This is a re-upload from another channel. If any information seems outdated that is why. This video is OLDER than the date shown.
The Ruger SR-22 is basically just a classic Ruger 10/22 inside with a “tactical” aluminum stock system outside. The Ruger 10/22 has been around since the 1960′s and remains one of the most popular rifles in the USA. Love it or hate it, it has a proven track record and is one of the most, if not THE most reliable semi-automatic .22LR rifles of all time!
The Ruger SR-22 does NOT come with any hand-guard rails or sights (edit: it does now as of 2013, mine was bought late 2011 or early 2012 but the price has also gone up too) in the box. There is a rail above the receiver to add optics but if you want to add iron sights you will need at least a small rail on top of the hand-guard to mount the front sight. Because you can add any optics without buying any extra custom rails it’s common to see Ruger SR-22′s with red-dot sights or scoops as this is the easiest way for the owner to get the gun out and shooting it right away. Once you add rails to the hand-guard you can of course use any standard accessories or rail mounted low-profile sights for an AR-15. Retracting back-up sights like the Magpul MBUS sets are also a common addition. The Ruger SR-22 should also take most AR-15 butt-stocks and pistol grips if you wanted to change them as well.
I will admit the Ruger SR-22 may not be the best value in the 10/22 family. Basic 10/22′s start at about $250USD or about $200 less than an SR-22. Add to the fact you will have to buy optics or at least a top rail and a pair of iron sights before you can use the SR-22 and it appears to becomes even worse of a value. But when you factor in the fact that the SR-22 body is all aluminum and it has a slightly heavier barrel than a basic 10/22 it may start to make sense for you.
The alternative would be to buy a basic Ruger 10/22 and than change the stock system out for something like a Tapco stock that can be found for about $100. But here’s the thing to consider. You will still be using the stock 10/22 iron sights and it will not be easy to change out for different sights of your preference. With an SR-22, once you do have the top hand-guard rail you can use many different style sights and they can be changed out in seconds! Finally while the “plastic” composite Tapco stock is strong and lite weight it does not have the same fit and feel as the all aluminum stock on the SR-22. The entire outer body or “receiver” including the hand-guard is all made of machined aluminum. This is not cheap and to buy all the aluminum stock pieces, including the “buffer tube” and butt-stock would actually cost you MORE in the long run if you were to try and convert a 10/22 into an SR-22. Finally as mentioned above, I believe the SR-22 has a slightly heavier barrel than a basic 10/22 and this may help accuracy.
Once you accept the fact the SR-22 doesn’t come with sights or hand-guard rails I can highly recommend it. If you don’t mind paying extra for the all aluminum body you’ll actually discover the rifle is not over priced as some might think. Yes, there are cheaper alternatives but they won’t give you the same feel of quality as the aluminum parts on the SR-22. Either route you take, buying a 10/22 and modifying it or going straight for the SR-22 leaves you with something similar… a very reliable semi-automatic .22LR rifle. These guns are so reliable that no matter what version you pick you can’t really go wrong after all!
There are other alternatives to the Ruger SR-22 for a tactical plinkster. Actually there is the Mossberg 702 tactical plinkster, the Colt M4 22LR (not actually manufactured by colt, nor are the internals actually based on an AR-15) or the awesome Smith and Wesson M&P 15-22. The problem with those alternatives in Canada is that they are all Restricted. No one in Canada wants a Restricted .22LR as that kind of defeats the purpose of having a cheap, fun, plinking rifle. Here in Canada the Ruger SR-22 is one of the only few options in a tactical .22LR that is non-restricted. I guess the main alternative here is the Remington 597 VTR. The Remington is cheaper but in my opinion not as reliable out of the box. They have had many magazine issues over the years and the springs in the bolts guide rails may require adjusting to get the most reliability out of them. They can be reliable once you get a good magazine and the spring tension set correctly. But the Ruger is more reliable out of the box without requiring any fiddling and also has more aftermarket since the 10/22 has been so popular for so long. This not only makes it easy to modify but easy to find replacement parts for repairs in the future. My honest opinion is that in Canada the Ruger SR-22 is the best option. But in the USA you may want to look at all the alternatives esp the S&W M&P 15-22.
Heli Test/training stand. by Dave Herbert.
Parts Required:
1, 24″x 24″ plywood to make base circle.
1, 24 ” long by 2×2″ wide foam insulator strip (cut to 2x2x2″ squares
1, ¼ x 21″ round Ramin Wood sliding rod.
1, ¾” x 24″ threaded galvanized pipe (Needs to be heavy), so the reason.
1, ¾” floor flange with 4, 1 ½”x 3/16″ long nuts and bolts to attach it to Ply base.
1, 3/8″ x 2 ½” Stove bolt (round head, no slots), 2 large 3/8″ washers and 2 3/8″ Nuts
2, 3 ½” long x ¾” wide, light weight compression springs
1, ½” Long x 1/8″ wood screw
1, 5/16 small holed (1/4″) washer for spring contact point on the bottom of the rod.
1, 3″x 8″ x 3/16″ ply or other strong material for helicopter base mounting plate.
2, ¾” Hose clamps for Ramin wood rod.
1, 1″ Hose clamp for galvanized pipe
1, ¼” x 2 ½ ” long Flat Headed shoulder bolt for holding mounting plate to Ramin rod
1, 12″ long mini bungee cord
8, # 60 rubber bands, 4 each side to mount heli landing gear to plate.
1, 12″ long nylon “chalk” string to make safety harness. Loop over heli frame and mounting plate.
Take your time and follow these instructions carefully.
1. Measure for exact center of the 24″x24″ Plywood base and cut out as large a circle as there is wood. Sand and paint or stain as desired.
2. Drill out the center hole to 3/8″ and bolt in the 3/8″ x 2 ½” stove bolt, (round head down towards floor). Use wide washers and nuts on both sides to adjust the length on the bottom to be 1 ½” out from wood, if using 2 x 2 x 2″ foam blocks.
3. Cut foam then mark 8 even locations on the bottom using an analog clock to guide you. Glue them on with silicone or electric glue as shown in the video.
4. Bolt on the ¾” threaded floor flange directly centered over the Stove bolt, making sure it is absolutely centered.
5. Drill 3/16″ hole, 3″ from the bottom of the 3 /4″ pipe and put in same size nut and bolt and lock washer. The springs rest on this.
6. Screw pipe onto flange, hand tight. Leave the plastic thread protector on the top end. Now the base and Guide Pipe are standing vertically and all should be level and be able to wobble slightly.
7. Drop the 2 springs into the pipe.
8. Cut or fabricate your heli mounting plate from 3/16th ” Ply or other. (3″x8″)
9. Find exact center of this plate and drill a 3/8th ” hole. Measure twice, drill once!
10. Cut Ramin wood dowel to 21″ long, put a ¾” small hose clamp on one end, and make it snug. Then carefully drill a ¼” hole down the center of the rod, 2″ deep.
11. On the other end of the rod, drill a small 1/8th ” pilot hole and screw on the 5/16 ” spring contact washer with the small screw.
12. Drop the 1/1/2″ hose clamp onto the guide pipe, leaving it loose.
13. Now using the Flat headed shoulder bolt, put it through the hole in the mounting plate and thread it into the end of your Ramin Wood rod with the hole. Screw it in so it remains 1″ above the plate. The plate should slide up and down freely and have just a bit of slop to give your helicopter a 15 degree lean in any direction.
Now tighten the smaller hose clamp around the end to keep the wood rod from splitting.
14. Place the second ¾” hose clamp on the rod and just snug it up somewhere near the top one near the mounting plate.
15. Put some petroleum jelly on the other end with the washer and drop the rod into the galvanized pipe. It should spring up and down freely. An extra spring may be necessary for a heavier helicopter.
16. Now mount the small bungee cord to the large hose clamp and tightened it about 1 inch below the threaded end at the top. Make sure it is tight.
17. Attach the other end of the bungee cord to the smaller hose clamp on the rod and adjust the length so the heli can raise no more than 8 inches, and tighten that clamp and bungee hook around the Ramin Rod.
18. Make sure it springs up and down freely and the rod cannot come out the end of the guide pipe, which is the bungee cord’s job.
Finished. Any questions, refer to my video Part I.
Good luck.