front and Stonewashed Titanium Back
Frame/Liner: Titanium
Weight: 5.45 oz.
Pocket Clip: Ambidextrous Deep Carry Tip-Up Pocket Clip
Knife Type: Manual with KVT ball-bearing System
Opener: Flipper, Thumb Stud
Lock Type: Frame Lock with Lockbar Stabilizer
Brand: Zero Tolerance
Model: 0562CF
Designer: Rick Hinderer
Made in USA

View all Zero Tolerance Knives… https://www.osograndeknives.com/store/catalog/m-zero-tolerance-319-1.html

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My wife and I are planning on building a vertical log cabin, often referred to as a stockade style log cabin. Here are some pictures to give you an idea. Here’s one…here’s another, and here you go.

Anyway we’ll be moving to Alaska, probably near the Kenai Peninsula or Matanuska Valley. Of course we’re going to try and avoid permafrost, but who knows exactly what kind of land we’ll buy.

Our vertical log cabin in Alaska will be constructed on concrete posts that’ll be poured into Sonotubes that are buried below the frost line (probably around 40 to 50 inches underground).

And then the posts will come up about 18 inches into the air…at which point we’ll begin the cabin. So yes, the cabin will be raised about 18 inches off the ground.

Anyway, I have no experience to build anything of this magnitude, but this doesn’t scare me. My wife and I look forward to the challenge. So needless to say, I have a lot of questions, lots more research to do, and plenty of planning that awaits us.

I’m posting this video to present my plan for the concrete posts and the insulated floor that will sit atop these 10 concrete posts.

First, here is my rough sketch for our small vertical log cabin. It’s 10 feet by 35 feet. I’ve kind of modeled it after an RV, so I call it our RV cabin. It seems like it’ll be a nice comfortable cabin that will serve us well. And it seems like it’ll be somewhat easier to build than other plans.

Anyway, I’ll make another video later on and go over the interior and how everything will be laid out.

Okay…so here is my plan for the concrete posts and the insulated cabin floor.

1)The grass (or the ground). We’ll start by clearing the ground and marking off the perimeter of the cabin, making sure the 90 degree angles are correct.

2)We’ll dig our holes for the concrete posts and fill the bottoms with about 6 to 12 inches of gravel.

3)Then we’ll insert our Bigfoot footing that has

4)…the 12 to 18 inch diameter cardboard Sonotube, and then will fill them both with concrete.

5)We’ll make sure to insert 3 rebar bars before the pouring. What size rebar is best? Thoughts?

6)The sill bolt will go into the Sonotube before pouring and the bolt will stick out about 6-12 inches.

So after we pour the concrete, we go on to…

7)This is the part I’m a little unsure about it. Should we put down some kind of thick plastic sheeting that will be directly in contact with the elements, or should we apply some kind of coating to #8, the bottom subfloor)? Would polyurethane work?

8)So the bottom subfloor will be hooked onto the sill bolts. I’m guessing we should drill a hole in the bottom subfloor sheet of wood, and then just hook the board to all of the sill bolts. Right?

9)This sill log will be a 3-sided log (here’s a picture) And we’ll mill this sill log with an Alaskan saw mill…which is an attachment to a chainsaw.

10)So here we’ll put in the floor joists by attaching them to the sill log by means of a gain and tenon fit. And then we’ll put in the insulation.

11)Here we’ll nail on the top subfloor. Should we put any kind of coating on this? Polyurethane?

So after we erect the vertical logs complete with the roof, we’ll add #12, the carpet.

Okay? So what do you think? Please don’t be shy about your critique! I can handle constructive criticisms! Thanks a lot and please leave a comment if you have any thoughts about our plan.

Thanks!