Install angle grinder disc | Angle grinder safety
Whether you’re grinding metal or cutting tile, an angle grinder can come in handy and is easy to use.Angle grinder price – https://amzn.to/2LlyaiG Sometimes, the disc needs to be replaced. Although replacing an angle-grinder, or side-grinder, disc takes a little bit of know-how, it takes only minutes to complete.
There are a few different ways to change the disc on your side grinder, depending on the tools you have available. The easiest method is to use the spanners included from the factory. However, if you’ve bought your angle grinder second-hand and the spanners are missing, there are other ways to change the disc without the factory-made spanners.
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This is the final part of the series showing the assembly of the Front Bumper, Beadlock wheels and mounting all, including, the body to the chassis.
Assemble the light buckets first and then mount to the bumper, (you can choose which size and style to use as well as the type of stone guard.) Now add the alli panels. This is all slotted to the front of the truck in the same way we did for the rock sliders. You can adjust its position once the body is on.
For the wheels take your time as there are 60 screws! Use a good 1.5mm Hex drive with make this much easier. Make sure to seat the bead in the wheel well, so when tightening the Beadlock in captures the bead. Off up the ring and add screws in a star pattern and tighten just onto the ring, NOT all the way. Once all are in work around again and tighten down. Turn them over and repeat. Make sure you have the right ring on the correct side or they will rub on the steering knuckles.
There are a few body posts with the kit and I’ve shown suggested position for the Honcho body. With the wheel hex add the grub screws before adding to the output drives. When installing the pins in these use the spur to turn the flat and stop the pin falling out. Adding the wheels is simple with flanged nuts and centre caps. Make sure you cut a good straight thread in these when you thread on for the first time — this will make removing and putting back on simpler. When reinstalling make sure you don’t cross thread them, (TIP turn backwards until you feel the thread then turn back to screw them on.)
The body mounts using body clips. The rears are a little difficult due to the spare wheel, just compress the tyre so you can get your hands in.
Now just need a battery and it’s time to test and set up the ESC.
PARTS AT https://www.rc-bitz.com
NEXT series will be various modification, upgrades and hopups for the SCX10 Axial chassis, either on my CF100 Kustom or the Honcho. Please comment suggestions and I will do my best to help e.g. LED’s, scale accessories, winch, dig unit, BEC, wheel weights, star cut foams, Powerstroke ProLine shocks etc.