Alloy Steel 33H 45H Set Screws Grub Screws
Various Material: Alloy, Stainless, Aluminium, Brass are available.
Metric Size: M1.4 – M52, Inch Size: 0# - 2"
Hexagon Socket (Allen), Torx Star, Square, Slotted Drive Types
Flat Point, Cup Point, Cone Point, Dog Point
Other Drive and Point Type are also available acc. to customer requirement
Various Surface Finishes are available
Various Material Grades are available
Please feel free to contact us for more details
The Problem
Carbon rich recirculated exhaust gasses leave deposits within the EGR valve which restrict or damage the EGR valve causing vehicle faults.
The EGR valve on these vehicles is designed to redirect a portion of the vehicles exhaust gases back to the engine through the intake manifold. Carbon rich recirculated exhaust gasses enter the EGR valve before the intake manifold, over time Carbon deposits gather in the EGR valve and can interfere with the operation of the EGR valve flap and can block air flow. Resulting in reduced fuel economy and vehicle performance. Often this build up damages the EGR valves which are expensive to replace. This malfunction of the valve or blocking of the exhaust port causes Detonation (also known as pinging or spark knock) causing misfiring or rough idle. Many examples can be found across the internet showing these EGRs completely blocked up with carbon; significantly reducing airflow to the intake.
Symptoms of the fault
Rough engine running
Misfiring
Decreased throttle response
Loss of power or torque
Smokey engine
Low MPG / decreased MPG
Vehicle stalling at low speeds
Acceleration slow / sluggish
Vehicles affected and compatibility
BMW engines M47 M47N M57 M47N2 M67 M47R
3 series E46
318d 2001-2005
318td 2002-2004
320d 1997- 2005
320cd 2003- 2006
320td 2000-2004
330d 1998-2003
330xd 2000-2003
5 series E39
520d 1999-2003
525d 1999-2003
530d 1997-2003
X5 E53
3.0d 2000-2003
X3 E83
2.0d 2003-2006
E38 7 Series
730d 1997-2001
740d 1998-2001
E65 7 Series
740d 2001-2005
Rover 75 MG ZT 2001-2005
Land Rover Freelander TD4 2001-2006
Land Rover Range Rover TD6 2002-2006
This item is not compatible with quick release style hoses.
Vehicles which utilise a vacuum operated EGR will not show a fault code when replaced with our EGR blank. Vehicles with an electronically operated EGR will show a fault code which will need to be mapped out. This is the same for all suppliers of EGR blanks whether stated or not.
This item is for diesel vehicles only not for petrol vehicles.
Associated part numbers:
11717785452, 11717804378, 7785452, 7804378, 11717793484, LR005791, WAV000040, 7.28138.00.0, 7.28138.02.0, 7.28264.00.0, 7.28264.06.0, 555229, 14406, 14433, EGR251, EGR258, ERV190, ERV208, Pierburg.
Part numbers are for guidance only, please inspect your EGR to ensure you are purchasing the correct blank.
Our solution
Our kit allows easy replacement of the EGR valve with our improved design part which stops any recirculated exhaust gases entering the intake manifold. Resolving vehicle faults and stopping carbon build ups in future.
Install our completely Stainless Steel EGR blank and eliminate build up in the intake manifold. This allows the engine to breath better which can improve vehicle performance and fuel efficiency. Our EGR blanking kit stops these recirculated exhaust gases entering the intake manifold, eliminating the risk of future build ups.
Our kit is the most comprehensive available including all components required to delete the EGR valve and will fit in the same way as the OEM part. You will receive:
1x Stainless steel EGR tube, precision machined and all constructed from stainless steel, featuring a substantial bead to ensure an air tight seal with the intercooler hose.
4x Stainless steel EGR to intake manifold bolts.
1x Intake manifold to EGR rubber gasket.
1X vacuum pipe blanking plug with cable tie to secure.
2x Stainless steel EGR cooler blanks to allow you to blank off the EGR cooler if installed on your vehicle.
1X Exhaust manifold blank with Cemjo high temperature gasket and fasteners allowing you to remove the EGR to Exhaust manifold flexible tube that often blocks or splits.
Our kit is top of the range and the most comprehensive kit available. Check out our instructions and video to see how our kit allows you to successfully eliminate the EGR valve on your vehicle.
Possible advantages of EGR deleting:
Turbo can spool up quicker and at lower revs resulting in less turbo lag.
Prevents carbon build-up inside intake manifold and ports.
Smoother pick up from idle, engine running and better fuel economy.
Increases in power and / or torque which slowly fades as carbon builds up.
Improved fuel consumption / MPG.
You will receive
1x Stainless steel EGR delete tube
4x Stainless steel EGR delete tube mounting bolts
1x Stainless steel exhaust manifold to egr pipe blank
1x High temp CEMJO exhaust manifold blank gasket
2X Exhaust manifold blank bolts with locking washers
2X Stainless steel EGR cooler blanking plates
1X Intake manifold to EGR gasket
1X Vacuum tube plug with cable tie
This is a homemade wood lathe project. It’s made up of a headstock, drive motor, carriage, tailstock, and bed. The lathe supports a work piece up to 8” diameter and up to 18” long, and so maybe that is classified as a mini-lathe. I tried to make the mini-lathe as small and lightweight as possible without making the design and build overly complicated.
The objective was to design it inexpensive to see if I like using wood lathes. The project cost me about 20 dollars for the bearings & the hardware since all the wood used is scrap and the motor is shared with my drill press. It only takes about 5minutes to swap the motor back and forth between the lathe and drill press.
The bed is cut from a scrap piece of 2×6 fir that is screwed down at each corner to the workbench. And the bed can be extended for longer work pieces.
The tailstock slides along a track in the bed and is secured by a nut knob.
Both the tailstock and the headstock use two inexpensive flange bearings that are mounted with four bolts. ½” diameter threaded bolts are used for the axels. The inside flange bearing is used to rotationally support the work piece, the outside flange bearing is used to constrain side to side movement.
The position of the headstock and tailstock axels can be adjusted by moving the flange bearing position so that both axels are properly aligned.
Both axels are sharpened to point to hold the work piece in place.
The tailstock uses a live center meaning the axel rotates along with the work piece. This is why there is two flange bearing in the tailstock. A dead center tailstock is easier to make but doesn’t rotate and so there will be constant friction between the work piece and a dead center.
The live center clamps down on the work piece by tightening this nut. The other 3 nuts are tightened to lock the axel to the outside flange thrust bearing.
This is the carriage assembly for supporting chisels. There’s a nut knob for adjusting in or out, and then another nut knob for pivoting or up/down adjustment. The base of the carriage is solid oak making the carriage very sturdy.
There is a 1 ½ inch wide by 1/8” thick steel bar that’s screwed into the carriage here that protects the carriage from damage caused by wood chisel catches.
The headstock axel uses a spur center currently. It’s a ½” coupler nut that has points cut in it with a dremil. The points bite into the work piece preventing it from free spinning. In the future I’ll be making different mount methods such as a face place, and chucks for both the headstock and tailstock. And also I’m going to try to make a duplicator carriage assembly.
The headstock is enclosed except for this area in the back in case the drive belt breaks or comes loose. Same as with the tailstock there’s a nut knob securing the headstock and two flange bearings. As a note the headstock can be slide back and forth and also even rotated 180degrees if for example later turning a larger diameter work piece off the edge of the workbench.
There’s a single plywood pulley for drive belt and so there’s no adjustment on the headstock.
The motor is 1700rpm & 2/3 horsepower so it has plenty of power and won’t overheat like if using a hand drill or other small motor. There’s several pulley settings where I can get about 800 to 2500 rpm at the work piece.
I didn’t want to wear out the drill press drive belt so I got one for a dollar at a garage sale but it’s too long to ideally mount the motor direct to the head stock. So I made a simple mount that screws to the workbench. The can be moved front to back to tension the belt and side to side for the different pulley options. Then bolts holding the mount retightened.
If any questions or improvements for this project just let me know. And if you liked the video, feel free comment, like & subscribe to my channel for more.