Video tutorial on how to replace and preload the front wheel bearing on a Ford Ranger 2wd. If you are removing the wheel bearing, you must remove the caliper carrier, which I do have a video on that particular procedure. This video can also be used for wheel bearing maintenance beyond replacement as wheel bearings do need to be checked and lubricated about every 12,000miles/20,000km or once a year. Proper maintenance intervals will ensure the wheels bearings do not have any premature failures. This particular tutorial was done on a 1998 Ford Ranger regular cab short box 2wd.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-jack
-axle stand
-large interlocking pliers
-pliers
-johnson/breaker bar
-15mm socket
-13mm socket
-24mm socket
-ratchet
-hammer
-wheel bearing grease
-two cotter pins
-degreaser
-rubber gloves (used in the video is Permatex Black 5 mil Nitrile Disposable Gloves #08184)
Procedure:
-the caliper and carrier must be removed in order to remove the wheel bearing
-remove the grease cap using interlocking pliers
-remove the cotter pin which holds the nut into place
-remove the metal retaining cap
-remove the 24mm nut holding the hub assembly into place
-pull the rotor back until the flat washer is flush with the spindle shaft, then push it back
-this will allow us to easily remove the washer and outer wheel bearing
-remove the rotor and hub assembly
-new bearings do come with an outer race which is not needed considering the hub assemblies already have them installed
-take a glob of grease and place it in the palm of your hand
-push the grease throughout the bearing, removing any empty spaces or pockets
-once satisfied, place the inner bearing in its location, then apply some more grease against the bearing and around the edge of the seal
-place the seal in its location and gently tap it in using a hammer on the elevated side
-remove the old grease using some paper towel on the spindle shaft
-use a degreaser if needed as well
-using a wire brush, clean the sealing surface at the end of the spindle shaft
-remove any loose debris which can contaminate the bearing assembly
-give the spindle shaft a final wipe down and install the assembly
-rotate the rotor to help seat the seal, then install the outer bearing, washer, and nut
-rotate the hub which will help seat the bearing while tightening the nut to 17 to 25 ft lbs
-if you are using an inch pound torque wrench such as me, it will be 204 to 300 inch pounds
-back the nut off half a turn
-retorque nut 18 to 20 inch pounds
-make sure there is no play, install the metal retainer cap and orient the cap so the holes line up for the cotter pin
-install a new cotter pin and bent over the ends
-reinstall the grease cap and gently tap it into place using a hammer
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© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.
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All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at https://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: https://blog.bavauto.com/
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In Part-1 of this two part series, we will replace the front shock/strut/spring assembly. See Part-2 for the rear shock and spring replacement.
The Bentley repair manuals will cover standard shock and spring replacement for the various BMW and MINI models. This DIY will assume that the DIYer has the applicable Bentley manual for additional reference as well as fastener torque values. Note that we will be installing the Bilstein PSS-10 coil-over kit. However, the procedures would be the same for any common shock/strut replacement (including installing sport springs, if desired).
PARTS USED:
• New shocks/struts (Bilstein, Koni, Sachs, etc.)
• New sport or stock replacement springs, if desired (BMW, BavAuto, Eibach, etc.)
• New Shock install kits (compression bumpers, dust shields, spring pads, etc.)
• New upper strut and shock mounts
• New strut & shock mount gaskets (as required)
• Rear shock mount reinforcing plates
TOOLS USED:
• Bentley Repair Manual
• BavAuto Non-Marring pry bar set
* BavAuto spring compressor tool
• 13mm through 18mm ½”drive socket & ratchet set with various extensions
• 4mm through 8mm Allen keys or bits (for ratchet use)
• 13mm through 18mm combination wrench set
• Assorted flat and Phillips screwdrivers
PROCEDURE:
FRONT (applies directly to the E46 3-series, but others are similar):
1) Safely raise the front of car, with suspension hanging.
2) Remove the wheels.
3) Disconnect the upper end of the swaybar link from the shock/strut bracket. Note that the through-stud for the link’s upper joint (as well as the lower) must be secured using a 16mm to 18mm thin open end wrench. This particular link is 16mm.
4) Remove the strut mounting pinch-bolt. The bolt goes through the strut mounting clamp on the wheel hub/spindle assembly and has a nut on the opposite side (some models do not use nuts, the bolt threads into the clamp).
5) Set the mounting bracket for the ABS sensor wire, brake pad wear sensor wire (left side only) and brake fluid hose aside. Note that other models may have these hoses mounted in a bracket that is affixed to the shock/strut housing. In these cases, remove the wires and hose from the bracket.
6) If the vehicle has adaptive headlights (self-aiming), disconnect the sensor link from the control arm or the sensor bell-crank arm. The sensors may only be present on one side of the vehicle.
7) Place a support or jack under the lower control arm to support the suspension as the upper strut mount nuts are removed.
8) Remove the three 13mm nuts that secure the upper mount to the body (strut tower), under the hood.
9) Gently lower the jack or support, from step-6, and lower the strut assembly. Pull the strut assembly up and out of the hub/spindle. A helper may need to push down on the hub/spindle as you pull the strut upward. If the clamp is too tight for the strut to pull out, use a cold-chisel or large flat-blade screwdriver as a wedge to open the clamp a bit. Tap the wedge into the split in the clamp, widening the clamp, allowing the strut to be removed.
10) Once removed from the hub/spindle clamp, remove the strut assembly from the wheel well area.
11) Install a spring compressor to the spring on the strut assembly. Compress the spring until you can tell that the spring pressure is relieved from the upper and lower spring seats.
10) Remove the upper shock/strut nut that is at the top of the assembly, in the center of the upper mount. To remove the nut, you can use the method shown in the Spring 2007 issue of our Fast Times newsletter, page-7, or you can use an impact gun. DO NOT use an impact gun for re-assembly!
11) Once the nut is removed, disassemble the upper mount, upper spring perch and washers from the shock’s piston rod. Keep track of the various washers and their locations.
12) Pull the spring (and compressor) off of the shock/strut.
13) Assemble the new shock/strut and/or spring.
14) We’re sorry, but the description can not be any longer (youtube requirement). Watch the video and see our tech blog for the full DIY steps at https://blog.bavauto.com/
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All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, https://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).