Very sorry for the camera sound, it was the first time I used the Gopro so I guess the case picked up the noise when the camera was moved. Anyways in short;
Tools:
- 6mm hex (bolt for bar to arm)
- 8mm hex (bolt for arm to strut plate)
- 13mm socket (strut tower/plate nuts)
- Ratchet
- Ratchet extension (not necessary)
- Torque wrench
- 13mm wrench (for positive terminal)
- Philips screwdriver (for positive terminal housing/hood sensor)
1. Pull up the rubber gasket by the positive terminal. Use the screwdriver to remove the plastic screw/clip holding in the plastic housing to the frame. Pull up on the hood switch and it will pop out. Use the 13mm wrench to remove the nut off the positive terminal and place it all to the side.
2. Remove the 6 13mm nuts from the strut towers
3. Place both strut plates down onto the strut towers and place 6x washers onto the threads and 6x nuts down but do not tighten fully
4. Place the strut bar arms onto the plates with the bar installed to the arms to adjust final placement of everything
5. When the plates are down onto the towers, the arms are lined up with the bar properly tighten down snug the outermost (to the fender) strut tower nuts
6. Remove the strut arms/strut bar and snug in the last remaining nut onto the plate and using the torque wrench tighten them down to 18 ft/lbs
7. Place back on the arms and the strut bar itself to the plates and snug down the 8mm arm bolts and torque to 20 ft/lbs or more if you desire
8. Snug down the 6mm bolts on the strut bar and torque to the same specs as above
9. Enjoy your engine bay eye candy which will help prevent your towers from mushrooming more like on my car.
Martin Brundle explains everything about the wheel.