ASTM A307 Grade A Hex Bolts Hex Cap Screws
Standard: ASME B18.2.1
(Various types of configuration are also available)
Thread Size: 1/4”-4” with various lengths
Grade: ASTM A307 Grade A
Finish: Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, Hot Dip Galvanized, Dacromet, and so on
Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet
Advantage: High Quality and Strict Quality Control, Competitive Price,Timely Delivery; Technical Support, Supply Test Reports
Please feel free to contact us for more details.
ASTM A307
The ASTM A307 specification covers carbon steel bolts and studs ranging from 1/4″ through 4″ diameter. This is your everyday, run of the mill bolt specification often manufactured using A36 round bar. There are three grades A, B, and C* which denote tensile strength, configuration, and application. Refer to the Mechanical Properties Chart for the subtle strength differences within each grade.
| A | Headed bolts, threaded rods and bent bolts intended for general applications. |
|---|---|
| B | Heavy hex bolts and studs intended for flanged joints in piping systems with cast iron flanges. |
| C* | Nonheaded anchor bolts, either bent or straight, intended for structural anchorage purposes. The end of a grade C anchor bolt intended to project from the concrete will be painted green for identification purposes. Permanent marking is a supplemental requirement. *As of August 2007, grade C has been replaced by specification F1554 grade 36. We will continue to supply grade C, if required by the project. |
| Grade | Tensile, ksi | Yield, min, ksi | Elong %, min |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | 60 min | -- | 18 |
| B | 60 - 100 | -- | 18 |
| C* | 58 - 80 | 36 | 23 |
| Element | Grade A | Grade B |
|---|---|---|
| Carbon, max | 0.29% | 0.29% |
| Manganese, max | 1.20% | 1.20% |
| Phosphorus, max | 0.04% | 0.04% |
| Sulfur, max | 0.15% | 0.05% |
| Nuts | Washers | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| A307 Grades A & C* | A307 Grade B | ||
| 1/4 - 1-1/2 | 1-5/8 - 4 | 1/4 - 4 | |
| A563A Hex | A563A Heavy Hex | A563A Heavy Hex | F844 |
Watch more Bathroom Repair videos: https://www.howcast.com/videos/394212-How-to-Fix-a-Toilet-Flange
If your toilet wobbles, has a leak, or if you smell sewer gas in your bathroom, you may have a broken flange.
Step 1: Remove old flange
Remove the old flange by breaking it away from the drainpipe, or closet bend, with a small sledgehammer and a cold chisel. The flange is made of cast iron, so it will break away fairly easily. Once it’s broken, pry it up and out with a pry bar.
Tip
Be careful not to damage the closet bend when you’re removing the flange.
Step 2: Fit new flange over closet bend
Set the new flange over the closet bend and mark any spots on the floor where it doesn’t lay flush. Remove the new flange and use the hammer and chisel again to break away the parts of the floor you marked. If the flange doesn’t sit flush with the floor, the toilet will wobble.
Step 3: Install rubber gasket and brass ring
Fit the rubber gasket between the inside of the flange and the closet bend, tapered edge down. Then fit the brass ring over the rubber gasket, tapping it into place with the hammer.
Step 4: Tighten the flange
Use the socket wrench to tighten the bolts connecting the brass ring to the flange and securing it to the floor.
Tip
Tighten the bolts a little bit at a time to evenly force the rubber gasket downward.
Step 5: Insert closet bolts and wax ring
Insert closet bolts into the slots on either side of the flange. Then press a new wax ring over the flange to prevent water and sewer gas from leaking out.
Step 6: Replace the toilet
Set the toilet on top of the flange, making sure the closet bolts line up with and come through the holes in the base of the toilet. Put a white plastic base, a brass washer, and a hex nut onto each bolt, tightening the nuts with your socket wrench.
Step 7: Attach plastic bolt covers
Snap the plastic covers over the exposed closet bolts, reconnect the water supply, and flush the toilet to inspect it for leaks. Try to wiggle the toilet. If it wobbles, carefully tighten the closet bolts a little more. After making sure the toilet is sturdy, you’ll be able to sit securely without worrying about leaks or sewer gas.
Did You Know?
Toilet paper on a roll wasn’t introduced until 1880.